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LIFE ON THE NILE 

IN A DAHABEEH 

AND 

EXCURSIONS ON SHORE 

BETWEEN CAIRO AND ASSOUAN 

ALSO 

A TOUR IN SYRIA AND PALESTINE 

IN 1866-67 



BY 



-z- 



^0 WILLIAM WILKINS WARREN 



THIRD EDIT 10 




BOSTON 

LEE AND SHEPARD, PUBLISHERS 

NEW YORK: CHARLES T. DILLINGHAM 

188^ 



Copyright, 1S8S, 

By Lee and Shepard. 






University Press : 
John Wilson and Son, Cambridge. 



ADVERTISEMENT BY THE PUBLISHERS 

TO THE THIRD EDITION. 



Frequent inquiries having been made of the 
Author for his " Life on the Nile," as a guide in 
making a voyage on that famous river, and the 
second edition having been entirely distributed gra- 
tuitously by American bankers in Paris, according 
to his instructions, he has consented to have a third 
edition printed and published in the United States, 
and placed on sale, that those persons contemplat- 
ing making a Nile voyage, or taking an interest in 
reading a brief and concise description of one, with 
its necessary preparations, may have an opportunity 
of obtaining copies. 

The book has never been on sale before, nor 
could it be obtained, except from an American 



IV ADVERTISEMENT BY THE PUBLISHERS. 

banker in Paris, some friend, or the Author him- 
self. 

Egypt has again come prominently before the 
world in her late struggle against foreign influ- 
ence and intervention. English domination will 
not probably change materially, if at all, the man- 
ner of making a voyage on the Nile in a Dahabeeh. 
The influence and establishment of courts for for- 
eigners before the late war, amply protected the 
traveller, and the occupation or withdrawal of the 
British troops will make no difference in this 
respect, at least to Americans visiting Egypt for 
their pleasure, who have always been welcomed 
and kindly treated by all classes of natives and 
of&cials with whom they have come in contact. 

The lapse of time since the Author and his party 
enjoyed their own experience will not essentially, 
it is believed, change the methods of making the 
voyage, though prices may have been increased, 
and a better class of boats introduced. Customs, 
habits, and manners of the natives in Egypt, as to 
a Nile voyage, undergo but little change, even in a 
generation. 

From among; numerous commendations of this 



ADVERTISEMENT BY THE PUBLISHERS. V 

guidebook which have been received by the Author 
in letters from strangers to himself, v^^e make by 
his permission the following extracts, — 

John Taylor Johnstone, Esq., Ex-President of 
the Central Railroad of New Jersey, in a letter 
from New York dated July 5th, 1870, stating his 
experience of a Nile voyage, writes : " Having made 
much use of your little volume in a recent tour 
up the Nile and through the East, I feel as if 1 
ought to express my obligations to you for the 
assistance derived from the same. An attentive 
perusal of it was the foundation laid for the trip, 
and on that I built. The book accompanied us, 
and was frequently referred to, and found to con- 
tain very much that was reliable, and in a most 
accessible form. The thanks of our party of five 
were unanimously voted to you, and I hasten to 
convey them before our pleasant memories are ob- 
scured by the rapidly occurring events of a busy 
American life. ... I intended to notify you of 
any errors we found in the book, but found nothing. 
Things don't change fast in that region." 

William Faxon, Esq., of Hartford, writes as fol- 
lows ; " Permit me to express my obligations for 



VI ADVERTISEMENT BY THE PUBLISHERS. 

your kindness in leaving with the bankers in Paris, 
for gratuitous distribution, copies of your ' Life on 
the Nile,' &c., which contained just the information 
I was in search of, and which I am not aware I 
could have elsewhere procured. It was of great 
value to me." 

J. A. Peters, Esq., writing from Cohasset to a 
friend, says : " The book gave us precisely the 
information we were anxious to possess." 

LEE AND SHEPARD. 
Boston, February, 1883. 



PREFACE 

TO THE SECOND EDITION. 



The First Edition of this little guide has been 
entirely distributed among those persons going up 
the Nile in Dahabeehs. 

Many — some of them entire strangers to the 
Author — having expressed an appreciation of its 
usefulness, and it still being called for by others 
desirous of trying "Boat Life in Egypt," this Second 
Edition has been ordered from the printers at Leip- 
sic for gratuitous distribution, as before, by the 
American bankers in Paris, among those who pro- 
pose to make the trip in a Dahab^eh. 

Time and circumstances will not allow a revision 
or alteration of these Letters as they first appeared ; 
but imperfect as they are, it is hoped they may be 
of practical value to those for whom they were in- 
tended. Six years have elapsed since the fresh ex- 



Vlll PREFACE TO THE SECOND EDITION. 

perience of the Author was written ; but as changes 
are not many in Egypt or the Holy Land, it is 
believed there are none of sufficient consequence to 
render these pages less useful to the traveller than 
heretofore, in assisting him to enjoy Life on the 
Nile. 



WM. W. WARREN. 



Boston, 25 Kilby Street. 
May, 1873. 



PEEFATORY REMARKS. 



The following Record of a Nile Voyage is a re- 
production, with some alterations, of a series of 
Letters written on board a Dahabeeh, and published 
in the Boston Traveller. 

Many friends, and others personally known to 
me, about to visit Egypt, having expressed a desire 
to obtain a complete number of copies which it was 
found impossible to supply, and several requests 
made for a republication of them, I have had the 
complete series reprinted in this form for gratuitous 
distribution, and to them have added a transcript 
from my Journal of a subsequent tour in Syria and 
Palestine, with some additions in an Appendix. 

These Letters were written in a hurried and im- 
perfect manner, owing to the many occupations 



PREFATORY REMARKS. 



and enjoyments of the voyage. A practical use to 
others being the principal object of this little work, 
it is hoped its imperfections may be overlooked. 



Paris, October, 1867. 



WM. W. WARREN. 






■^-"f^^jH^^, 






LETTER I. 

PRELIMINABY. WHEN TO VISIT EGYPT. THE EXPENSE. 

STEAMERS. LIFE ON A DAHABEEH. 

The experience of a late date of one's travel in Egypt, 
and voyage up the l^ile, I found to be so valuable and 
rarely met with in a detailed form, that I am impelled to 
give my own, fresh from the banks of the great river, 
with a view at least of being of some little service to 
those who intend making a winter's sojourn either for 
pleasure, health, or instruction, in this wondrous region. 
The information mostly needed is that which pertains 
to the preparation for, and manner, cost, and time of 
carrying through intelligently and successfully all the 
necessary details of a Nile voyage. There are several 
well-known guide-books and excellent popular works on 
Egypt, but they are nearly all about a decade old. 
Changes in the prices and comforts of a voyage have 
taken place in that time ; in the former, owing to the 
extensive and profitable cultivation of cotton during the 
American Rebellion, which expanded prices and unsettled 
values in Egypt. The comforts have increased, there 
being now a better class and choice of boats. 

I may be pardoned if, in the use of many dry details, I 
shall interweave in my letters, as our voyage progresses, 

1 



Z LETTER I. 

descriptive matter which, while it repeats the impressions 
of most of others who have of late years preceded me in 
the land of the Pharaohs, will interest, I trust, some 
readers. If the pictxire I draw should induce any of my 
countrymen or women to try two or three months of a 
winter here, and my notes should be of any service to 
them, I shall feel well repaid for this contribution. 

Two of the books alluded to above are the well-known 
" Murray's Handbook for Egypt," last edition published 
in 1858, and aboiit exhausted (a new edition has been 
issued in 1867 since our voyage commenced), and "The 
Austrian Lloyd's Handbook for Hgypt," published in 
Trieste, in German, French, and English, excellent, being 
an epitome of other guides and works up to 1858. With 
the necessary corrections and additions incident to the 
changes since that period, it would serve the purpose 
better than any I know of It should be remarked, how- 
ever, that it was published entirely in the interest of that 
great line of steamers, the Austrian Lloyd's, the rivals to 
some extent for passengers in the Mediteri'anean, to the 
line of the Messageries Imperiales. The other guide- 
books, published in English, are "Harper's" and " Brad- 
shaw." These two last, being more general, and not con- 
fined to Egypt, do not contain sufficient for the traveller's 
purpose. " Prime's Boat-Life in Egypt and Nubia," pub- 
lished in London and New York, 1857, is a most charm- 
ing book, as is also " The Crescent and the Cross," by 
Elliot Warburton, published in 1850. "Russel's Ancient 
and Modern Egypt " and " Wilkinson's Ancient Egyp- 
tians" should not be forgotten in the traveller's budget. 

The best time for seeing this country depends much 



PRELIMINARY. WHEN TO VISIT EGYPT. 6 

on circumstances, but, under any, should be from 1st 
October (when the Nile recedes from its full height) to 
1st April, when it ^ets too low, and contrary winds 
set in. The usual time is between the 1st of November 
and the 1st of March. If the traveller is an invalid, 
I should advise him not to postpone the commence- 
ment of a three months' voyage to Second Cataract 
beyond middle of November, so as to get far south 
enough to be beyond reach of the cool nights of Decem- 
ber and January in Lower Egypt, which in a Nile boat 
reduce the temperature often as low as 50 degrees 
toward morning till sunrise. The mei'cury rapidly rises 
by noon to 65° or 70°, where it remains till sunset, and 
slowly declines. There are no conveniences for stoves 
inside, but foot-warmers filled with hot water, and warm 
robes for an hour or two in the morning or very late in 
the evening will generally answer all purposes. A stove 
or vessel to burn coals would be a nuisance, with exces- 
sive heat, gas, and smoke. Nearly every one going to 
Egypt in a Dahaheeh spends most of his time on the Nile, 
either for health or pleasure, varying from two to four 
months. A trip to Syria and Palestine may easily be 
connected with and follow the one here, in which case it 
ought not to be undertaken by an invalid too soon, as 
the temperature in passing the mountains would be too 
low. If, therefore, the two trips should be undertaken 
in connection bi/ an invalid, he should by 15th November 
start on the voyage to Second Cataract, allowing 25 days 
for stoppages, which would occupy about 3 months. If 
only a voyage to the First Cataract is undertaken, I 
would advise to start not later than the 1st of December, 



4: LETTER I. 

and have the option of a certain number of days in addi- 
tion to those specified in the contract, for stopping in the 
delicious climate of Upper Egypt, by agreeing to pay a 
certain price per diem. 

Those seeking pleasure only, can start for the First 
Cataract much later, according to their time and inclina- 
tion. Most of the fleet in 1866 left from December 20th 
to January 10th. The trip to Syria, if made from Alex- 
andria, instead of across the desert, should be commenced 
from 1st to the 15th of March, and will consume from 
30 to 40 days. 

If that journey be omitted, the trip to Egypt may be 
made at a later date, especially if the voyage up the 
Nile should be abridged to the First Cataract. This is 
situated at Assouan, on the boundary between Upper 
Egypt and Nubia, and such a voyage embraces most of 
the interesting objects on the river for 578 miles above 
Cairo. Taking 20 days for stoppages, it can easily be 
accomplished in from 50 to 60 days. At the Second 
Cataract, 220 miles fui'ther up, the traveller will witness 
the great ruin of Aboo-Simbel, said to be second only in 
grandeur to the Theban ruins. 

The expense of living in Cairo or on a Nile boat is 
from 75 to 100 per cent greater than that laid down in 
the old guide-books. The hotels in Cairo now charge 
$4 a day, and other things in proportion. A voyage up 
the Nile for five or six persons will cost $6 to $7 a 
day, and for three or four about .f 9 each. This includes 
the hire of boat, crew, captain, steersman, cook, boy, and 
an additional cook and waiters for the party ; besides 
all provisions, except wines. It embraces also the wages 



THE EXPENSE. 

of the dragoman, and all the hire of donkeys, saddles, 
guides, guards, and even the backsheesh or gifts to all per- 
sons, including that to the crew, captain, sei'vants, &c. It 
is customary to put this into the contract with the drago- 
man, who provides the whole at a stated price by the 
month or the trip. As the cost of the boat, with her 
captain, crew, &c., and the dragoman, amounts to nearly 
as much for two or three as for a greater number of trav- 
ellers, it follows that the larger the number the less the 
expense to each one. The Nile boats for such parties are 
called Dahabeehs, varying in length from 70 to 90 feet 
and 13 to 15 broad, carrying a crew of from 10 to 14 to 
manage sails, row, tow, or push the boat. They are 
handsomely furnished with divans, tables, chairs, drapery, 
mirrors, pictures, bedding, linen, and a complete assort- 
ment of kitchen and table ware, silver, &c. They are 
constructed to carry from two to four persons each, com- 
fortably, though there are some now that will equally 
accommodate six to eight. The largest or heaviest cannot 
go over the First Cataract, which is nothing more than a 
succession of rapids, through which the boats are forced 
by means of ropes used by large gangs of men employed 
there for that purpose. 

As much of the pleasure of a Nile voyage depends 
upon the dispositions and harmony of the minds of those 
composing a family thus brought and held together for 
two or three months, it is well to form parties before com- 
ing to Egypt, but it is sometimes difficult among so few 
visitors to select just such companions as are most desira-. 
ble ; besides, if a party is arranged before arrival, an early 
selection of a dragoman and boat according to its mimber 
can be made. 



b LETTER I. 

It is proper to mention that Egyptian passenger 
steamers now make the trip of the Nile, from Cairo to 
Assouan and back, in twenty days, giving brief stoppages 
at certain places that they choose to fix upon. The cost 
is about £42 the trip, including meals. They are veiy 
comfortable, and are fitted up to accommodate about 
forty first-class passengers. Only those take them who 
wish to economize either time or money, for they do not 
allow time enough for the requisite sight-seeing, nor pro- 
vide sufficient donkeys, guides, saddles, &c. 

The charm of the life on a Nile boat is not to be met 
with in a steamer, or in any other way of locomotion. It 
consists of the traveller being a perfect monarch on his 
Dahabeeh, master of her movements, stopping when and 
where he pleases, with servants to do his bidding. If he 
is fond of sporting, myriads of wild fowl abound along 
the banks of the river. His boat has besides all the com- 
forts of a hotel, professed cooks that excite his wonder by 
the variety and quality of the dishes, served up by well- 
trained and painstaking servants. The air is balsamic, 
the skies clear, such as are only experienced in Egypt ; the 
climate a perpetual spring, without a drop of rain, while 
the insensible gliding of the boat along the stream invites 
to charming recreations in writing, drawing, reading, mu- 
sic, games, «tc. Such a home on the Nile, with its serene 
cheerfulness and freedom from all restraint, has a charm 
and novelty for its season without satiety. Cut off as it 
were from the world (except now and then meeting a 
friend afloat), business, politics, cares of all kinds, and 
everything but country and friends left behind, are for- 
gotten in the slow moving of the panorama of a world so 



LIFE ON A DAHABEEH. 7 

full of wonder, containing the monuments of an age and 
people challenging the admiration of every beholder. 

The manner of preparing for and carrying out a Nile 
voyage, at the present time, will be developed in the 
course of the next letter. 



LETTER II. 

THE PARTY. — PREPARATIONS. VOYAGE TO AND ARRIVAL 

AT ALEXANDRIA. OUR DRAGOMAN. SELECTION OF BOAT 

AT CAIRO. PREPARATIONS FOR THE VOYAGE. SIGHT- 
SEEING. 

Our party, consisting of Mr. and Mrs. C. H. L., Doctor 
H. R., and his sister, Miss E. R., together with myself 
and wife, all of Boston, was arranged in Paris shortly 
after our meeting together in that city towards the last 
of October, 1866. Eleven years before, the same party 
had travelled together in Italy, and enjoyed with each 
other the gondolas in the fair city of Venice. I also had, 
with the Doctor, just afterwards, made a pilgrimage to 
the East as far as the Black Sea, during the close of the 
Crimean war. Our mutual desires were to visit Egypt 
and the Holy Land together. Most of us had held this 
trip in reserve as the climax of our desires for travelling, 
the ultima Thule of our travels. Therefore, when meeting 
and receiving an invitation to join our old friends in this 
trip, I gladly postponed a winter in Algiers to be of a 
party of well-tried and congenial companions, so essential 
to the happiness and enjoyment of travelling. The only 
anticipated drawback was Mrs. W.'s aversion to 3000 



THE PARTY. PREPARATIONS. 9 

miles more of sea travel, such a distance from Paris and 
home, and fearful forebodings of the pests of Europe, to 
be found perhaps multiplied like the plagues of Egypt in 
Pharaoh's time. I may say in advance that those pests 
have diminished regularly since leaving the Mediter- 
ranean, going South ; and in this respect, as well as in 
many others, we have been happily disappointed. 

Having made preparations in Paris in the purchase 
of proper clothing, guide-books, maps, field-glasses, col- 
ored eye-glasses with wire protectors for the hot sun 
and desert sands of Egypt, medicines, pistols, two guns 
and sporting equipments, &c., we w^ent to Marseilles to 
embark for Alexandria in the steamer " Moeris," having 
engaged our passages and state-rooms in her a month 
previous at the bureau of the Messageries Imperiales. 
Before leaving, we had an American flag and our private 
signal streamer made for us. The latter was 30 feet 
long, red, white, and blue, with the initials of our party, 
R. W. L., and with three stars in a blue union. We 
supplied ourselves with a large quantity of ammunition 
fitted for our guns, suitable for the great variety and 
quantity of the feathered tribe abounding on the Nile, 
and some potted oysters, tomatoes, salmon, mince-meat 
for pies, all put up in America, and only found at John 
S. Martin's ship supply establishment at Marseilles. All 
other articles can be found at Alexandria or Cairo, which 
the dragoman for the Nile voyage furnishes by contract. 

The steamer left Nov. 29th, at the appointed time, 
with about forty first and as many second-class passen- 
gers. We found her very comfortable, with a large 
saloon on deck, more capacious than any of the Cunard 



10 LETTER ir. 

steamers, there being no outside passage around it, the 
saloon and promenade deck taking up the whole width of 
the ship. Below there were state-rooms for 150 first and 
second-class passengers. She was about 3000 tons, and 
four hundred horse power, and had, like others of the 
line, a greater speed than the English. The style of 
cooking and service on board was French. The "Peninsu- 
lar and Oriental" line, however, has fine first-class steamers, 
and probably equally good in many respects. They stop 
at Malta, the French at Messina. The Italian line be- 
tween Brindisi on the Adriatic, and Alexandria, saving 
nearly half the sea travel, is well spoken of. In fact all 
these lines have some advantages and disadvantages, but 
neither is to be condemned as unworthy of patronage. 

After a somewhat rough passage of five and a half 
days, during which we touched for an hour at Messina, 
we arrived at Alexandria. Here we were boarded by 
numerous dragomans, guides, porters, boatmen, and others 
— rendering the deck a perfect Babel of tongues, among 
which that of the noisy Arabic prevailed. We engaged 
the services of one of the former, named Ahmed Rama- 
dan, to take us ashore and get our effects through the 
custom-house to the hotel. We found the Hotel Abbatt 
to be the best, though the Peninsular and Oriental is well 
recommended. I cannot say as much for the H6tel 
d'Europe. I shall not attempt to describe the novelties 
of this ancient mai't of commerce, founded by Alexander 
the Great, once the greatest commercial city in the world, 
and now the most thriving of Oriental ones. Pompey's 
Pillar and Cleopatra's Needle look down on a harbor filled 
with a hundred steamers, and from six to eight hundred 



ALEXANDRIA. — OUR DRAGOMAN. 1 1 

sail of vessels, of all sizes and nationalities. The streets 
swarm with Egyptians, Arabs, Syrians, Tm'ks, and Greeks, 
in their native costume, with a sprinkling of Europeans, 
among which Italians prevail in numbers. Thousands 
of the little Egyptian donkeys, — on which are mounted, 
men, women, and children, — strings of camels, buffaloes 
harnessed to wagons, fine Arabian hoi'ses, — ridden by the 
military or government officers, — handsome European 
turn-outs, all sorts of street vendors, jugglers, monkey 
shows, snake-charmers, engage the wondering eyes of new 
comers, while they are beset by dragomans, guides, 
donkey-boys, porters, and beggars enough to drive one to 
desperation, and a rattan has to be freely used to get rid 
of some of the last-named pests of Egypt. We were 
harassed by dragomans at our hotel from morning till 
night, all anxious to have an opportunity to show their 
recommendations and obtain a chance for a tender of 
price for a Dahabeeh, or pleasure-boat, to the Cataract 
and back, either at a stated sum for the trip, or by the 
month, they furnishing everything even to paying beggars 
and all backsheesh during the voyage. 

Ahmed Ramadan, a young Egyptian dragoman, served 
us satisfactorily a couple of days as guide, and our first 
object was to look at the boats and get posted up be- 
foi'e going to Cairo, where there are a much greater num- 
ber and better class to choose from ; besides, the voyage 
generally commences from that city. Two days were de- 
voted to examination of boats and the merits of several 
dragomans, — Egyptian, Greek, Maltese, and Nubian. We 
were more favorably inclined to taking an Egyptian, as 
he comes in contact with his own countrymen, and gets 



12 LETTER II. 

along better with them, especially the captain, crew, and 
servants of the Dahabeeh, who are geuei'ally Egyptians or 
Nubians. Being favorably impressed with Mohamed El 
Adli of Alexandria, a dragoman of long experience on the 
Nile and in Syria, with excellent recommendations, and 
of business-like character, we assented to his accompany- 
ing us to Cairo, conditionally, where we should make our 
final selection of dragoman and boat. We had previously 
got his price to take us in a first-class boat, such as we 
might select either in Alexandria or Cairo, to the Eirst 
Cataract on the border of Nubia, and back to Cairo, giving 
us twenty days of stoppages for sight-seeing and sporting. 

While at Alexandria, we called on our Consul-General, 
Hon. Charles Hale, who returned our visit, and gave us 
some valuable information, and kindly lent us quite a 
collection of books. We visited the excellent establish- 
ment of Ebenezer Thomas, to select English provisions 
and stores. 

On our arrival at Cairo, in 3^ hours by quick ti'ain, we 
found carriages and porters ready to convey us and the 
luggage to any of the hotels. The heavy parcels have to 
be taken on trucks, and it is best to have stores come by 
merchandise train. The Hotel des Ambassadeurs was 
chosen by the recommendation of a friend. It is small, 
but neatly kept, has an excellent table d'hote, and is situ- 
ated on the Usbekeeh. A new one was being built, which 
is greatly needed. The examination of boats was our first 
object, in order to secure the best one, there having been 
only three or four engaged. El Adli took us directly to 
the best, which we had heard of in Alexandria. Our trip 
being only to the First Cataract, and party large, we only 



SELECTION OP BOAT. 13 

examined the largest of the Dahabeehs. The greater 
number of a size required to pass the Second Cataract, 
accommodating two to four persons, were omitted, and out 
of a dozen of the largest and best fitted up boats, we had 
no ditficulty in unanimously choosing the " Gazelle " as 
the best. She was built of iron, of great breadth of beam, 
with a large saloon, four state-rooms, and a small saloon 
in the stern, — the whole occupying about one half the 
length of the boat. She was very neatly painted and 
decorated, perfectly clean, very nicely furnished with 
divans, tables, chairs, large French mirrors, pictures, rich 
carpets, muslin curtains, drapery, and an excellent and 
full supply of dinner and kitchen ware, bed and table 
linen, silver ware, hanging and centre lamps, handsome 
plated candlesticks, &c. The closets, bath-room, water- 
filterer, pantry, and lastly, the kitchen on the bow of the 
boat, were all in excellent order. The quarter-deck was 
well supplied with divans, tables, chairs, &c. We found 
her measurement to be 75 feet in length by 16 1-2 feet 
broad, the saloon 14 by 13 1-2, state-rooms 7 by 6 and 
6 1-2 by 5 feet, after-saloon nearly 12 feet square. She 
draws about 33 inches water, has the cabins sunk 28 inches 
below deck, the height of which is 6 1-2 feet. The gun- 
wale is 10 inches above deck and 28 inches out of water. 
She carries on a mast stepped well forward a large lateen 
sail, extending on a spar seventy-five feet in length, which 
is lashed to the head of the mast, and shifted forward of 
it. A smaller mast is stepped entirely aft of the helm or 
tiller, on which a similar sail, less than half the size 
of the foresail, is lashed in the same manner, and the 
sheet run throxigh a projecting boom in the stern. She 



14 LETTER II. 

has 10 oars, and a crew consisting of the captain, 10 men, 
steersman, cook, and boy. There were other boats, larger 
and more profuse in gilding, satin, damask, &c., but none 
so pleasant and homelike as the "Gazelle." Time has 
proved our choice to have been a wise one, and our boat is 
acknowledged to be the best, and commands a higher price 
than any other. Some of the finest are the " Victoria," 
"Falcon," "Cleopatra," "Nightingale," "Zarifa," "Alice," 
"Memphis," "Marie Louise," and "Antoinette." 

On the third day after our arrival. El Adli, whom we had 
decided to take at his offer, secured the " Gazelle " at a 
deduction fi'om the asking price, £250 for the trip, and 
the contract was drawn up and signed in duplicate before 
the American Consul, as customary. Preparations were 
made to supply two months' provisions and various things 
necessary for the voyage. A list of all the usual things 
was made out ; we had only to say what we wanted in 
addition, and our dragoman was ready to furnish them, 
giving us no trouble about the matter. Most of his sup- 
plies he purchased in Cairo, but had to return to Alexan- 
dria, five hours' transit by railroad, for English butter 
and a few other articles. 

During the nine days after the contract was signed that 
we remained at our Hotel des Ambassadeurs, we were 
partly employed in sight-seeing in this great and truly 
Oriental city, and the rest of our spare time was spent in 
purchasing and arranging for our new home on the Nile for 
two months. A thirty-foot pennant being considered too 
short for our " Queen of the fleet " by our ambitious El 
Adli, we had another made for our great foresail peak, 
sixty feet in length, with two triangles, — one red, the 



PREPARATIONS FOR THE VOYAGE. 15 

other white, in the form of a star, on a blue ground in 
the Union, also a Union Jack for our small boat. Sixty- 
four tin and glass lanterns, of different colors, were made 
for illuminations. Two brass ones, with colored glass 
globes, to hoist at the peaks, together with halyards, had 
to be purchased, the boat not having such. Suitable 
clothing for riding donkeys, hats with patent ventilators 
and muslin covers, white parasols to guard against the 
hot Egyptian sun, and various little articles from the 
bazaars, were almost daily found wanting and purchased. 
Last, but not least, we had to make a visit to our bankers, 
Tod, Rathbon, & Co., for funds to advance money, as per 
contract, to our dragoman, and for small silver Egyptian 
money to use up the river, and especially copper fractional 
parts of the piastre, absolutely necessary, there beiiig 
none to be obtained in Upper Egypt, and so scarce in 
Cairo as to command a premium of 40 per cent. 

Within two weeks from our engaging the "Gazelle," 
seven Dahabeehs were taken, five by Americans, the others 
by French and Euglish. The whole number will probably 
not exceed this season more than 30, — a small fleet in 
comparison to the number on the Nile six years ago, 
when there were on Christmas Day at Thebes 87 boats 
of different nations, and as many more on the river. 
The American war, high prices in Egypt, and particularly 
the cholera, attended with the vexatious quarantine, has 
greatly reduced travelling here, and the Dahabeehs have 
been used for freight boats. This renders them very 
filthy, and great care should be hadj if one is fitted up 
again for passengers, to have them sunk, and thoroughly 
renovated, painted, and varnished. There are now no 



16 LETTER II. 

more than about eight regular passenger boats in Alexan- 
dria, and thirty in Cairo. About a dozen are now being 
built of iron and wood for next season, when, if no cholera 
visits Egypt, a great influx of travellers is expected. But 
Americans should be careful not to pay asking prices, 
which are already higher than the cost of labor and 
boats warrants. 

While waiting for our boat to be in readiness, we visited 
the Shoobra Gardens, and Marble Palace of Mehemet 
Ali, the Citadel, Palace of the Pasha, the new alabaster 
mosque, the mosque of Sultan Hassan and Tooloon, Old 
Cairo, Island of P^hoda, the Garden of Ibrahim Pasha, the 
Kilometer for measuring the rise and fall of the Nile, 
the Copt (Christian) and Jews' quarters, Greek Convent; 
the sepulchre of Mehemet Ali's family. Tombs of the Mam- 
looks, and the Turkish and Egyptian Bazaars, in addition 
to the European. 

In another letter I propose to give a copy of our con- 
tract, inventory of boat, her outfit and provisions, which 
from their novelty will not only be interesting, but may 
be of service. 






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LETTEE III. 

CONTRACT WITH DRAGOMAN. EXPLANATIONS. INVEN- 
TORY OP THE "gazelle." 

This letter will, I fear, be a very dry and uninteresting 
one ; but to some it may prove of advantage to know the 
form and substance of a contract with a Dragoman for a 
Nile voyage on a Dahabeeh. Our contract, verbatim, is 
as follows : — 

"This Indenture, of two parts, between C. H. L., W. "W. 
W., and H. R., of Boston, U. S. A., of the first part, and 
Mohamed El Adli, of Alexandria, Egypt, Dragoman, of 
the second part, wituesseth : 

" That in consideration of the sum of money hereinafter 
named, to be paid by the party of the first part to the 
party of the second part, the said El Adli agrees to fur- 
nish the party of the first part the iron Dahabeeh, or boat, 
called the 'Gazelle,' and a small boat, together with a 
crew of ten men, with a captain, steersman, cook, and 
boy ; also to furnish an extra first-class cook and two 
servants for the cabin. The boat to be properly fur- 
nished with everything for a first-class Dahabeeh that is 
necessary and useful for the comfort of the party, con- 
sisting of the above-named gentlemen, with Mrs. L., 

2 



18 LETTER III. 

Mrs. W., and Miss E,., for their exclusive use during the 
voyage. 

" Mohamed El Adli agrees to furnish also an abundance 
of all stores, provisions, candles, lights, &c., of the best 
quality, and everything, except wines and liquors, that 
is necessary for the comfort of first-class passengers, and 
also what is necessary for the others on board during the 
entire voyage. Also to provide three meals a day of as 
many courses as shall be required during the voyage. 
Also to have the clothes of the party and all the cabin 
linen washed, &c., as often as is necessary during the 
voyage. 

" Mohamed El Adli, under the foregoing conditions, 
agrees to take the aforesaid party, of six persons exclu- 
sively, to Assouan and back to Cairo, giving them twenty 
days' stoppages on the voyage at any place they may 
wish to stop, at such times as they may choose, provid- 
ing for them good donkeys, guides, guards, and saddles, 
while stopping and while remaining at any place during 
the voyage, and paying all the backsheesh and pres- 
ents that may be expected from them, except those to 
the captain and crew. [This was provided for by a sub- 
sequent agreement, by which we agreed to give our Drag- 
oman £20 additional, he paying them all such.] The 
time of such stoppages less than a day is to be computed 
and reckoned as parts of a day only, which is to consist 
of twelve hours daylight for each and every day of the 
twenty aforesaid. The times necessary for the boat to 
stop, on account of darkness or any other cause, shall 
not be reckoned as parts of the above-named twenty 
days. 



CONTRACT WITH DRAGOMAN. 19 

" Moliamed El Adli further agrees that the boat shall 
have sufficient ballast to insure her safety, that the 
crew shall not leave the boat without the consent of the 
first party to this agreement, that said party shall have 
perfect control over the movements of the boat and 
crew, that when sailing, the sheet or rope attached to 
each sail shall be held or attended to at all times by 
one of the crew, that the decks shall be thoroughly 
washed and cleaned before eight o'clock each morning, 
and that the first party shall in no wise be held respon- 
sible for any damage to the boat or anything belonging 
to her during the voyage. The ' Gazelle ' to be equipped, 
and trip commenced from Cairo, within twelve days from 
the date of this contract. 

" In consideration of the faithful fulfilment of all the 
foregoing stipulations and agreements on the part of the 
said Mohamed El Adli, the said L., W., and E. will pay 
to the said El Adli the .sum of four hundred pounds 
(£400) in gold in the following manner : — Two hundred 
and sixty pounds in advance, and one hundred and forty 
pounds on return to Cairo, which sum shall be in full pay- 
ment for the ' Gazelle,' her crew, captain, cooks, servants, 
provisions, guides, guards, donkeys, saddles, bacTcskeesh, 
and every and all expenses of every kind which the said 
Dragoman El Adli has agreed to undertake in this con- 
tract, and including his own services. [We subsequently 
gave a gratuity of £30 additional for our Dragoman's 
too lavish outlay for us.] 

" Should the party aforesaid wish to extend the time 
beyond the twenty days, they shall have the privilege 
of doing so, by paying all expenses of boat, crew, living, 



20 LETTER III. 

&c., as before named, the sum of seven pounds, ten shil- 
lings foi* each and every day, the time to be computed 
as before mentioned. 

" In case of any disagreement between the parties to 
this contract, the whole matter shall be referred to the 
arbitrament of the American Consul-General at Alexan- 
dria, and his decision shall be final. 

"Witness our hands this 11th day of December, 1866, 
at Cairo. 

" (Signed) W. W. W., for self and party. , 

MoHAMED El Adli. Seal. 

Seen at the Consulate of the U. S. A., 



Seal of the 

Consulate 

of U. S. A. 



at Cairo, Egypt, for the legaliza- 
tion of the signature of W. W. W. 
and the seal of Mohamed El Adli, 
Cairo, Dec. 11th, 1866. 

" For the Consul, Felix Walmass." 

The contracts should be always made and signed in 
duplicate, and the signatures attested at the Consulate. 

The foregoing is perhaps needlessly lengthy, and might 
be abridged to serve every legal purpose. Should the 
traveller wish to go to the Second Cataract, a clause 
should be added, giving him the privilege of so doing at 
a given sum or rate, with number of days' stoppages. It 
generally takes a month longer, with 10 days to stop, 
and costs about the proportion of the first voyage. The 
expense of taking the boat up the Cataract is included. 
This, with the risk, is usually borne by the owner of the 
boat, who lets it to the Dragoman with that stipulation. 



CONTRACT WITH DRAGOMAN. 21 

It is generally better to engage by the trip instead of by 
the day or month. In the former case, all the men are 
hired by the trip, and do not cause those vexatious delays 
which a per diem contract tempts many a crew and 
Dragoman to make, especially if a profitable one. 

We subsequently made an agreement with El Adli to 
pay him additionally (£20) twenty pounds for all the hach- 
sheesh to the captain, crew, cooks, waiters, in going up, re- 
turning, and after arrival back at Cairo, as we did not wish 
to have the trouble of paying them, as customary, about 
twenty times, if they do well ; and it is said they are 
pretty sure not to do so unless they are liberally paid 
this backsheesh, or presents, on arriving at one of the 
principal large towns. As we knew El Adli was liberal 
to a fault, we felt assured he would pay it all faithfully. 
"We shall see, however, and be able to give the result. 
No doubt much trouble is experienced by being too parsi- 
monious with a class of men who must be either driven 
with the whip, or won over to work well by that old- 
established custom of backsheesh, which the Orientals of 
all classes are so clamorous for. 

The " Gazelle " being superior to any other, and of iron, 
a higher, and, it seems, an exorbitant price was paid for 
her by El Adli, viz. £220 for the voyage, and 20 days' 
stoppages, including, of course, her complement of cap- 
tain, crew, &c. This price from the owner, contrary to 
the general usage, did not include the backsheesh to the 
crew and captain on their return. Prices of boats have 
greatly increased the last few years, and it is hoped that 
travellers will not too readily submit to unreasonable 
demands. Our boat had an excellent and full assortment 



22 LETTER III. 

of china, glass, and kitchen ware, electro-plate,' bedding, 
curtains, bed and table linen, — in fact, all the comfort 
and conveniences enjoyed at home for eating. The fol- 
lowing is a copy of her inventory, placed in our hands by 
her owner. 

INVENTORY OP THE "GAZELLE." 

16 pairs muslin curtains — saloon-door curtain — 4 
pictures, village scenes, in frames — 2 large French mir- 
rors, plates 32 X 48 inches — 2 divans with 6 pillows — 
2 taborets with covers — 1 large mahogany centre-table 

— 6 dining-chairs — 1 small round table — 3 state-room 
chairs — 6 small mirrors — after-saloon divans — saloon 
book-shelves — French lamp {regulateur) — 1 hanging- 
lamp — 3 large Wilton and Brussels carpets — 1 velvet 
table-cover — 6 rugs — 2 deck divans — 1 folding-chair — 
4 common deck chairs. 

ELECTRO-PLATE. 1 teapot — 1 coffee-pot— 1 su- 
gar-dish — 1 milk-pitcher — 2 candlesticks with glass 
shades — 5 bedz'oom candlesticks — 1 dozen each of 
table, dessert, and tea spoons — 1 dozen each large and 
small table-forks — 2 gravy-spoons — 1 soup-ladle, sugar- 
tongs, mustard and salt spoons — 6 egg-spoons — 1 set 
castors with 6 bottles — 2 salt-dishes. 

LINEN, &c. 24 sheets — 30 pillow-cases — 12 blankets 

— 6 counterpanes — 30 towels — 24 table-napkins — 6 
tablecloths — 12 kitchen-towels — 6 grass -cloth towels 

— 6 mosquito-curtains, mattrasses and pillows — 5 china 
toilet services of 25 pieces. 

TABLE WARE. 1 dinner service and 1 breakfast 
service, consisting of 107 pieces — 4 decanters — 12 turn- 



INVENTORY OF THE "GAZELLE." 23 

biers — 16 wine and 12 champagne glasses — 12 dinner- 
knives — 12 dessert-knives — 2 cai-vers and forks — 1 
steel — 2 nutcrackers — 1 corkscrew — 1 butter-dish — 

1 sherbet-mug and stand -^ 1 jam stand — 2 glass salts. 
KITCHEN WARE. 1 bread-board and knife — 7 

cooking pans — 1 brass pestle and mortar — 1 marble 
mortar — 1 meat-chopper — 1 copper can — 1 teakettle — 

2 frying-pans — 3 oven-pans — egg-beater- — skimming- 
ladle — 2 pudding-moulds — 3 rolling-pins — 6 bread- 
moulds — iron basin, gridiron, milk-can, coffee-pots, water- 
tins, dustpan, large copper basin, foottub, large knife, 
tea-tray, brass tray — 3 small trays — 3 lanterns — 3 
flatirons — 1 filterer. 

The list of articles of food to furnish our table, which 
will be found in the Appendix, embraces nearly all usually 
furnished, except those obtained by our Dragoman on 
our voyage on the river, such as milk, fruit, vegetables, 
&c. Fresh mutton, poultry, eggs, but not beef, are added 
also as wanted. 

It is hoped my future letters will be more intei-esting, 
embracing, as they will, the daily experience of this ex- 
traordinary voyage on this highway of the beautiful 
valley once peopled by the hosts of Pharaoh and the 
children of Israel, — the land loved and won by Alex- 
ander the Great, the home of Cleopatra, whose " hearth- 
stones," laid years before the advent of our Saviour, are 
yet to be seen, surrounded by gigantic walls and columns 
that have defied the ravages of time and the hand of 
ruthless man. 



LETTER IV. 

EMBARKING FOR THE VOYAGE. OUR FIRST DAY ON BOARD 

THE " GAZELLE." AN EVENING SCENE AT ANCHOR AT 

BOULAK. NO WIND. VISIT TO CAIRO. — VISITORS ON 

BOARD. CHRISTMAS EVE, A RIDDLE. 

My last letter was maiuly devoted to giving an exact 
copy of our Nile voyage contract, the concluding of which 
was an agi'eeable event. It was still more pleasant to the 
" R. W. L." party when the 20th of December came, with 
its bright sky, and the thermometer from 65° to 70° in- 
doors, without fires, there being no place in the room at 
our hotel for one, even if needed. This was the day our 
indefatigable Dragoman had engaged to be in readiness to 
commence our voyage. El Adli came the evening before 
to announce that all was prepared for the morning, and 
it found us ready, with our luggage divided, it being 
necessary to economize room, and leave every superfluous 
thing behind in charge of our bankers in Cairo. Among 
those to whom we bid adieu on leaving the Hotel des 
Ambassadeurs for our Dahab^eh, were Mr. and Mrs. 
Hiram Hitchcock, of 5th Avenue Hotel, New York, who 
were about making arrangements for a party to the Sec- 
ond Cataract on a three months' voyage. While hi^ mul- 
titude of friends in every part of the United States will 



FIRST DAY ON BOARD. 25 

miss his genial face, and an accomplished and popular 
landlord, tliey will be glad to learn that the main object 
of his visit here, the restoration of his health, is in a fair 
way of being gained by a winter on the Nile. He has 
already mnch improved, and as he carries a good rifle, his 
table will not want for that important course to epicures, 
game, so abundant on this river. Before going on board, 
we made a last and important call at our bankers, to get a 
supply of small silver change in Egyptian money to use 
in Upper Egypt, where it is scarce. We had laid in a good 
supply of copper piastres at about forty per cent premium, 
to use there, as none can be bought, and among the com- 
mon people it is not only advantageous, but absolutely 
indispensable. 

On arriving at our future home, lying at the shore of 
Boulak, we were received on board the " Gazelle " by our 
Dragoman, the Reis (captain), crew, and servants, with 
some formality, but M^elcomed in a very respectful and 
pleasant manner. All were neatly dressed in their native 
Egyptian costume. El Adli in his fine cloth suit of 
bright brown, consisting of full trousers, vest and jacket, 
a rich, gay silk Damascus scarf around his waist, and one 
still more so wound around his fez or tabouche. The wait- 
ers, Mahomed and Abouzed, already had the table set for 
the four-o'clock dinner. Everything appeared truly Ori- 
ental, except our saloon and table. They looked so cheer- 
ful and Parisian, that we felt at home at once. We sat 
down to the best dinner we had eaten since we left Paris. 
The quality and style of the cooking, the neatness and 
taste displayed, relieved us of any anxiety regarding the 
merits of our cook and waiters. I may for once be par- 



26 LETTER IV. 

doned for giving our bill of fare, which was only an ordi- 
nary one. Pea-soup, boiled fish garnished with parsley, 
roast mutton, pigeon-pie, roast turkey, mashed potatoes, 
cauliflower salad, apple-tart, stewed apricots, oranges, ba- 
nanas, pears from France, nuts, dried fruits, and coffee. 
Our cook — Achmet Shaheen — is second to none on the 
Nile, has cooked for some of the English nobility, and is 
very neat, prompt, and good-natured, strictly temperate 
in abstaining alike with all the crew, captain, servants, 
and Dragoman, from intoxicating drinks. Native cooks 
and servants for a Nile voyage are well educated in their 
vocation, very attentive, and excel those of the same class 
we have in America. They generally speak a few words 
of either English, French, or Italian. 

After dinner and tea, we arranged our state-rooms, 
which we had mutually assigned to each as equitably as 
possible, and as there was no wind, we slept quietly by 
the shore of Boulak, amidst a crowd of Dahabeehs packed 
in on each side of us. The sun rose bright and clear, but 
our starry flag and gay pennons hung lazily at the masts. 
Our first breakfast we enjoyed much. It consisted of nice 
Mocha cofiee, the best bread and butter we had eaten for 
a long time, honey, three courses of meat, fruit, &c. Soon 
after, we had a call from some American friends, and then 
took carriages to the city to make some purchases at the 
bazaars. On our return to Boulak, the "Gazelle" was 
moored in the stream, ready to take advantage of the first 
fair wind. It requires a good breeze abeam or aft to stem 
the three-mile-an-hour current where there is no tow-path, 
nor channel to push the boat. The Dragomans do not 
employ tow-boats, but keep the passengers until, to use 



SECOND EVENING ON THE NILE, 27 

El Adli's expression, " the good God send us a fair wind." 
This seems strange, as a half-dozen miles up the river is 
a tow-path, which, when reached, the men can " track," 
as they call it here. When no wind, they can make nearly 
two miles an hour. Out of a crew of ten men, eight are 
harnessed to the track rope, the rest being retained on 
board. 

The second evening of our life upon the Nile was lovely 
beyond description. Our ten men, neatly dressed in a 
dark loose robe and white trousers, with red and white 
turbans, were seated in a circle playing on drums and 
tambourine an accompaniment to their peculiar plaintive 
Arab songs. Our Dragoman, the reis, steersman, cooks, 
and boy, were grouped around them on the deck, the lan- 
terns under the awning lighting up the dusky counte- 
nances of the crew that we were studying to remember. 
On the cabin, or upper deck, no lights disturbed the beauty 
of a full moonlight scene, save those twinkling faintly in 
the distant palaces. 

Another morning found us still at our moorings, with a 
light head wind, so after breakfast we took a stroll ashore, 
meeting some American friends canvassing the merits of 
different boats. Again to the bazaars, finding each day 
some little wants to provide for. Drawing-books, blank 
books, stationery, tea, and ginger cakes were added to our 
stock, fearing to come short if many tea-parties ai-e given 
up the river. The evening was passed in oiir home circle 
with games of backgammon and whist. The morrow was 
looked for with some interest, as we expected the pleasure 
of a visit from our Consul-General, Hon. Charles Hale, 
who was on a visit here from Alexandria with the captain 



28 LETTER IV. 

and officers of the U. S. S. " Swatara." This frigate had 
been telegraphed for by Mr. Hale, to take charge of his 
prisoner, young Surratt, who had been arrested by him 
there. 

The following day, being still at anchor, with the wind 
light from the S. S. W., I took a donkey and rode to Cairo. 
Boulak is a large commercial suburb, and the port of 
Cairo, with 5,000 inhabitants. It is under the same 
governor or pacha as Cairo, and has large foundries, 
machine-shops, locomotive works, sugar-mills, and other 
Government buildings, including the new and unrivalled 
Egyptian Museum of Antiquities. The distance is about 
two miles from New, and about foixr from Old Cairo. But 
to continue. My ride was the same interesting one I had 
taken before several times. I had to thread m}'' way, as- 
sisted by the donkey attendant, through throngs of the 
Oriental human species, strings of camels carrying lum- 
ber, building-stone, and every kind of merchandise, and 
men, women, and children mounted on the little and ex- 
ceedingly strong and docile Egyptian donkey. The streets 
on the way are lined with vendors of all kinds of fruits, 
vegetables, merchandise, &c., conspicuous among which 
are those selling fresh, luscious sugar-cane in lengths of 
six to eight feet. I alighted at our hotel to find the Con- 
sul-General and the officers at the twelve-o'clock breakfast. 
As they were to visit the Museum before calling on us, by 
the recommendation of Mr. Hale I concluded to follow 
their example, and would urge all travellers not to omit 
doing so. It is a fine building, situated on the river bank, 
with a garden, court of statuary, and lai'ge pieces of an- 
tiquity. The interior has marble floors and highly deco- 



VISITORS ON BOARD. 29 

rated ceilings. Handsome inlaid cabinets and glass cases 
are placed in excellent order around the different apart- 
ments, their contents all classified and numbered, to cor- 
respond with a large catalogue published in French in 
1864, and containing 917 described articles of antiquity, 
the greater part from 3,000 to 4,000 years old, embracing 
jewelry, household gods, vases, statuettes, implements of 
every kind of use, even to a comb with the original dirt 
and grease of the hair adhering to it, dice as old as 
Moses, showing the truth of Solomon, that "there is 
nothing new under the sun," which applies to Egypt, 
where the same kinds of tools and implements, the same 
customs, prevail now as in Pharaoh's time. There are as 
many more articles not in catalogue. The exhibition is 
free to all foreigners, without ticket or remuneration, from 
8 to 5 in summer, and 9 to 4 in winter, except Friday, the 
Mohammedan sabbath. The Museum is the sole property 
of the Viceroy, at whose expense it was built at an 
enormous sum. 

After their visit, the Consul-General, with Commander 
Jeffers and eight of the officers of the " Swatara," came to 
our landing, and were taken on board by small boat, 
under our new Union Jack in the " stern sheets." Our 
flag was lowered in salute as they came alongside, and 
were received by our entire party. After a spirited con- 
versation, in which the ladies had a full share, we showed 
them over our rooms, ours being the first Nile boat the 
officers had seen. They expressed much surprise at the 
comfort and luxury visible ; and after a lunch", includ- 
ing New York oysters, and champagne of Moet and 
Chandon's vintage, they left, to take a drive to the 
Shoobra Gardens. 



30 LETTER IV. 

The next day, there being no breeze, was devoted to 
another visit to the Museum. Just before night, a slight 
indication of a fair wind caused a sudden stir on deck 
and striking of awnings, but it died away into a calm and 
beautiful eve. An English boat, the " Zarifa," had hauled 
out astern of us and anchored, ready to start. No 
Christmas Eve revel disturbed the quiet of our night. 

Some lines composed by one of the ladies of our party, 
read to us in the evening, and transcribed to my Journal, 
I take the liberty of appending to this closing part of my 
letter,' 



ANTICIPATORY. 

Awake! my muse, awake! and tell 
The wondrous fortunes that befell 
The party gay " R. W. L.," 
When leaving Cairo's city fair, 
The storied city, rich and rare, 
And marvellous beyond compare. 
Borne by the light and swift " Gazelle," 
They boldly stemmed the rushing tide 
Of ancient Nile's majestic river. 
As up the mighty stream they glide. 
The myriad sunbeams dance and quiver, 
Reflected in the ripples bright 
That mark their vessel's path with light. 



A RIDDLE, 31 

High beat their hearts with hope elate ; 

No fear have they of adverse fate ; 

For joyful they recall the day, 

When, by the sunset's crimson ray, 

They first beheld in all its glory 

This stream so famed in classic story. 

'T was when they stepped from ofE the beach 

Into the tiny skiff, which bore them 

O'er waters shoal their bark to reach, 

The very heavens seemed op'ning o'er them. 

Dian's pale crescent shone on high, 

The bow of promise spanned the sky. 

Oh, deem them not presumptuous grown. 

That, as they gazed, these words were spoken. 

Breathed forth in low and reverent tone : 

" This is of love divine the token! 

This is the very smile of Heaven ! 

Commence we then our pilgrimage, 

Believing in the kind presage : 

Remembering this auspicious even." 

One thing alone their souls sore vexed: 

A riddle had their brains perplexed. 

In Alexander's ancient city, 

Renowned for all that 's wise and witty, 

That quaint device which there abounded. 

Might not its hidden lore be sounded ? 

'T were sad to tell of all their wrangles 

About the two combined triangles. 

" 'Tis Euclid's emblem," quoth the scholar. 

"No! " said his friend, with well-feigned choler, 

" 'T is of Freemasonry the sign! 

I '11 pledge you to 't in sparkling wine." 

The strife wax'd high. At length " Eureka! " 

Burst from the lips of a third seeker. 



32 LETTER IV. 

" Behold, O friends! behold with pride! 
Of us these ancients prophesied. 
As these six angles interlace, 
Each perfect in its form and place. 
Combining thus to form a star, 
So we six happy mortals are, 
Uniting in harmonious whole. 
Fill high, fill high the flowing bowl! 
And now let 's choose as our device, 
Ceasing henceforth from all vain jangles, 
These signs which grandly took their rise 
In times of eld; these two triangles." 
Thus gayly chatted they awhile, 
Then slept and dreamed upon the Nile. 



LETTER V. 

CHRISTMAS. HEAD WIND. VISITORS TO DINE. A DECK 

SCENE. EXCURSION TO HELIOPOLIS. FAIR WIND. THE 

"gazelle" LEAVES BOULAK. AN EVENING ADVEN- 
TURE. THE START ON THE VOYAGE. SCENES ON THE 

RIVER. GAME. STUCK PAST ON A SAND-BAR. A RACE 

WITH THE " ZARIFA." A WALK ON SHORE. HEAD WIND. 

ARRIVAL AT BENISOEF. 

My fifth letter leaves us still at our moorings at Bou- 
lak, waiting for a fair wind, and I continue my narrative 
of life on this river, and excursions ashore, commencing 
with Christmas morning. Our flag and pennants floated 
to a slight breeze which came down the river. Every- 
thing betokened around us a perfect ignorance of the 
day, except that a salute was fired on our deck from 
our double-barrel fowling-pieces, revolvers, and rifles. 
Among the numerous craft ai-ound us, only two flags 
were visible, those of the " Nightingale," taken by Mr. 
Hitchcock, mentioned in a preceding letter, and the 
"Zarifa," under English colors. 

All of our party again visited Cairo, while I, mounted 
on " Mahomet Jack," attended by a sprightly and enter- 
taining donkey-boy named Amine, rode to the Hotel des 
Ambassadeurs to invite our friends Mr. and Mrs. Hrtch- 

3 



34 LETTER V. 

cock on board to dine, there being no prospect of a 
fair wind. They came, and at half-past three we all 
sat down to a " Merry Christmas " dinner, got up in 
Achmet Shaheen's best style. Among the good things 
were roast turkey, plum-pudding, an elaborate cake, with 
sweetmeats, almonds, &c., that would not have done dis- 
credit to a professional confectioner. 

After the toasts, songs, conundrums, and stories were 
over, our Dragoman, El Adli, invited us on deck to see 
the illuminations from our 60 variegated colored lan- 
terns, tastefully displayed. The Arab crew, who had 
enlivened the scene with songs, accompanied by their 
drums and tambourines, were ranged on the upper deck 
to receive us, and at the word of command from El 
Adli, they gave us three rousing cheers in good English 
style, which we returned, and then they retired to their 
quarters on the forward deck. After an hour of games 
of " squalls," our friends left, to meet us again some- 
where up the Nile. 

The next day was clear as usual, with a slight head 
wind, light as a zephyr. Determined not to lose time, 
but to visit Heliopolis, we left in can-iages at 11 a. m., 
passing through Boulak to the east, thence across a 
sandy plain, relieved only by immense Government 
buildings, among them a very large one, surrounded by 
high walls, and flanked with towers and extensive bar- 
racks, for the city garrison, which amounts to about 
10,000 men. There were, farther on, steam works for 
raising water from the Nile for irrigation and other pur- 
poses, and buildings connected with the railroad to Suez. 
The scene again changed, and we entered upon a fertile 



EXCURSION TO HELIOPOLIS. 35 

plain on an excellent road, lined with flourishing acacia- 
trees, an avenue leading to a handsome modern-biiilt 
mansion. Here were seen on either side pretty gardens, 
fields of corn, wheat, cotton, sugar-cane, and clover, or- 
chards of lime and orange trees in full bearing, the 
prickly-pear (an enormous tree of the cactus species, 
raised for producing cochineal for exportation), grape- 
vines, and pomegranate-trees. Everything looked fresh, 
and intensely green, owing to the artificial watering from 
the Nile necessarily practised all through the great valley 
of Egypt, where rain is scarcely ever seen. 

Passing the mud-built village of Matarieh by devious 
turns through fields, after alighting from our carriages we 
arrived at the obelisk of red granite, covered with hiero- 
glyphics from top to base. It is 68 feet high, 6 of which 
are below the present surface of the ground, now a hol- 
low, but once an elevated mound, and the only remain- 
ing relic of Heliopolis. 

This city was the oldest in Egypt, and is the " On " 
mentioned in the Bible. It was the school of Herodotus, 
Plato, and Dionysius. We visited the great perennial 
sycamore-tree under whose shadow the Holy Family is 
said to have rested ; also the well by which sat Mary 
when she fled hither with the infant Jesus. Whether 
true or not, the tree, or rather the roots, are of an in- 
credible age, undoubtedly from the fact that, century 
after century, it appears to be renewed by new shoots, 
succeeding the decaying trunk. The present one is an 
irregular bunch of trunks grown together, of a diameter 
of about ten feet, with comparatively a scanty foliage on 
its huge limbs. 



36 LETTER V. 

On returning towards Cairo, we observed a slight change 
of wind ; but the ladies wishing a few more articles, deter- 
mined us to drive to Cairo and visit the bazaars once more. 
Having completed our purchases, we drove to Boulak, 
and on arriving at our landing-place, the "Gazelle" was 
gone. It was getting late, and we had a drive of five 
miles before us. The coachmen said the horses were too 
tired to go on. We were miles away from any other car- 
riages, but we overcame their scruples with half the sum 
they charged, and rattled along towards Old Cairo at a 
more rapid pace than ever. 

Arriving at the point agreed upon in the morning, no 
boat or " Gazelle " was to be seen. The sun had sunk 
behind the shores of Ghizeh and the Pyramids, and dark- 
ness came on rapidly, with no twilight intervening, and 
the moon not risen. We were in a quandary. Should we 
go in search of our boat on the river, or drive to an hotel 
at Cairo in the dark, three miles distant 1 We chose the 
former. A crowd of native boatmen were anxious to 
convey us. 

In the midst of negotiations with these clamorous and 
noisy men, a colored signal-light suddenly appeared on 
the opposite shore. We waited, but no small boat came, 
neither answer to my shrill whistle. Negotiations were 
renewed, and prices of the rapacious boatmen sud- 
denly fell, when I observed with the aid of my glass a 
dark object on the river with a light. I again blew my 
Avhistle, and received a reply. Soon El Adli in a small 
boat with two men landed. The disappointed boatmen 
were noisy and troublesome at our departure, and we 
were glad to end the adventure and be once more at home 
on the "Gazelle," which lay by the shore for the night. 



SCENES ON THE RIVER. 37 

The morning was clear and calm, with thermometer at 
60° at sunrise. A slight fair wind soon set in, and in 
company with the "Zarifa," which had followed from 
Boulak, we hoisted sail at 8 a. m. ; a salute was fired, 
and we really commenced our Nile voyage, after having 
been wind-bound a week. The sailing qualities of the 
respective boats were tested, and found to be nearly 
equal with a light breeze, but as it freshened towards 
night, we beat the other "by several miles. 

During the night, we passed the barracks of the black 
regiments of the Viceroy, and on the banks of the river 
300 Africans, naked, except a strip of cloth around their 
loins, were washing their white canvas shirts, trousers, 
and jackets, trimmed with orange-colored braid, which 
constitute the uniform of the infantry. Next day being 
Friday, the Moslem sabbath, explained the washing day. 
These men are brought by the river from the interior of 
Africa. They have their heads shaved, and wear the fez, 
like all Egyptians, dispensing with Nature's covering. 
The river was crowded with freight-boats of all sizes, 
bound up, having waited for the fair wind. 

The next day was very cold for Egypt, even in winter, 
the mercury standing at 46° at sunrise, but rapidly rose 
as the burning rays of the sun increased, and reached 75° 
at noon. I intend keeping a daily record of the temper- 
ature during our voyage, and will at its termination give 
the result. We had passed in the night, so our Drago- 
man informed us, no less than 300 sail of vessels. A 
bright moon rendered the navigation easy, and our swift 
" Gazelle " distanced them all. The false Pyramid of 
Rigga was now in sight (the others were passed yester- 



38 LETTER V. 

day), and we were half way to Benisoef, one of the eight 
principal cities on the river at which passenger boats 
usually stop. Great quantities of pelicans, cranes, ducks, 
and geese were seen on the sand-bars, which tempted us 
to take the small boat and have a shot at them ; but we 
found our double-barrels did not carry far enough, being 
only 16 calibre, when they should have been French 
number 12. We regret not having brought a modem 
rifle. Formerly, these birds were easily reached ; but Lord 
Landsborough, who made a voyage up the Nile on a 
foolish sporting, or rather slaughtering, expedition, to see 
how many head of game he could kill, brought a small 
swivel, which was charged with balls and shot, and when 
mounted on a small boat, made tremendous havoc among 
the ducks and geese which swarm the sand-bars. It is 
said they are more timid since. His lordship, however, 
made a marvellous count, and his exploits at shooting no 
doubt have made him famous in sporting circles. 

Pigeons, of which there were many, were easily reached 
with our pieces, but we did not wish to lose the fair 
wind, and abandoned the sport. 

The " Gazelle " stuck fast on a sand-bar, and we were 
detained three hours, after which, the wind dying away, 
we stopped at night twenty-five miles from Benisoef. 
The morning came with a light fair wind, disclosing the 
" Zarifa " in sight astern. An exciting race followed, 
which continued during the day with varied fortunes. As 
the wind died away, the crews strained every nerve at 
pushing with their long poles, singing and shouting. 
An Egyptian passenger steamer was passed on her return 
trip, and friends saluted on board of her that we had 
parted with on their leaving Cairo, the 10th December. 



HEAD WIND. ARRIVAL AT BENISOEF. 39 

The crews of the " Gazelle " and " Zarifa " (ours having 
the lead) commenced to track or tow, givuig us the 
wished-for opportunity to land for a walk. Here we saw 
fields of corn and wheat, villages with their groves of 
palm-trees in the distance over the prairie-like valley, the 
railroad in course of construction from Cairo to Sioot, 
camels travelling on the highway along the river, and 
other objects of interest. The sun was hot, and flies 
somewhat troublesome ; but we were amply repaid by the 
exercise taken. There being no breeze, both boats had to 
tie up for the night, only five miles from the city. 

A head wind prevailed the next day, a part of which 
we remained by the bank, giving us the opportunity of a 
chat with the two English gentlemen of the " Zarifa." 
A sugar-cane pedler with his camel loaded came to us, 
and we and the crew discussed the merits of the lus- 
cious saccharine stick. Some fish were caught by our 
waiters and served upon our table, but I cannot say they 
equal those of Boston Bay. 

A delightful walk ashore was indulged in through fields 
of beans which extended over a hundred acres. They 
were in full blossom, and a sprinkling of the sweet-pea 
among them made the air redolent with perfume. Un- 
like the beans cultivated in America, they grow on stout 
stalks two or three feet high, with large clusters of 
variegated blossoms. 

About noon, the crew commenced "pushing," and at 
five, both boats i-eached Benisoef, where we stepped 
ashore and took a walk through the town. It appeared 
curious to us, with its narrow, crooked, covered, and 
gloomy passages. Unexpectedly, we came to a sign of the 



40 LETTER V. 

United States Consulate Agency, at the door of which 
stood our reiDresentative, Narsala Loga, an Egyptian, who 
speaks only Arabic. He invited lis to walk in and take 
coffee, our Dragoman acting as interpreter. We spent a 
half hour, after which he accepted an invitation to visit 
our Dahabeeh, returned with us, and was entertained 
with wine, tea, cakes, and music on the flute, by Doctor 
R. He is one of several appointed by Consul-General 
Hale, is a wealthy merchant of Cairo, belongs to the 
American church there, has a large plantation near Ben- 
isoef, and remains there only about four months in 
winter to attend to the wants of American travellers, 
giving them the necessary protection if needed, settling 
disputes, &c., all without any pay, except such presents 
as may be given him. But he has the honor and advan- 
tage of the office, which has influence with the Government 
officers. We remained " tied up " at the landing for the 
night, and my next will commence with our departure 
and continuation of the voyage. 



LETTER VI. 



u 



LEAVE BENISOEP. AN EVENING VISIT TO THE " ZARIFA. ' 

HEAD WIND. " TRACKING." SPORTING EXCURSION. 

THE "CLEOPATRA" COMES UP. ANOTHER RACE. A 

NILE FLEET. EXCITING COMPETITION OP BOAT CREWS. 

WASHING-DAY. RHODA. ABOO-FAYDAH. CROCODILES. 

Benisoef. — We left the landing and minarets of Beni- 
soef early in the morning, and commenced "tracking," 
the "Zarifa" following. The atmosphere and scenery 
invited to a walk on shore. The ladies took one direction, 
while two of us, with the fowling-pieces, went in another, 
more distant from the river, keeping in view and follow- 
ing the course of the " Gazelle." Among the birds shot 
was a very handsome species of hawk. The day, like 
most of those on a Dahabeeh, was spent in reading, writ- 
ing, drawing, and no little time in eating. There being 
no wind, at night we came to anchor, with the "Zarifa" 
just astern, and soon the gentlemen received an invita- 
tion from Messrs. Noel and Ramsden, through their 
Dragoman, to visit them on board and play whist, which 
two of us accepted. We found them very agreeable and 
sociable. Mr. N". is a Member of Parliament, and had 
been in the United States in 1859. In Boston he had 
experienced much hospitality from some of our "first 



42 LETTER VI. 

families," and belonging to the Reform party, was quite 
eulogistic of our Government, especially that of Massa- 
chusetts, and the municipal laws of Boston. It being 
the last day of the year, preparations were made on the 
" Gazelle " for some little surprises for New Year's morn, 
among the R. W. L.'s. 

It proved the most lovely one we had seen on the 
Nile. The temperature was 65°, which increased at noon 
to 75°, and remained in evening at 70° indoors, the differ- 
ence between which and the deck only varying from 3 to 
5 degrees at any time. We were only about 80 miles 
above Cairo, and tracking, there being no wind. Several 
steamers passed us, one for the collection of taxes, sent 
by the Viceroy to swell his immense revenues. These 
taxes ai'e gathered among the fellaheen, or the Arab 
peasantry, by a most despotic and wholesale use of the 
whip, and imprisonment. All of us went on shore again, 
and as the pigeons were thick, we took our double-barrels. 
The view whei'e we landed is very pretty. The valley 
of the Nile, intensely green, is walled in on each side by 
the distant range of yellow limestone hills or " mountains," 
as called here; and there are villages of mud-brick walls, 
and clusters of the ever-present palm-trees, luxurious 
crops of wheat about a foot high, twenty-acre fields of 
beans in full blossom, white clover two feet high, corn 
and lentils (the latter a kind of very small pea, raised in 
large quantities) just gathered and trodden out by buffa- 
loes in the field. Squash-vines were just coming out of 
the ground, protected from the north winds by wisps of 
straw. The river banks, travelled by a numerous and 
strange people, presented an interesting sight, while the 



THE "CLEOPATRA" COMES UP. 43 

fields were occupied by numevons fellaheen either harvest- 
ing or watering the crops by conducting the water, raised 
from the Nile by means of the well-sweep, over the fields 
in little channels dug in the soil. This is easily done in 
the mud deposit of the Nile. 

It was interesting to me as I roamed over the fields in 
quest of game to meet and note the peculiarities of this 
degraded and down-trodden race of men of bronze. They 
came around me with childish and rather pressing curi- 
osity, importuning me for backsheesh and powder. They 
were astonished to see the breech-loader and my revolver, 
and how effective they were when compared with the few 
old flint-locks in use among them. Having returned to 
our boats with our game, while enjoying the scene on deck, 
the tall spar and pennant of a Dahabeeh appeared among 
a small squadron of freight-boats coming up with a light 
breeze, which we were now improving. Her French flag 
and sigTial indicated her to be the " Cleopatra," with a 
party of three French counts and three other gentlemen 
who had left Cairo a week before us. "We sailed all 
night, passing about 300 sails, during which the "Zarifa" 
and the "Cleopatra" got ahead of us while we were on a 
sand-bar. 

The next morning proved a cloudy one, without any 
material change in the temperature. It soon cleared off 
with a good breeze, and we got ahead of our rival boats. 
I counted 70 sails in sight, 50 of which were in a close 
line, with the " Zarifa " among them. The sandstone blufis 
on the east bank of the river reminded me of those on 
the Upper Mississippi, near St. Paul. The breeze in- 
creased, bringing up the "Cleopatra." She passed us, 



44 LETTER VI. 

and we passed her in turn, the ci'ews of each singing, 
drumming, and shouting at each success or gain. As we 
had to stop to take in two men who had gone to market, 
she got ahead again. 

About dinner-time, Minieh, one of the prettiest places 
on the Nile, was in sight, also an American Dahab^eh 
named the " Nubia," formerly the " Cairo." We gained 
oil the " Cleopatra," and came up with her close along- 
side. She attempted to run into us, which caused some 
angry words between the respective Dragomans, captains, 
and crews of the boats, which ended in an interference of 
the French gentlemen of the " Cleopatra," one of whom 
administered an emphatic rebuke to his Syrian Dragoman, 
as it appeared to us, in the shape of a blow. The crews 
were both excited, — ours because they had been abused, 
and the rules of the river violated; while in fairly beat- 
ing them, the other crew lost their temper, and the Drag- 
oman his sense of duty and propriety. We left them 
astern, and passed Minieh, the wind being fair, and re- 
served this among other points of interest for our return. 
It contains new objects of interest not mentioned in any 
guide-book, which will be described in a future letter. 

The scenery improved as we advanced, and we admired 
the manner of cultivation. The water-raisers were nu- 
merous on the banks, each station employing three, one 
above another, about five feet in height apart, wath sweeps 
and leathern buckets, which raise and deposit the water 
from one reservoir to another, till it reaches the little 
channels on the surfVice. In this way, hundreds of thou- 
sands work to water the land from morning till night. 
An aqueduct in course of construction, with thousands of 



WASHING DAY. RHODA. 45 

Arabs at work on it, miles of palm-trees, tombs, and ruins 
of towns — some built by the Romans — made up the 
variety of the panorama. 

The routine of boat life was broken to-day by having 
our washing done on board, and clothes drying on deck. 
The sunset was lovely, but we lost the breeze, which 
obliged us to tie up at the shore of the famous Beni- 
Hassan, the tombs of which we shall visit on our 
return. 

The morning was. cool, calm, and foggy, but a clear sun 
and breeze soon followed. Two miles astern were our old 
neighbors, amidst a large fleet of freight-boats^ their snowy 
canvas and lofty sails making a beautiful picture, which I 
attempted to sketch. The shores as we approached Rhoda 
increased in beauty, and a dozen tall chimneys of the 
steam sugar-works appeared, indicating the immense busi- 
ness done at these, the largest establishments of the kind 
known. They belong to the Viceroy, whose great mo- 
nopoly and revenues are hardly estimated or known in 
America. 

Lofty palms and acacias became more abundant as we 
approached the picturesque town, Avhere the new palace, 
with its gardens and appurtenances on the brink of the 
river, have a very pretty effect. It is built in the Euro- 
pean style by a Greek architect, and not yet furnished. 
"We counted 220 camels lengthened out a mile in single 
file, all loaded with sugar-cane, and slowly with measured 
tread wending their way to the mill. Intending to visit 
this place on our return, we sailed past with a strong fair 
wind, passing beautiful groves of trees and vegetable 
gardens. 



46 LETTER VI. 

Many rafts of earthen water-jars were met. They were 
tied together two deep, each raft containing 1,000. I 
counted ten rafts in one lot. They are made in Kenneh, 
in immense quantities, and used both for raising and trans- 
porting water and other liquids, being about 2 feet high, 
and holding 5 gallons. 

Here was to be seen the ancient water-wheel in opera- 
tion, for irrigation along the banks. On it jars are 
bound and turned by a horizontal cog-wheel shaft, to 
which oxen or buffaloes are harnessed in the primitive way 
of 3,000 years ago. The fields of wheat, barley, beans, 
grass, lupins,, &c., were in a flourishing condition, and a 
perfect prairie of wheat extended as far as the eye could 
reach. Pelicans, geese, ducks, and pigeons were seen in 
great numbers. We took a walk on shore, and enjoyed a 
beautiful sunset, as the wind was light and about expir- 
ing. The " Gazelle " lay by the shore aU night, with the 
" Zarifa " and " Cleopatra " just astern. 

The next morning was mild and cleai*; and while the 
crew were taking breakfast, I went ashore and shot a very 
pretty hawk, while the doctor brought as his trophy a 
crocodile bird. The latter is about the size of a large 
robin, pure black and white, and is said to warn the croco- 
dile by its peculiar cry. They are very abundant, and 
crocodiles scarce in this region. We saw, however, to-day, 
as we passed the high and curious bluffs of Aboo-Faydah, 
two of these celebrated and once idolized monsters of the 
Nile basking in the sun under the cliffs, on a bit of sand 
close to the water's edge. They were pointed out by one 
of our waiters, otherwise we should not have noticed their 
peculiar inanimate ioglike forms. We saluted them with 



CROCODILES. 47 

our shot-guns, the contents of which rattled harmlessly 
on their hard skins, causing them to vanish with a sudden 
plunge, while the numerous caverns and chasms in these 
cliffs resounded with the echoes of our guns and voices. 
They are to be killed only with a ball, either through the 
eyes, under the neck, or fore-foot. We passed an old 
Copt convent and many old tombs, and as the wind was 
light, had to track a part of the day. Sunset was a glori- 
ous one, and at Manfaloot we tied up for the night. 



LETTER VII. 

MANFALOOT. ANOTHER RACE AND NEARLY AN ARAB BOAT- 
MEN FIGHT. SIOOT. A STRONG BREEZE. SOHAG 

BREAD-MAKING. TEMPLE OF DENDERAH. ARRIVAL AT 

THEBES. VISIT TO LADY DUFF GORDON. VISITORS, AND 

ILLUMINATION OF THE "GAZELLE." 

On the morning of the 5th of January, we were only 
just above Manfaloot, once an important town, but is de- 
scribed by Murray and others as " nearly washed away." 
We omitted stopping, being out of sight of any Daha- 
b^eh ; and as the crew were tracking, we took the guns 
ashore, and had a long tramp after game across an exten- 
sive plain covered with flourishing crops. A distant view 
of Sioot was had while tied up at the bank for the even- 
ing. All was quiet, when I heard what I supposed was a 
steamer passing us ; but a stir on deck, and orders rapidly 
given, explained the cause. A breeze had sprung up 
while our men were sleeping, and our rivals, the " Zarifa " 
and " Cleopatra," w'ere improving it. We soon over- 
hauled and passed them. 

The next morning was calm and cloudy. The " Za- 
rifa " and " Cleopatra " were just astern. An exciting 
race of "pushing" now took place. It was neck and 
neck with the " Cleopatra " and " Gazelle." The crews 



siooT. 49 

abused each other in noisy Arabic. The former got ahead 
with a httle breeze, but we distanced them in pushing, 
and finally gained the lead on the tow-path. 

At breakfast time, our men having the track, tied up 
as usual, expecting the " Cleopatra " would do the same ; 
instead of which, she passed us, contrary to the rules. 
Our captain and crew, incensed, sprang to their poles, 
and cast off amid a general medley of abuse. Our men 
began to strip for a fight with those of the "Cleopatra," 
who were on the bank tracking. I had to interfere, 
and forbid any fighting in the presence of ladies. They 
reluctantly obeyed, for the provocation was great. The 
" Cleopatra " soon stopped for the men to take their 
breakfast, when we resumed our proper place. A breeze 
sprang up, and we soon reached the landing of the prin- 
cipal city of Upper Egypt, with our colors flying in 
gallant style, those of the English and French closely 
following. 

In ten minutes we were all ashore, mounted on 
donkeys, which are always in readiness at the landing 
to convey passengers to the city, two miles off. It 
contains about 20,000 inhabitants, and, with its fifteen 
minarets, backed by high mountains, makes a very fine 
appearance. The ride was through beautiful green fields 
and gardens, with numerous acacia and palm trees on 
each side of a causeway whose tortuous windings must 
have been planned for the defences of the city. 

After visiting the busy and well-supplied bazaars, 
we called on the Consular Agent, and gave him some 
letters to forward to America. Returning to the boat, 
we had a visit fi'om our friends of the " Zarifa." The 

4 



50 LETTER VII. 

morning brought a fair wind, and preparations were 
made for sailing. A sheep killed for the men, according 
to custom, was hanging up to the rigging. The breeze 
increased, and we soon were, for the tirst time, sailing 
with as much wind as we wanted, making 10 miles an 
hour, and the boat stiff and steady. We passed 16 rafts 
and several vessel-loads of the Kenneh water-jaES. 

Nikileh, a Copt or Christian town, appeared so inviting, 
especially in the quantity of wild pigeons flying in its 
close vicinity, decided us to put it in our list of down- 
ward sto^)pages. A Dahabeeh under English colors was 
lying by, on account of the dreaded wind off the moun- 
tains of Shekh Harida, which we soon after passed. We 
had made 50 miles, mostly in about 6 hours. The 
wind died away in the evening, and we tied up for the 
night. 

This being the fast of Ramadan, neither our Drago- 
man nor Reis would eat or drink anything between 
sunrise and sunset. The fast lasts 30 days, commencing 
with the first new moon of the month. The evening was 
pleasantly passed in playing charades and other games, 
to which our Dragoman being invited, participated in. 
He also sang in a low voice an Arabic tune, to which he 
improvised words of good wishes to the party. 

The morning brought us a head wind, and we took our 
guns, bringing back a fine lot of pigeons. We were now 
in sight of Sohag, at which our Dragoman determined to 
stop to bake bread for the crew, as wheat was cheaper 
here. They find their own food on board, and have a 
cook especially for themselves. It consists principally of 
wheat bread baked hard in biscuit form without leaven. 



SOHAG. 51 

This is soaked in water and made into a mush, which is 
eaten with lentils and onions, boiled into a soup. The 
wheat is bought at the principal towns on the river, 
where there are millstones for grinding, turned by a mule 
or buffalo. The crew make it up themselves, and bake 
it in the ovens of the town, hired for the purpose. No 
meat is eaten by them except when a sheep is given them 
occasionally on the voyage as a present. 

We reached Sohag not before night, owing to the light 
breeze. The " Zarifa " passed us, as its crew baked their 
bread at another place, without stopping here. 

We were aroused the next morning before light by 
a gun fired from the esplanade of the Government 
House near us, a signal for Mussulmans to pray and eat 
before sunrise, the time for those keeping Ramadan. I 
took an early stroll ashore with my gun, and brought back 
enough pigeons for our breakfast, after which we all went 
into town to see the process of bread making and baking. 
Some schools, a new mosque, and the bazaars were 
visited. In the latter we encountered two Greeks, one 
of whom offered to show us his quarters in an English 
commercial house, established here for the purchase of 
produce. He gave his name as Nicolas Quibeologas, 
entertained us with refreshments, and took us over the 
Government House, introducing us to the Governor, who 
on our entrance politely received us, dismissing some 
native merchants who were having some business diffi- 
culty adjusted. * We were offered, but declined, refresh- 
ments, and as the Governor could speak only Arabic, we 
soon took leave. Our Greek friends accompanied us to 
the " Gazelle," and were entertained till our crew were 



52 LETTER VII. 

ready to sail. They were delighted to meet us, as it is 
rare they see Europeans or Americans, Sohag being 
rarely visited by them. The town has 5,000 inhabitants, 
and a garrison of 500 soldiers. We left at noon, just as 
an English Dahabeeh had passed, but we soon overhauled 
and out-sailed her, with a good breeze. The town of 
Girgeh was passed at night, where the "Zarifa" was 
observed lying, for her crew to make bread. This was 
formerly the capital of Upper Egypt, and now ranks next 
to Sioot. Excursions to the ruins of Abydus are some- 
times made from this town by a three hours' ride on 
donkeys, while the boat proceeds up the river. We 
preferred, as we had a fair wind, to visit it from the 
nearer point of Bellianeh on our return, keeping our boat 
there, thus saving a long ride, and avoiding the uncer- 
tainty of the boat's movements. 

The wind failed us in the night, during which we were 
on a sand-bar an hour, and finally tied up. 

A good progress was made the next day, with a fair 
wind. We passed a fine sugar-growing country, with 
another species of palm called the " dome," not foimd in 
Lower Egypt. At night we had but a light wind, and 
the morning found us near Kenneh, opposite which is the 
temple of Denderah, six miles from the shore. This we 
determined to visit, and accordingly we stopped for the 
purpose. 

While getting in readiness, a Dahabeeh with American 
colors came drifting down with the current. She proved 
to be the "Sancho," with Messrs. Mifflin, Tiffany, and 
Wells, of New York, who were the first party up the Nile 
this season. 



TEMPLE OP DBNDERAH. 63 

We were all soon mounted on donkeys, rambling along 
at a fast pace beside fields of wheat, lentils, beans, &c., 
bordered by numerous and various kinds of trees, among 
which were the dome-palm. These have a short trunk, 
with thick clusters of leaves forming the shape of a dome 
somewhat flattened. 

Passing through a small miserable mud village, with 
inhabitants but half clad and children nude, we came in 
sight of the once stately temple of Denderah, with its 
huge gate half sunk among the debris of Tentyra. No- 
thing of the town remains but this temple, in a remark- 
able state of preservation. Its whole interior and exte- 
rior walls are covered with hieroglyphics in bas-relief. 
The open entrance-hall, or portico, has 24 columns, 60 
feet high, and 8 in diameter, in a space 100 by 70 
feet. Then succeeds another hall of 6 columns with 
three rooms on each side ; after that a central chamber, 
and the sanctuary behind it. This sanctuary has a pas- 
sage leading around it, with three rooms on each. side. 
The whole length of the temple is about 250 feet, and 
the gate stands nearly 300 feet distant in front. This 
space once constituted the dromos, and is now a heap of 
rubbish. But the temple cannot fail to gratify the tour- 
ist, and should be seen before its more gigantic rivals at 
Karuak. 

We returned highly pleased with our visit, and sailed in 
the evening, with the " Cleopatra " following us close by. 
Nothing occurred the next day remarkable. The weather 
was lovely as usual. We passed many villages ; game be- 
came abundant ; some pigeons were killed ; the " Zarifa " 
came up in sight, and the " Cleopatra " by a r^ise got ahead 



54 LETTER VII. 

of US in pushing. The sunset was a gorgeous one, the 
river like a mirror, and thermometer 78°, which fell 9 
degrees in 15 minutes after the sun went down. 

Januaiy 13th. — This Sabbath morning was another 
clear and warm one, with no wind. We were tracking, 
and came in sight of Thebes, or Luxor, the long-looked- 
for city, whose ruins are so woi'ld-wide known and admired. 
As we passed the flag of the Consulate, a salute was fired by 
us, and the "Cleopatra" and "Zarifa" were soon moored 
beside us. We landed immediately, and made a call on the 
venerable Mustapha Aga, Consular agent of the United 
States and Great Britain. After getting our letters and 
papers, which had been forwarded by our bankers in Cairo, 
we had pipes and coflPee, and then visited the temple, over 
a part of which the Consulate is built, as is also the 
house of Lady Duff Gordon, who is residing here.-^ We 
called on her after sending our cards, which brought her 
servant to our boat with an invitation. When we entered 
the presence of this eccentric woman, she was dressed in 
half Arab costume, sitting on a low divan, with her dinner 
befoi'e her on a low stand. She was eating with her fin- 
gers in Arab style, and received us, without rising, with as 
much sang froid as an Eastern princess. We found her, 
however, disposed to conversation, which turned on the 
subject of the state of the country and people. She dis- 
played much interest for the Arabs, and considerable in- 
telligence on matters and things generally. She is an 
authoress, as is also her mother, Mrs. Austin, in England. 
We were visited by Mr. Smith of New York, a resident 

^ This lady has since died. 



VISITS. 55 

of the place, who takes an interest in antiquities, and 
Americans who visit Thebes. In the evening we had a 
call from our friends of the " Zarifa," Messrs. Noel and 
Ramsden, and our tea-table was well filled in the saloon 
of the " Gazelle." She was illuminated on the occasion 
of our arrival at Thebes by 64 colored lanterns, strung 
along the decks. 



LETTER VIII. 

AT THEBES. VISIT TO THE OPPOSITE TEMPLES AND TOMBS. 

ARRIVAL OP THE SONS OF THE VICEROY. RECEP- 
TION ON BOARD THEIR STEAMER. DEPARTURE FROM 

THEBES. STEAM SUGAR-WORKS AT ERMENT. ARRIVAL 

AT ESNEH. ITS TEMPLE. INVITATION OF AND VISIT 

TO THE PRINCES. 

At Thebes, the weather was fine, calm, and clear, with 
thermometer at 53° at sunrise, and 75° at 2 to 4 p. m. 
There was little variation from this during the three 
days we remained here. The first morning we crossed 
the river to make an excursion on donkeys to see the 
temples, a guide, donkey-boys, and girls, with jars of water 
on their heads, attending us. The two Colossi, or sitting 
statues, on the plain, were first visited. They were erected 
by King Amunoph, on the great " Kingsway " leading to 
Luxor. Their length is 53 feet, 18 feet 3 inches across 
the shoulders, 16 feet from shoulder to elbows, \Q^ from 
crown of head to shoulders, and 19 feet 8 inches from 
knees to soles of the feet. 

We next went to the ruins of the temple palace of 
Medinet Habou, classed amongst the largest edifices of 
Egypt. The royal castle of Rameses III., a young Pha- 
raoh king, has three pyramidal towers, two in front and 



MEDINBT HABOU. 57 

one in rear, with court, windows, and balconies richly 
sculptured. This Avas once a royal harem. 

At the right is a succession of temples several hundred 
feet long, with gigantic pylons and columns, which with 
the halls are all sculptured over their entire surfaces with 
bas-reliefs representing the deeds and greatness of Ram- 
eses, and the triumphs of the Pharaoh kings over their 
enemies in Asia. The scenes of battles, marching armies, 
triumphal return with prisoners, would take a hundred 
of my pages to describe fully, and the extent, amount of 
labor, and beauty of execution surpass belief. The whole 
is sadly mutilated, but 3,000 years ago it must have been 
beautiful, especially the coloring, some of which yet 
remains. 

Two hours were spent in examining this vast pile of 
ruins, and then w-e mounted to the top walls, and thence 
through one of the upper tower windows into the same 
to take our luuch, after which we went to the Memno- 
nium, which for noble proportions and symmetry of its 
architecture, is considered one of the most celebrated 
works of Egyptian art. The propylon is 234 feet in 
length, and pi-incipal edifice 600 feet long by 200 broad, 
with 6 courts, 6 chambers, and 160 columns. At the en- 
trance of the second court once sat the colossal figure of 
King Rameses II., large fragments of which are scattered 
about, though a part remains intact. It was the largest 
statue ever made by the Egyptians, measuring 60 feet 
high, and weighing 900 tons. It is of splendid reddish 
granite, without flaw or seam, finely polished, and cut 
with hieroglyphics. It was in one mass, and brought 
from the Cataracts of the Nile, 200 miles distant. On 



58 LETTER VIII. 

the statue was inscribed, " I am the King of Kings, Osi- 
mandyas ; if any one wish to know how great I am, and 
where I lie, let him surpass one of my works." 

I omit any further description, and conclude our day's 
jo^^rney by a ride to the Temple Palace of Koornah, 
about a mile from the river, opposite Karnak. It was 
begun by Osirei, completed by Rameses III., and dedi- 
cated to Amun, the Jupiter of Egypt. 

We returned by 5 p. m. to our boat, and re-crossed to 
the "Gazelle," on board of which the Governor, Consul, 
and some friends were entertained in the evening. Our 
companions, the " Cleopatra " and the " Zarifa," left during 
the night. 

The next day was spent in visiting the tombs of the 
priests in the Vale of Assasif. The Governor sent a 
guard with us, to keep us from being annoyed by a crowd 
asking for backsheesh and offering antique relics. 

The hills west of the Memnonium are full of tombs, 
built by wealthy priests of the 26th dynasty, 700 years 
before Christ, and are remarkable for their extent and the 
quantity of sculpture and materials with which they are 
ornamented. That belonging to the priest Petamunap, 
is the largest, being, as they all are, hewn out of the 
solid rock, and to the extent in apartments and passages 
of 862 feet in length, with a space of 230,809 cubic feet. 
•The first is a court, 103 feet long by 76 broad, leading 
to a smaller one supported by pillars, and several others 
in succession with columns. From thence by passages 
and descending staii's other apartments are reached. All 
of the entire sui'faces are covered with sculpture, but the 
beauty of this, as well as the other tombs, is gone, by a 



THE MEMNONIUM. 59 

wholesale mutilation, most of the columns being carried 
off. 

Those in the mountain Abd-el-Koornah were next ex- 
amined, of which No. 35 is the most interesting, though 
inferior in size to that preceding. It is remarkable for 
faithfully portraying scenes on its walls, novel as they 
are interesting. Innumerable figures in bas-relief and 
colored represent processions of black and red men bring- 
ing presents of leopards, monkeys, hides, dried fruit, and 
ebony ; other men of a pale red color, with presents of 
vases, necklaces, &c. ; Egyptians with gold rings, monkeys, 
leopards, ivory, ostrich eggs, feathers, giraffes, hounds 
with collars, and oxen ; Northern nations with gloves, 
vases, horses, a carriage, elephants, and ivory. AH these 
presents are being laid before Pharaoh, who is sitting upon 
his throne attended by his secretaries, who are noting 
down the presents. Egyptian artisans of various kinds 
are represented, such as carpenters, rope-makers, sculp- 
tors, brick-makers, workers of metals, painters, and many 
others, giving a good idea of the manners and customs of 
the ancient Egyptians. 

After spending about three hours under ground in 
examining these and others, we rode to the Memnonium 
under a scorching sun, and spread our lunch in the cool 
shades of the columns of the temple, where we remained 
for nearly two hours. The ladies had enjoyed the sub- 
terranean researches, and experienced no disagreeable 
sensation from the air of the tombs, which is perfectly 
dry, and without offensive odor. 

We reached our Dahab^eh at 4 P. M., to find the saloon 
at a temperature of 80 degrees. 



60 LETTER VIII. 

The three princes, sons of Ismail Pasha, Viceroy of 
Egypt, being expected, preparations were made on shore 
to receive them. Our lanterns were all put in requisi- 
tion, and lighted on the landing in front of the Consul's. 
They ari'ived with three steamers at 7 p. m., but did not 
land. 

The next day, the princes visited Karnak, and on their 
return we received an invitation through our Consul to 
be presented to them in the evening on board their 
steamer. Late in the afternoon, we attended an exhi- 
bition of Arab horsemanship got up for their entertain- 
ment, and were seated near them. The lads were dressed 
in European suits of blue, with the fez, and seated on an 
elegant divan. Their names are Tewfik (the Prince Im- 
perial, and heir to the throne), 1 3 years old ; Hassan and 
Huseyn, of the respective ages of 10 and 1 1 years. Hav- 
ing sent our cards, our whole party went on board at 8 
p. M., and were presented by Sherif Pasha, late minister 
of Public Woi'ks, and now member of the Conseil d'^Jtat. 

They were on the quarter-deck, and remained seated 
on a divan of gilt frame, upholstered with satin damask 
covering, there being another of the same placed opposite, 
with four chairs to match, for the use of the guests. 
The ladies were permitted to salute them with the hands, 
while the gentlemen only touched the fez they wore, as 
we were each presented by name. After being seated, 
pipes and coffee were handed us. The former were stud- 
ded with diamonds, with amber mouthpieces, and richly 
decorated, the bowls attached to the long stems resting 
on the floor. The ladies, according to etiquette, conde- 
scended to imbibe a whiff or two of the fragrant Latakia. 



ERMENT. 61 

Conversation in French was carried on with them and 
their preceptor and physician for half an hour, when we 
took leave. The latter, Selim Bey, accompanied us to 
our boat, where he was entertained with champagne and 
cigarettes. 

The following morning was cloudless and beautiful as 
ever, without any air stirring to ruffle the deep, broad 
mass of silently moving water. Starting on our voyage, 
tracking, of course, had to be resorted to. We were 
accompanied by three other Dahabeehs, all of us being 
towed till we reached Erment, where we stopped in the 
afternoon to examine the steam sugar-works of the Vice- 
roy. These, next to those of Rhoda, are the largest in 
the world. The buildings and all the appurtenances and 
machinery, under a French engineer, were in excellent 
order, the boilers and metal coolers bright and clean. 
Twenty revolving kettles, making 1200 revolutions a 
minute, converted the damp brown sugar into a dry 
white, in five minutes. 

Returning to our boat, we witnessed a most gorgeous 
sunset, and an immense number of geese in successive 
flocks, their screams filling the air, as their crooked 
lines sailed over us. The bright moon soon threw her 
radiant light over the scene, and was reflected in the 
mirrored river. 

The next day was a repetition of the same weather. 
We took a stroll ashore, saw women with rings in their 
noses, men nearly naked, and children entirely so, — no 
new sight to us. A mass of pelicans, geese, and ducks 
were on a sand-bar, which would have been a harvest for 
one of Lord Landsborough's swivels. The steamers, with 



62 LETTER VIII. 

the princes on board the largest, passed us and received 
a salute, which was returned, the princes waving their 
handkerchiefs. 

A breeze sprang up, and carried us in gallant style to 
Esneh, which was gay with flags, streamers, and decora- 
tions on four steamers and some Government boats. Our 
fleet, of three American and two English Dahabeehs, en- 
hanced the beauty of the scene. The princes were there, 
and preparations being made for illuminations, in which 
we joined. We went immediately to visit the temple 
in the midst of the town, the interior of which, cleared 
out by Mehemet Ali, discloses a beautifully proportioned 
portico, with 24 immense columns 19 feet in circumference, 
and 65 feet in height, with capitals of papyrus, doura, 
palm, date, and vine leaves, disposed . of in charming 
order in tulip form. This palace was built in the reigns 
of Claudius, Vespasian, and Titus, three sides of which, 
outside, yet lie buried beneath the debris of the town. 
A half mile down the river brought us to the palace 
of Mehemet Ali, in front of which, arbors of palms and 
decorations in honor of the princes were erected. 

We were there met by their preceptor and physician, 
who informed us it was the fourth annivei'sary of the 
Viceroy's accession to the throne of Egypt, that it would 
give the princes pleasure to have us attend a soiree on 
board that evening, and that they would call and accom- 
pany us from our boat at 9| o'clock. We accepted their in- 
vitation, and were then conducted over the gardens of the 
palace, and bouquets of flowers presented to the ladies. 
The "Gazelle" was again illuminated, as were also the four 
steamers of the Viceroy's other boats, and the landing. At 



RECEPTION BY THE PRINCES. 63 

the appointed time, the gentlemen came, when our musi- 
cal crew conveyed us by the river to the steamer, singing 
all the while their Arab songs, much to the enjoyment 
of the princes. The quarter-deck of the steamer was dec- 
orated with palms and flags, an awning with sides spread, 
and the whole brilliantly lighted. "We were received as 
before, except with greater cordiality, and were told that 
had not the breeze sprung up that day, a steamer would 
have been detailed to tow us to Esneh for this occasion. 
Two gentlemen from Philadelphia, in another American 
boat, were the only recipients with our party of this hos- 
pitality. Coffee and pipes were followed by a spirited 
conversation in French for an hour, during which I con- 
versed most of the time with the youngest prince, next to 
whom I sat. Our conversation was about Egypt, Turkey, 
and America, and resources of the latter. He reminded 
me that the mosque of St. Sophia at Constantinople 
was once a Christian church, and his conversation dis- 
played considerable modesty and intelligence for one of 
his years. Champagne, cake, and fruit were handed 
round ; afterwards 005*60 for the gentlemen, and tea for 
the ladies. As the latter were about to take leave, each 
of the princes rose from the divan and handed them ele- 
gant bouquets. 

We returned at 11 o'clock to our boat, highly gratified 
with this unlooked-for episode in life on the Nile. 



LETTER IX. 

ON THE VOYAGE. PASS SILSILLIS. TEMPLE OP OMBOS. 

APPROACH TO ASSOUAN. ARRIVAL AND SALUTES EX- 
CHANGED WITH THE STEAMERS OP THE PRINCES. 

CHANGE OF RIG OF THE " GAZELLE " FOR HOME VOYAGE. 

VISIT TO PHIL^ BY MOONLIGHT. — DEATH OF DR. 

BROWNELL. ELEPHANTINE ISLAND. A BOAT EXCUR- 
SION AROUND IT. 

The day succeeding that of our entertainment by the 
princes at Esneh was spent at that place, where our 
crew had their second bread-baking. The Royal party 
left for the Cataract before us, and salutes were again ex- 
changed as they passed. We left with a good breeze, 
which soon died away. The following day, Sunday, was 
perfectly clear and calm. The events were : Overtaking 
the "Nubia," or " Cairo," on which were Drs. Post and 
Brownell of New York, whom we had met before ; a Sun- 
day service, as usual, of reading an appropriate historical 
portion of the Old Testament, and singing familiar sacred 
hymns ; a short walk ashore ; the meeting of an English 
and two American Dahabeehs bound down ; an excessive 
heat of 108° in the sun; a slight breeze; seeing about a 
thousand geese congregated on a sand-bar very near us 
(they probably knew it was Sunday) ; the passing of the 



OMBOS. 65 

mountain and quarries of Silsilis by moonlight ; another 
cahii, and a tie up for the night. 

A succession of cahns and light variable breezes 
brought us to Orabos the next day. The three steamers 
of the princes, that had stopped the two nights previous, 
overtook and passed us, salutes being exchanged as usual. 
We landed to explore the ruins of this temple, or the 
smaller portions of it, once of immense size. Only a por- 
tico with 13 columns remains, standing in a fine situa- 
tion overlooking the river, and three quarters buried in 
sand. It was built, like those of Thebes, from the sand- 
stone quarries of Silsilis, by Ptolemseus Philometer and 
Dionysius. Our progress towards Assouan was slow, but 
not tedious. We had again to tie up for want of wind, 
and at midnight our old friends of the " Zarifa " passed 
us, floating down with the current, having "done" the 
First Cataract of the Nile, and now on their return. 

The following day, the 22d of January, vras, as regards 
■weather, a repetition of the preceding ones, the ther- 
mometer ranging from 50° to 75° in our saloon. We 
were near our voyage's end ; the scenery became materi- 
ally changed, and the hills on each side of the river were 
more rocky, drawing nearer together, leaving only a nar- 
row strip of land bordering on the river, cultivated with 
small patches of lupins in full blossom, tobacco, and vari- 
ous kinds of vegetables. Very few birds of any kind 
were seen, and none of the larger tribe of them. The 
heights around Assouan became visible, and a breeze 
which had sprung up brought us to the town at noon. 
The Viceroy's steamers were there, dressed very gay 
with flags. Our salute of 10 guns was returned as we 

5 



66 LETTER IX. 

ran past them and made fast to the beautiful island of 
Elephantine, opposite the town, it being preferable for 
mooring to the ordinary pla,ce on the other side of the 
river. Our Di^agoman, El Adli, immediately took us 
over to visit the bazaars and the sights of this border 
town, lying between Egypt and Nubia. Here were to 
be seen the barbarian Arabs, with their fine aquiline fea- 
tures and hair in braids, but considered no better than 
robbers on the desert ; Nubians, the females mostly 
with a ring through one of the nostrils, their persons 
having only a scanty covering ; children, without regard 
to sex, entii-ely naked ; and many other objects different 
from those we had seen in Lower Egypt. A stroll after- 
wards on the island bi'ought a troop of men, women, and 
children after us to sell pebbles and trinkets, or beg for 
hacksheesh. 

Our captain and crew now proceeded to strip the masts 
of the " Gazelle " of her spars, and arrange them for the 
downward voyage. The long forward one, of 60 feet, was 
fastened fore and aft from mast to mast just overhead, 
and the short one aft shifted to the foremast, to carry sail 
sufficient for steering, the cu.rrent and our ten sweeps, 
manned by as many sinewy-armed "men of bronze," 
being sufficient when drifting. 

Our captain and some of the crew whose homes were 
in the vicinity, got a three days' leave of absence, to 
meet us on a certain day a few miles below, and our 
Dragoman took the command. This night our illumina- 
tions, with those on the opposite side, with a full moonlight, 
all reflected on the calm waters of the Nile, was a picture 
not easily to be forgotten. But another and far more 
beautiful one was in store for us. 



THE ISLAND OP PHIL^. 67 

Who that has heard of the wonders of this river has 
not heard also of the enchantment of moonhght at 
Philse 1 This lovely isle needs not the bright moonbeams 
to clothe it in beauty, for it is ever lovely under any 
aspect. Few have the good fortune to see it reposing in 
a perfectly calm, mirrored basin, with a cloudless sky, 
and under a flood of golden light such as the lunar orb in 
this clime can only give. The time was propitious : the 
moon rose at 8 ; we determined to start then for the 
island, and visit the temples, foiu' miles distant. It being 
a somewhat rough ride, besides a rougher walk, it was 
considered too much for the ladies by our cautious and 
careful El Adli. Crossing the river as the glorious orb 
touched the eastern hills, we found the donkeys, boys, a 
runner, and a lantern-bearer ready. The luminary was 
extinguished, and by the rays of the " golden moon " we 
soon cleared the town, and were on a fast trot in the 
desert. Reaching the moorings of Phila>, where numerous 
craft and a small steamer were lying, we could hear the 
roar of the Cataract, or rapids, four miles distant, in the 
stillness of the night. These were below us, being in 
the bend of the river across which we had ridden. Here 
the Eeis of the Cataract, by order from the Governor of 
Af3gouan, sent forward, from a mile distant, a boat with 
four men to take us over to the island and back. Dis- 
mounting, we walked by a rough and tortuous path over 
and among smooth black stones, while curious piles of 
huge rocks of the same color reared their heads around 
us in overhanging fragments. Emerging from these, the 
opening disclosed a calm, placid sheet of water, with no 
apparent outlet. A few steps farther, on approaching its 



68 



LETTER IX. 



high marginal bank, the Island of Philee, with its ruined 
temples and the one yet nearly pei'fect, with all its 
columns standing, came into view. The latter, near the 
river, has a battlement wall in front, rising about eighty 
feet from the brink, with a flight of steps partly em- 
bedded in sand. After crossing, we landed, clambered up 
the steep bank, and crossed the ruins of the old brick 
Coptic town of the 7th century, which disfigures the 
place. Entering and passing through the extensive 
temple by candlelight, we emerged, with full moonlight, 
into its open entrances, having long colonnades in front, 
the corridors supported by 36 columns on each side. We 
then proceeded to the open temple on the margin of the 
river. A fine view of the whole scene, the island and its 
lesser neighbors, the surrounding hills and lake-like 
water, was best seen from a rocky eminence at the 
southern point of the island. The effects of pistol-shots 
were very audible, in three distinct echoes, from this spot. 
After spending an hour, our boatmen rowed us a mile 
down to where we left our donkeys : our songs alone 
broke the stillness of a scene enjoyed only by a few in 
these modern times. Here, in the days of the Ptole- 
mies, 200 years before Christ, the temple of Isis wit- 
nessed the strange rites of thousands, and centuries saw 
these temples thronged with the worshippers of its 
strange votaries. In these, in the year 451 a. d., the 
Romans signed articles of peace with the tribes of 
Blemmyes and Ethiopian Bedouins, who were the last 
worshippers of Isis in Philse. This beautiful island, at 
the head of the Catai'act, and on the borders of ISTubia, 
is claimed to be the burial-place of Osiris. On nearly 



DEATH OP DB. BROWNELL. 69 

all sides it is hemmed in by high black rocks heaped up 
in the most grotesque forms. The open space to the 
eastward leads over a belt of desert bordered on the 
river by a strip of vegetation and wide-spread acacia- 
trees and tall palms. Our ride back to Assouan was 
accomplished in an hour, and from Messrs. Moorhead and 
Leach,- of Philadelphia, just arrived there in the " Bund," 
we learned the melancholy intelligence of the death of 
Dr. Brownell on board the " Nubia " that morning, and 
that the boat had put back to Edfou for his interment in 
a Coptic tomb. Thoixgh not unexpected, from his condi- 
tion (the last stage of consumption), it was sad to realize 
that one we had conversed with only three days before 
was no more, and that his remains were to be laid so far 
from home. 

The sky was cloudless on the day following ; not a 
zephyr stirred the waters of the Nile, and our flags at 
half mast appeared sad and drooping. We took a stroll 
on the island to view the ruins of a temple biiilt by 
Amunph III., dedicated to the god Kneph, and a gateway 
of the time of Alexander the Great. Here was to be 
seen part of a statue and altar of red granite dedicated 
to Amun. The view to the south is charming. High 
sandstone hills, with the fine yellow sand blown in drifts 
like snow ; their summits crowned by old ruins ; the im- 
mediate shores piled up with huge black smooth and hol- 
lowed boulders, looking like skeleton heads of elephants 
or mastodons, and a variety of grotesque forms. The 
island is nearly a mile in length and a quarter broad, 
having charming groves of palms and acacias. The 
Nubians have a village here, and cultivate the land. We 



70 LETTER IX. 

saw some women with only a short skirt of cloth ai'ound 
the waist, grinding doura between two flat stones, which 
they were rubbing togethei*. A fringe veil to hide the 
face was formed of their hair, braided in fine twists, and 
stained brown with henna. Though they were entirely 
naked above the waist, their modesty impelled them to 
conceal their faces. The weather, and water like a mir- 
ror, was so inviting, that, as the sun declined near the 
western hills, we took our small boat for a row around 
the entire island. I cannot devote the space to describe 
the beauties of that two houi's' excursion. The islands, 
rocks, and every object in sight, even the distant sand- 
hills, were so perfectly reflected in the water, that the 
dividing line of substance and shadow was hard to dis- 
tinguish. There are seventeen rocky islets between the 
island and the western shore. 

In the evening, our friends of the " Bund " visited us 
and spent a merry evening. As they were bound up the 
First Cataract in their small but pretty Dahabeeh, we 
accepted an invitation to accompany them. The excite- 
ment of witnessing the singular method of the amphi- 
bious men of the Cataract in getting a boat up the 
rapids, was a novelty I wished to see, and a description 
of it, with another visit to Philse, will serve as interesting 
items for another letter. 



LETTER X. 

ANOTHER VISIT TO PHIL^. ENCOUNTER WITH A NUBIAN. 

EGYPTIAN JUSTICE. THE MEN OP THE CATARACT. RETURN 

TO THE "gazelle." ASCENT OP THE CATARACT IN THE 

"bund." COMMENCEMENT OP OUR RETURN VOYAGE TO 

CAIRO. QUARRIES OP SILSILIS. TEMPLE OP EDPOU. A 

PLEASANT MEETING OP FRIENDS. 

While awaiting at Assouan a strong favorable wind for 
the " Bund " to ascend the Cataract, another visit to Philse 
was decided on, to occupy the entire day, and arrange- 
ments were made as before for donkeys, &c. We left at 
10 A. M. with the ladies, and in crossing the intervening 
desert, met quantities of camels bearing soldiers, with 
their wives and families, returning from Nubia. 

Arriving opposite the charming island, a small Daha- 
beeh was waiting to convey us over. A crowd of men, 
women, and children, all Nubians, were assembled to sell 
us silver and other trinkets, or to get backsheesh. We 
were so annoyed and closely pressed, that the Icoorhash (a 
whip made from the hide of a rhinoceros) was needed 
to keep them at bay, and had to be applied to prevent a 
couple of persistent men from taking passage with us. 

We landed at the old ruined stairs, entered the rear 
portals of the Temple of Isis, and examined the interior 



72 LETTER X. 

of its courts and rooms. Then, ascending to the roof, 
where a fine view of the island and its singularly beauti- 
ful suri'oundings was had, our lunch was spread in the 
open porch of the temple, the crew and several of the 
natives — some of whom had swum over — being seated 
among the fragments of the ruins around us, looking on 
with curious eyes, anxious to get something. 

Returning to the boat to re-cross, and awaiting our 
Dragoman, a distant noise of voices attracted my atten- 
tion. One of our crew was seen to spring on board, 
seize a pole, and rush np the bank. I divined some 
trouble, threw off my coat, seized the Tcoorhash, and was 
followed by others to the scene near the landing, where 
El Adli and two nearly naked Nubians were gesticulating 
furiously, one of the latter, with a short-handled hoe, in a 
threatening attitude. I sprang in between them, and 
learned in a breath from our Dragoman that the barbarian 
was about to strike him. I instantly raised my hoorhash, 
which he dodged, and ran towards the river, closely pur- 
sued by me. He dropped his hoe as I approached him, 
and sprang into the river. A shot fired in the air by one 
of our party behind me frightened him, and he dived. 
As he rose, I levelled my revolver at him, when he again 
disappeared like a duck. Twice I repeated the experi- 
ment, with the same success, when I felt satisfied, and 
disposed to laugh at the fright I gave this demi-savage. 
Not so El Adli, who was enraged that such an outrage 
should be perpetrated on him, the Dragoman and repre- 
sentative, as he said, of " European people." It appears 
that the Nubian (the one with the hoe) had abused 
El Adli for being the servant of the despised Christians, 



EGYPTIAN JUSTICE. 73 

which led to a rejoinder, at which the Nubian and his 
companion threatened him. The former was about to 
strike the Dragoman, who was perfectly unarmed, when 
I came to the rescue. 

The sequel is a remarkable comment on Egyptian jus- 
tice, which we had no part in the administration of. 
El Adli caused the two men to be arrested and sent to 
Assouan the next day, on a complaint to the Governor, 
and on his own statement of the facts, before we knew 
anything of it, they received each, as El Adli informed 
us, a hundred lashes, to intimidate others from insulting 
and assaulting the " representatives " of Europeans. 

On returning to the shore after buying rings of silver, 
&c., from Khartoum, and running the gauntlet of a crowd 
of the most importunate beggars I ever saw, we mounted 
our donkeys and rode westward an hour towards the Cata- 
ract. We arrived at the rocky shore of the second gate 
of the great rapid, and had not time to descend a small 
beach near a cove, before a score of naked Nubians and 
Arabs were seen among the black rocks in the rapids to 
spring into the rushing waters, and, with powerful and 
rapid strokes, reach the beach near where we were stand- 
ing. Some of them were entirely naked, others with only 
a strip of cloth around their loins. They came rushing 
up to us like so many wild Indians, and demanded hacTc- 
sheesh for their exploit, which was distributed among them, 
when, they disappeared in the water to repeat the exhibi- 
tion, giving us time to take a look at the scene and make 
an escape before the ladies were subjected to another such 
annoyance ; but we were followed by a dozen good runners, 
who were got rid of by a handful of coppers thrown in 
the sand. 



74 LETTER X. 

On our return to Assouan, we rode by the celebrated 
quarries of red and green granite, where the obelisks of 
Luxor, Karnak, Heliopolis, Alexaudria, and the colossal 
statue of the Memnonium were obtained. An obelisk, 
100 feet in length and 8 in diameter, lies abandoned in its 
bed by the a,ncients, who found a flaw in it. We reached 
the " Gazelle " at six, and appreciated the merits of our 
most excellent cook, Achmet Shaheeu, in a good dinner, 
as usual, served up by Mahomed and Abouzed. 

The next morning, the light southerly breeze which had 
kept the " Bund " at her moorings, suddenly changed to 
the north, and our two friends came to accompany us on 
board of their Dahab^eh, to make the ascent of the First 
Cataract. El Adli engaged donkeys to follow us in case 
we reached the "second gate" before night, when we de- 
termined to leave the boat, as most of the interest is in 
passing the " first gate," we having seen Philae already. 

The " Bund " left at 11, with a stiff breeze, and under 
the pressure of her great foresail entered the eastern 
passage of Elephantine Island, and was soon among the 
rocks, guided by the skilful hands of the Reis of the Cat- 
aract and his assistants. The former is alone I'esponsible 
for any damage to the boat in the passage, and receives a 
large fee for himself and men for getting boats over. We 
reached the first gate, slowly and steadily gaining against 
the swift current, in two hours and a half Here we made 
fast to the rocks, and in fifteen minutes three hawsers, 
manned by thirty of the Cataract men and the crew, were 
bent on different points of rocks. For 10 minutes the}"- 
tugged away, aided by the force of the sail, but without 
gaining a foot. We then began to move slightly ; the 



PASSING THE FIRST CATARACT. 75 

men on the rocks, in the water, and on deck shouted and 
exerted themselves to the utmost, when a strong pufF of 
wind gave us a start. In about thirty minutes, we 
passed the first rapid, and sailed on boldly among the 
rocks in a swift current, till we came to the second rapid. 
Here the dashing swimmers, with ropes in their teeth, 
carried hawsers aci-oss from I'ock to rock to hold us fast 
in case the wind should fail us. All the strength of the 
men was again put forth, with loud cries, and for 10 
minutes we just held our own way, and then slowly began 
to move. At one moment it seemed as though we were 
going upon a large rock close to our bows, but the strong- 
wind carried us past, aided by the skill of the Reis, and 
the first gate and second rapid were passed at three p. m., 
and the boat tied up for the day. 

We were not permitted to land before partaking of a 
sumptuous dinner by our liberal entertainers, which kept 
us on board till five o'clock, when we mounted our don- 
keys in waiting, and arrived at twilight at the landing 
of Assouan, where we found the " Cairo " and " Morning- 
Star " had arrived. We had a call in the evening from 
the two English gentlemen of the latter. 

The next day, January 26th, was the appointed one 
for starting on the downward passage. The weather was 
perfection, hardly a breeze to display our starry flags, 
while a salute of thirteen guns was fired as we all reluc- 
tantly turned our bow down stream. A slight breeze 
sprang up, when we met some friends making their 
wedding-tour up the Nile in a small, pretty, and swift 
Dahabeeh belonging to Abdallah Pasha. We made slow 
progress in drifting, as the wind was against us. The 



76 LETTER X. 

Egyptian steamer was met, whose passengers displayed 
an American flag forward as we passed them. We 
stopped at a village to take our Reis and some of the 
crew, who had left at Assouan on a four days' furlough, 
and an English Dahab^eh was spoken, by which we 
learned news of friends behind us. And thus ended the 
events of the day. 

The following one we landed at Silsilis. Here, it is 
said, an Egyptian king put a chain across, fastened to 
two upright rocks on either side of the river, where the 
sandstone hills approach to within 1100 feet of each 
other. We visited several grottos, some built by Horus, 
one of the last Pharaohs. The blocks cut from these 
immense and interesting quarries wei'e sent to Thebes 
and other cities by rafts or boats. The granite from 
Assouan was conveyed by land for the obelisks and 
colossi, the largest of which employed 2,000 men three 
years in its removal during the reign of Amasis. We ex- 
changed salutes with a French Dahabeeh, and nothing 
more of interest occurred during the day. 

The 28 th was calm and clear, when we stopped to visit 
the Temple of Edfou. We had a very interesting ride of 
a mile to reach the town, which has a large population of 
industrious Copts, Arabs, and some Nubians. They ap- 
peared very civil, and most of the women had their faces 
uncovered. We saw some Nubian girls in the streets 
with nearly their whole bodies uncovered, having only a 
strip of leather with a deep fringe around their loins. As 
our guide-books have little to say about this temple, 
describing it as being mostly buried under the ruins of 
the old Coptic town, we were greatly surprised and 



THE TEMPLE OF EDFOU. 77 

pleased to find it the most extensive, grand, and interest- 
ing we had yet seen. (Murray's new edition for 1867 
alludes to its being recently restored to view, but gives 
no description, and the following, with measurements, are 
entirely my own.) It was excavated to its foundations 
by Said Pasha, late viceroy, who caused the debris of the 
town to be thoroughly cleaned out, and exposed to view the 
best-preserved temple in Egypt. Unlike others, it has an 
especial guard, and neither natives nor visitors are allowed 
to enter without being attended by the officer stationed 
there. It is surrounded by a wall about 60 feet in 
height on three sides, forming an immense oblong square, 
having at the only entrance a huge pyramidal propylon 
200 feet in length, 30 wide, and 100 feet high. Its 
towers have in each 250 steps of 5 inches rise, leading to 
spacious apartments in different elevations, and to the 
roof, where one of the finest views on the Nile may be 
had, and a bird's-eye view of the town, with its busy 
people directly below the walls. The temple has a pro- 
naos, adytum, and sekos. The great court has three 
sides, with 34 columns leading to the pronaos, which has 
18 immense pillars, 9 feet in diameter at the base, and 
about 50 in height, and is 50 feet by 140, including 
walls, which are 9 feet thick at base and 6 feet at the 
top. The adytum, with 12 columns, is a little inferior in 
size to the pronaos, and has four rooms on each side, 
from one of which a flight of 1 00 steps leads to its roof 
and that of the naos. Two other small courts, with two 
rooms on each side, separate this from the naos, or inner 
part of the temple, which has no outlet but its huge 
pyramidal-shaped entrance, corresponding in style with 



78 LETTER X. 

the others, all m a dii-ect line with the propylon entrance. 
There are no columns in this sacred part of the temple, 
but in the centre stands a large upright granite sai'co- 
phagus, in the form of a chapel, with a flattened pyra- 
mid or elliptical arch. It has a passage-way on its three 
sides, which is separated from the outer walls by nine 
rooms. We ascended to the roof, which is composed of 
blocks of stone 22 feet by 6, and 4 thick, and walked 
around on the summit of its huge walls, 20 feet above 
the roof and 60 from the paved passage below, which 
separates the temple from the outside surrounding walls 
of same height. The cap-stones are 6 feet by 6, and 4 
thick, dovetailed, and fastened with hiage clamps. I 
could not ascertain the entire length of this enormous 
edifice. It was founded by Ptolemy Philometer, and 
completed by Euergetes the Second and his successors. 
The names of Alexander and Cleopatra are frequently 
inscribed on its walls, the interior and exterior of which, 
together with the columns and ceilings, are completely 
covered with figures and hieroglyphics in bas-relief, in a 
most remarkable state of preservation. It is a wonderful 
fact, that the immense walls of this edifice are without a 
crack, and are as level in their joints of ashlers, and 
as plumb as when finished, over 2,000 years ago. No 
traveller should omit devoting a half-day at least to 
this gigantic and well-preserved monument of ancient 
masonry and art. 

Having seen from the roof of the temple, a Dahabeeh 
coming up the river slowly, we hurried back to our boat, 
having spent less than three hours in inspecting the 
beautiful sculptures of figures on these walls, as we 



VISITORS. 79 

expected to meet our friends, Mr. and Mrs. Hiram Hitch- 
cock, of New York, in the " Nightingale." It proved to 
be they, and joyous salutes were exchanged as they 
neared and recognized us. An hour was spent in mutual 
visits, when they pursued their upward voyage with a 
fair wind. A short time after, we were again drifting 
with the current. 



LETTER XL 

EL KAB. — SHOOTING EXCURSION. ERMENT. THE VICE- 
ROY'S SUGAR-WORKS. CHASE AFTER A PELICAN. AT 

THEBES AGAIN. KARNAK. ITS TEMPLES. VISIT TO 

THE TOMBS OP THE KINGS. FAREWELL TO THEBES. 

The day following that spent at Edfou, where the re- 
mains of our esteemed countryman, Dr. Brownell, were 
recently entombed, was noticeable as being partially 
cloudy, the first time for some weeks. At El Kab, 
where we stopped to see the old tombs a mile distant, 
the ride on donkeys was a splendid one ; and as game 
was observed to be plentiful, on our return we took our 
fowling-pieces and had three hours' good shooting along 
the shore and in the doura-fields. Among the birds 
killed were several beautiful specimens of hawks, white 
ibis, &c. The whole plain for miles was covered with 
young wheat, and the doura, just being harvested, had 
stalks ten feet in height, which were being dried in 
the sun, and the ears in heaps, sepai'ate, in the same 
manner. After leaving in our boat for Erment, we met 
a French and American Dahabeeh, and exchanged salutes 
as usual. « 

•Next day, the strong head wind impeded our progress. 
This was satisfactory to us, though not so to our Drago- 



THE viceroy's SUGAR- WORKS. 81 

man, who took us by the trip ; but he bore all such de- 
tentions like a philosopher. Erment was not reached, 
but the time passed rapidly in the various employments 
of writing, reading, games, &c. In one of our sallies 
from our Dahabeeh in the small boat, after game, on the 
sand-bars, I shot a large and beautiful white crane, with 
black wings and splendid crest. It is called a " sultan," 
and measured 4 feet 3 inches from its beak to the end 
of its short tail, and 5 feet 7 inches from tip to tip of 
wings extended. 

Erment was reached the following day, and on land- 
ing, a sorry lot of donkeys were obtained, to ride to the 
temple, four miles distant. The governor and superin- 
tendent of the Viceroy's sugar-works, whom we had met 
with the princes at our interview at Thebes, kindly sent 
us a horse and two excellent donkeys, one of them, a 
large white one, of the Mecca breed, being worth $500. 
It was market-day, and during our very pleasant ride 
on an avenue of three miles of acacia-trees, we met a 
continuous throng of country people of all kinds and con- 
ditions, curious to behold. On one side of us, an im- 
mense field of sugar-cane, extending as far as the eye 
could reach, was just being cut and carried to the mill. 
The Governor informed me he employed in these works 
2,600 men and boys, and 1,250 camels. A continual file 
of the latter reached three miles on their way to and 
from the mill. On the other side of the avenue were 
fields of wheat " in the milk," and barley a few inches 
above ground. The ruins of the temple proved to be 
not worth visiting, there being only three or four col- 
umns standing, the rest having been used for building 
purposes. 6 



82 LETTER XI. 

Our ride, however, proved a very pleasant one, and 
after calling on the Governor, inviting him on board, and 
entertaining him a while, we left for Thebes, only six 
miles distant. We met a large new Dahabeeh, called the 
" Memphis," under English colors, and near Thebes saw 
quantities of pelicans on a sand-bar. I went in pursuit 
with the Doctor in the small boat, manned by two of our 
sailors, and we succeeded in wounding one with our 
double-barrels; but after a chase it escaped us, as we had 
left our ammunition behind, and the water was too shallow 
for us. Besides, as our boatmen in the water neared the 
huge bird, it managed to elude them. 

The "Gazelle" arrived at Thebes before us, and we 
had a long pull, with nothing to show for it. On going 
to the Consul's, the venerable Mustapha handed us a 
large number of papers and letters from home, that had 
been retained for our return. 

Karnak the incomparable, which had been held in 
reserve on our first visit here, the ruins of which had 
been so extolled, was now the first object to be seen, and 
the morning of the 1st of February saw us mounted for 
the greatest of all the ruins of Egypt. In half an hour 
we passed the distance once spanned by a broad avenue 
of two miles in length, bordered with 1,200 gigantic 
sphinxes, leading from the Temple of Thebes to the great 
gateway of that of Karnak, through which we entered. 

Having first ridden a circuit of two miles around the 
several temples and gateways, we entered the mammoth 
edifice by what was once another avenue of sphinxes, at 
its front looking towards the river. No pen can give 
an adequate idea of the gi-andeur of these magnificent 



THE TEMPLE OP KARNAK. 83 

remains of ancient Thebes, neither will my limits permit 
me to give more than some measurements and a brief 
description. Denon concludes a partial description which 
he attempted, by declaring that " one is fatigued with 
writing and reading, and stunned with the thought of 
such conception. It is hardly possible to believe, after 
having seen it, in the reality of the existence of so many 
buildings collected at a single point, in their dimensions, 
in the resolute perseverance which their construction 
required, and the incalculable expense of so much mag- 
nificence. On examination of these ruins, the imagination 
is wearied with the idea of describing them." Prime 
says, " It is a greater wonder than the Pyramids." 

Of the one hundred columns of the portico alone, the 
smallest are 7^ feet in diameter, and the largest 12 feet. 
The buildings comprising the chief temple are 1,200 feet 
long by 420 wide, and the space consecrated to its use 
is about a mile in diameter. This contains the ruins of 
numerous subordinate temples, gigantic gateways, with 
huge pylons, obelisks, and colossal figures, all covered, 
like every space of wall and column of the great temple, 
with elaborate scenes and hieroglyphics, either in exqui- 
site bas-relief, or deeply and beautifully cut in the stone. 
Entering the huge gateway, we came to a court 275 by 
330 feet, with a corridor and columns on each side. 
Through the centre of the court were the remains of two 
rows of six immense columns each, and of two colossal 
statues. Through another gateway the great Hall of 
Columns is entered, 330 by 170 feet, having through the 
centre two rows of columns each 12 feet at the base, and 
90 high, being the largest in the world. One hundred 



84 LETTER XI. 

and twenty-two other columns supported the roof of 
the sides of this vast hall, 102 of which ai-e now standing, 
each being 42 feet high, by 9 feet diameter at the base. 
Passing through this, between two lofty pyramidal towers 
into another court, having the remains of two obelisks, 
two other towers are passed, and another court entered, 
in which stands a red granite obelisk 92 feet high and 8 
at the base, its companion lying in a broken mass by its 
side. Tower after tower, court after court is passed, 
until finally the holy place, or Temple of Amun, the blue 
god, or Jupiter of the Egyptians, is reached. 

From this, still extending east from the river, is the 
palace of Thothmes the Third, with its 32 square and 20 
round columns, corresponding in size to the temple. Hav- 
ing feasted our eyes on all these wonders for hours, we 
took our lunch in the Hall of Columns, and then rode to 
the ruins of the temple of the cat-headed gods or sphinxes, 
of fine black giranite. There) must have been nearly a 
hundred of these originally, many of which are left, some 
nearly entire on their pedestals, others in broken frag- 
ments strewed around. An avenue 1,000 feet in length, 
bordered by colossal ram sphinxes, &g., once led from 
this to one of the principal soiithern gates, the huge 
pylons of which are now standing, and portions of the 
sphinxes yet remain. 

Passing back by the salt lakes within the enclosures of 
the temples, we examined the interesting scenes wrought 
in the exterior walls of the great edifice. On[the southern 
wall of the Hall of Columns, beside the entrance, is the 
colossal bas-relief of Shishak, mentioned in the Bible 
(1 Kings xiv. 25, and 2 Chronicles xii.), identified by his 



VIEW OP THEBES. 85 

cartouche. This King of Egypt is represented as receiv- 
ing the captured countries in his expedition to Jerusalem, 
among them the kingdom of Solomon. This identifica- 
tion was made the present century by Champollion, on 
his way to Upper Egypt, who read in an oval by the 
characters on it the name of Melek Aiudah, or the King 
of Judah. 

We next rode out of the front entrance to the gateway 
on the north side, now standing, the paint on the figures 
of which, in ochre, blue, and a beautiful red, is still 
fresh. A ride on the high mounds covering the walls 
around the temples afforded an extraoi'dinary picture of 
mingled beauty of nature and art. The mountains, of 
yellow limestone, against a bright blue sky, the river, 
like a mirror, with a broad carpet of bright green clumps 
of palm and other trees, and the remains of ancient 
Thebes, "the city of a hundred gates," as described by 
Homer, were spread out before us. Returning to our 
boat, the Governor and Mustapha Aga dined with us by 
appointment. Mohamed El Adli and our cook and ser- 
vants did wonders in providing and serving up a dinner 
in princely style. 

The following day was devoted to visiting the great 
tombs of the kings, far distant in the mountains opposite 
Thebes, requiring a good day's work to examine. The 
most celebrated are those of Belzoni, Bruce, and Nos. 6 
and 9. The first is that of King Sethos, father of Sesos- 
tris, and extends on an inclined plane, with 200 steps, 
320 feet in length and 90 perpendicular depth, into the 
sides of the mountain of limestone rock, with several 
apartments, pillared and arched, entirely covered with 



86 LETTER XI. 

sculptured figures in bas-relief, and colored. The Bruce 
tomb extends 405 feet into the mountain, through solid 
rock, and was the resting-place of King Rameses the 
Third. The sarcophagus of granite is in Paris, minus the 
cover, which was carried to England. No. 9, that of 
Rameses the Fifth, is one of the finest tombs, and is 342 
feet long and 24 wide, with a vaulted hall at its termina- 
tion, supported by pillars. This is covered with curious 
figures representing the supposed condition of departed 
souls. No. 6, of Rameses the Seventh, is 243 feet in 
length, and contains some novel figures. We returned to 
our boat early in the afternoon, having ridden fifteen 
miles and explored 1,300 feet of a continual picture-gal- 
lery, under ground, by the light of candles (torches not 
being now allowed) carried in our hands. 

The day following, we took another ride to Karnak, to 
take a final view, and the next, after paying a last visit 
to the Memnonium and the two Colossi across the river, 
we cast off our fasts, and bid adieu to Thebes as the 
evening guns were celebrating the end of the long Mo- 
hammedan fast of thirty days. 



LETTER XII. 

ARRIVAL AT KENNBH. JAR-MAKING. VISITS TO AND FROM 

THE GOVERNOR. A DAY's SHOOTING. RUINS OF ABY- 

DUS. NIKILBH. PIGEON-SHOOTING. SIOOT. VIEW 

PROM STABL ANTAR. — MANFALOOT. A GALE OFF ABOO- 

FAYDA. RHODA. ITS GREAT SUGAR-WORKS. THE TOMBS 

• OF BBNI-HASSAN. ARRIVAL AT MINIEH. 

After leaving Thebes, the wind was so strong ahead 
the next two days, that we had to lie by the shore several 
times, which enabled us to have some good shooting. 
On arriving at Kenneh, the second day at noon, we all 
took donkeys and rode to town, a mile and a half distant. 
It being the last of the three days of feasting and rejoi- 
cing succeeding the fast of Ramadan, the place was more 
than ordinarily interesting. Wishing to see the process 
of making the celebrated water-jars that have been made 
here during 3,000 years, we went to one of the principal 
manufactories, where for backsheesh the workmen showed 
us the hand-moulding of the clay jars, vases, &c., on a 
turn-wheel, and done as skilfully and rapidly as glass- 
blowing. There are 14,000 inhabitants in this town, and 
the Governor here has a jurisdiction over a population of 
450,000, extending into Nubia. We called on him, when 
he had coffee and cigars served in Turkish fashion, and 



88 LETTER XII. 

presented flowers to the ladies. He and the resident phy- 
sician, who was present, spoke good French, and as we 
found them agreeable, they were invited to visit us in the 
evening on board. They accepted, and came with ser- 
vants and torches, the Governor bringing a handsome 
backgammon-board of Turkish manufacture to play with 
the ladies. They seemed much to enjoy their three hours' 
entertainment. 

We remained the next day for shooting, as game was 
abundant, while the ladies took another ride to town 
with El Adli. We had about four hours' very satisfac- 
tory sport, without having to go more than half a 
mile from our boat. Just as we were ready to leave, 
some American friends arrived in a Dahabeeh from the 
Cataract. The two succeeding days, strong head-winds 
prevailed, which obliged us to tie up twice, and with the 
exception of meeting a Dahabeeh and a steamer, the 
quiet of our happy home was disturbed by no incident, 
giving us the desired time for reading, writing, &c. 

The next morning, February 10th, found us lying at 
Bellianeh, 8 miles from Abydus, the ruins of which we 
had notified our Dragoman we desired to see. While 
we were getting ready for the ride, some of the natives 
on the bank of the river improvised a dance in the style 
of the Ghawazees. Our ride was uncommonly pleasant, 
with a breeze to cool the heat of a hot sun. Fields of 
wheat, barley, beans, linseed, and clover, the three last in 
full blossom, covered the entire plain, while a large num- 
ber of buffaloes, oxen, camels, black sheep, and goats 
were feeding upon the extensive fields of clover, watched 
by their owners, who with their families were distributed 



THE TEMPLE OP OSIRIS. 89 

over the landscape in high cane-built shelters, without 
roofs, opening to the south. 

Arriving at the temple, we found it sunken nearly to 
its roof in dirt and rubbish j but its interior had been 
excavated, into which we rode by a steep declivity. Four 
rows of huge columns, of curious but ungraceful pattern, 
supported a peculiarly built roof. On each side were 
seven arched apartments, the whole covered with finely 
executed and colored hieroglyphics. It was begun by 
Osiris the First, and finished by Rameses the Great. A 
quarter of a mile to the north of this are the remains of 
tbe lower portion of one of the most beautiful structures 
of ancient Egypt, now with its foundations buried up in 
sand and rubbish. This was the celebrated temple of 
Osiris, who, it is said, was buried here. It was finished 
by Rameses the Great, who enriched it by a magnificent 
sanctuary, the walls of which were faced with Oriental 
alabaster. Two colossal figures, two obelisks of red gran- 
ite, two of black granite, and many statues of the same 
material lie broken up and strewn around. 

On returning to our boat and starting for Sioot, we 
got on a sand-bar so fast, that it required the ballast to 
to be shifted and a hard tug at the warps, of five hours, 
to get off, during which the sailors were in the water a 
part of the time. The following day, we passed an Eng- 
lish boat, the " Ibis," bound up, and some sporting was 
had ashore while our men stopped to kill a sheep. The 
passenger steamer was met, with a large party of Ameri- 
cans, who saluted us by displaying the Stars and Stripes 
forward, they being under Egyptian colors. A high wind 
off Shekh Harida caused a rocking of our boat, for the 



90 LETTER XII. 

first time, to such a degree that obliged us to tie up a 
while. 

The morning of the 13th brought us to Nikileh, a 
Copt village not mentioned in the guide-books. It is a 
pretty place, and on going up the river, we had observed 
game to be plenty, especially pigeons, which determined 
us to stop on our return. On the fields, within a couple 
of miles of the town, we shot six dozen, among scattered 
birds, as it is rare to get at a large flock. We arrived 
early the next morning at Sioot, where we took a walk 
in the grounds and garden of a wealthy merchant be- 
fore leaving for the city, some distance from the river. 
It is the largest and most picturesque town of any in 
Upper Egypt. Its thirteen minarets, backed by the lofty 
range of the Libyan hills, look very pretty on approach- 
ing it by a causeway lined with trees and overlooking fine 
gardens. This, our second, visit was mainly to ascend 
Stabl Antar, visit the tombs, and get the magnificent 
view of the Libyan hills. Our donkeys carried us part 
way up, the rest of which, to the tombs, had to be ac- 
complished on foot. The subterranean receptacles for 
the dead were of little interest to us, after visiting those 
of the kings at Thebes, but on ascending farther to the 
summit, we were richly rewarded by the finest view we 
had yet seen in Egypt. The ranges of mountains on 
both sides of the Nile, the Libyan desert, extending as 
far as the eye could reach, in the clear atmosphere of 
Egypt, bordered by the bright and varied green shades 
of the rich valley, a fine bird's-eye view of the city, and, 
almost directly below us, that of the extensive, beau- 
tifully white, and neatly built cemetery, rivalling in 



MANFALOOT. 91 

extent and beauty the city of the living, the serpentine 
Nile, and the numerous sails of boats, which appeared 
in the far distance like birds on the wing, — these made 
up a picture which tempted us to linger and enjoy. 
Another visit to the bazaars, where we met the party 
of a steamer just arrived, and more purchases made, 
then we were off again. The evening was calm, with 
a bright moon, the men rowing and singing. So ended 
another day of our happy voyage, which we regretted 
was so fast drawing to a close. 

We passed Manfaloot before we had risen from our 
beds, but as the Reis stopped just below to give the crew 
their breakfast and make some purchases, I took a walk 
to explore the town. Finding it worth a visit, though 
barely mentioned in the guide-books, we detained the 
boat, and after breakfast all of us walked through the 
town, which we found comparatively clean and interest- 
ing. Much of it was washed away some years since, but 
it has since been rebuilt, has several mosques, five with 
minarets, and a Coptic church, which we visited, contain- 
ing some very old paintings. It has a large and well- 
supplied bazaar (in which we bought some tea), a steam 
flour-mill, and a large trade in wheat. There were about 
thirty boats lying at its bank. A governor resides here, 
and we saw a number of liquor-shops, cafes, Janissaries, 
Ghawazees (dancing-girls) in this town of ten thousand 
inhabitants, generally unvisited by Nile tourists ! We 
left at nearly noon, with a moderate breeze, which in- 
creased to a gale as we reached, at 5 p. m., the dreaded 
clifi's of Aboofayda, obliging us to " about ship " and run 
under them for shelter, as the wind made it too rough 



92 LETTER XII. 

for the low decks of a Dahabeeh. I ascended the cliff as 
far as I could in a lateral direction, about three hundred 
feet above the river, passing yawning caves and chasms. 
A portion of these extensive cliffs was hanging almost 
directly over our boat. During the night, the wind con- 
tinued to blow very hard. Our Dragoman advised us to 
look well to our arms, as this place was infested by Bed- 
ouins, and a robbery had taken place here only a short 
time before, of some native merchants in a boat, which 
was boarded by a party of this lawless tribe. Though 
distrusting any cause for fear, we were not unmindful of 
his advice, but were only disturbed by the cries of our 
watchful sentinels, who had been posted on the occasion. 

The gale having subsided early in the morning, we left our 
singular moorings, and the crew plied the oars. During 
the day, geese and ducks being very plentiful on the sand- 
bars, I made several excursions after them, accompanied by 
the Doctor, in our small boat ; but they proved a wild-goose 
chase, as our guns would not carry far enough, and we 
realized more fully than ever the want of a good modern 
rifle. We arrived in the evening at Khoda, and took a 
stroll around the palace and gardens of the Viceroy by 
moonlight. Afterwards we went into the great sugar- 
house, where a full complement of men were at work by 
gaslight at the grinding-mills, and tending the boiling 
and bleaching apparatus. The Arabs who were bringing 
in the cane from the great yard to the mill, were hurried 
up by three drivers, who made an indiscriminate use of a 
long Icoorhash continually over them. 

The next morning, I took a walk to the cane-field, to 
witness the manner of cutting. The noise of a thousand 



THE SUGAR-HOUSE AT RHODA. 93 

tongues filled the air before I emerged from the grove 
of trees which skirt the shore. I soon came to an im- 
mense field of sugar-cane, where a multitude of fellaheen 
were busily employed in cutting. Overseers mounted on 
swift horses were riding around, hurrj^ing them up. The 
cane is hacked up at the root with a short-handled hoe, 
and is then taken from the heaps and trimmed ready for 
the camels' backs, and the mill. Returning to the boat 
after breakfast, we all visited the sugar-works and palace 
of the Viceroy. The former cover a great space, and 
embrace a handsome brick edifice 320 feet long and 100 
broad, having at either end two wings 150 feet deep each, 
crossing and projecting front 50 feet, forming a large 
area, in which is a large reservoir enclosed by an iron 
fence, with handsome gates and gaslights in large glass 
globes. In the rear is another area, with a large elegant 
monumental gaslight stand in centre. Surrounding it 
are curing and refining houses, while contiguous are ex- 
tensive work and machine shops, steam water-elevators 
and storehouses, all of brick, built in European style. 
Facing the river near by, are brick cottages with window- 
glass and outside blinds, each with a garden, for the 
employes. These works have eight tall chimneys, and em- 
ploy eight steam-engines of 20 to 40 horse-power, 1,200 
men, and 2,500 to 3,000 camels. Mr. Mein, the engineer, 
from England, says he put up the engines six years ago, 
and that the amount of brown sugar made here in the 
season of two months is about 70,000 moulds of 85 lbs. 
each, or about six million pounds, besides a proportion 
of rum distilled, and molasses. 

We next took a walk to the Viceroy's new palace. 



94 LETTER XII. 

finished a year ago, but yet unfurnished. It is on a 
novel plan by a Greek architect, and combines Italian, 
Grecian, and Oriental styles. Already it has cost 400,000 
dollars, and is a monument of the folly and extravagance 
of the present despotic ruler of Egypt. He is a great 
mei'chant, and monopolizes the manufacture of sugar, the 
railroads, steam navigation of the Nile, and many other 
great enterprises, and his revenues and expenditures sur- 
pass belief. We were shown all over this one of his 
numerous palaces, and the fine garden contiguous, hand- 
somely laid out in European style. Returning to the 
"Gazelle," we left for the tombs of Beni-Hassan, a short dis- 
tance down the river, having reached the shore of which, 
we were all speedily mounted on donkeys for the Specs 
Antimados of Diana, a grotto two miles distant. While 
here, we encountered some American friends arrived in 
their Dahabeeh, and all rode to see the curious tombs to 
the north, about the same distance. We found them as 
represented, exceedingly interesting from the perfect fig- 
ures painted on the walls, illustrating in a remarkable 
manner the habits and customs of the ancient Egyptians 
under the Pharaohs. The style of the columns, from 
which the Doric are said to have originated, is polygonal, 
lightly moulded ; they are 16|^feet high, and 5 in diameter. 
The space between them is divided into a principal nave 
and two aisles, arched between, each architrave supported 
by pillars. 

We had a very pleasant ride to our boat, and left in 
company with our friends for Minieh (or Mineeyeh), where 
we arrived on a calm moonlight evening, just in time for 
a walk ashore and the sight of a bridal procession by 
torchlight. 



LETTER XIII. 

MINIEH. ITS SUGAR-WORKS. VICEROY'S PALACE. DE- 
LAYS AND EXCURSIONS ON THE RIVER. PYRAMIDS IN 

SIGHT. ARRIVAL AT GHIZEH. WASHINGTON'S BIRTH- 
DAY. ASCENT OP, OLD CHEOPS. ARRIVAL AT BOULAK, 

AND END OP VOY'AGE. ANOTHER DAY, AND THE LAST ON 

THE " GAZELLE." TEMPERATURE AND WEATHER DURING 

THE TRIP. THE NILE FLEET. 

It is with no small degree of satisfaction and relief that 
I commence this concluding letter of a series too long 
extended. When in the Crimea, at the close of the war, 
I sent a few unsolicited sketches to a journal for my 
friends to read, it was because the scenes and events 
were extraordinary, and letter-writers there were but few. 
So, on the Nile, I found such a novelty in scenes and 
life, though admirably portrayed by accomplished writers, 
that the subject, I thought, would be compai'atively new 
and interesting to many who have not had access to the 
volumes of Prime, Warburton, Wilkinson, Lane, and 
others. This is my apology for giving a journal of our 
voyage, in addition to what I at first intended to be 
merely some useful hints and directions to Nile tourists. 

My last letter left us arrived at the town of Minieh, 
where there are other very extensive steam sugar-works 



96 LETTER XIII. 

of the Viceroy, which cover a space of five acres. The 
buildings, of brick and granite, have five tall chimneys, 
one that I measured being 15 feet square at base; an- 
other, of an octagon shape, 13 feet in diameter, and I 
should judge of at least 220 feet in height. There are 
five engines and two cylinder mills for grinding, manu- 
factured in France, and put up under the direction of a 
French engineer. An immense quantity of brown and 
loaf sugar was on hand in the curing-houses. The mo- 
lasses is put up in the earthen jars from Kenneh, holding 
about 10 gallons, and is of superior quality. A large and 
handsome distilling apparatus, made by Pouderoix & 
Mangen, Paris, had just been put up by them, having 
copper stills 10 feet in diameter, and 36 large reservoirs. 

The Viceroy has built a new palace here, similar to that 
described at Rhoda. It has four projecting piazzas from 
its four recessed sides, instead of their being flush like 
the other. The garden around it was filled with Euro- 
pean and tropical trees, and plenty of nectarines, roses, 
oranges, &c., were in blossom. While here, a party of 
English and Americans in the Dahabeeh "Maria Louise," 
under their national colors, arrived, exchanged salutes, 
and visited us on board. They were from Cairo, bound 
up, and were glad to get a late New York paper, only five 
weeks old. After leaving Minieh, I had another fruitless 
chase after pelicans, but succeeded in shooting a duck. 

The following morning being very fine and calm, I was 
again tempted out in the small boat, at an early hour, by 
the sight of a huge solitary pelican, looking more like a 
boat than a bird in the water, with his great head and 
bill immersed in the stream, searching for his breakfast. 



ARRIVAL AT BENISOBF. 97 

Such a prize would, have been worth the price of a Bal- 
lard rifle, and I dare say friend Kimball, of the Boston 
Museum, would have presented me with one, had I 
brought the skin of the monster home for his collection. 
The want of such an arm probably saved the bird's trans- 
portation to Boston, as he would, have been an easy shot. 
Three Government steamers were passed this morning, 
and later, another passenger steamer. At a village called 
El Meragher, the Viceroy is building extensive sugar- 
works. Benisoef was reached in the evening, 77 miles 
miles from Cairo. The number of steamers and sailing- 
boats, the activity of laborers on the various public works 
on the shore, indicated our approach to a great metro- 
polis. The day was occupied in writing, packing up, &c., 
and in making another gunning excursion of half an 
hour, from which I brought home a duck. Just after, 
about sunset, our Dahabeeh got fast on a sand-bar. It 
was nearly midnight before the crew, with hard work, 
could get her off. This was annoying to our Dragoman, 
especially as we were to have terminated our voyage next 
day, by an ascent to the Pyramids from Ghizeh. 

Going on deck the next morning, I found it calm, every- 
thing indicating a hot day. The Pyramids of Dashoor 
and Sakkara were in sight, and soon after, those of 
Ghizeh, and the citadel of Cairo. The crew were singing 
their Arab Wile songs, accompanied by the drums and 
tambourines, while one of them gave a specimen of 
dancing. The ducks and geese tempted me, with the 
Doctor, to make another excursion in the small boat. The 
" Gazelle " drifted two miles ahead, and a breeze springing 
up, we found ourselves and our two oarsmen no match 

7 



98 LETTER XIII. 

for her ; so we got a native wheat-boat, that sailed fast, to 
take us in tow, and soon overhauled her, as she carried 
but the small sail. The wind veered ahead by noon, and 
blew so strong, that it obliged us to lie at Tonra, only 
four miles from Ghizeh. Two Dahab^ehs were passed to- 
day, one with a French party bound up, another with a 
party of ten Americans and Scotch on a three days' ex- 
cursion to visit the Pyramids and Memphis. The wind 
abating, gave us the desired opportunity to reach Ghizeh 
in the evening, where we made fast to the shore that we 
had left just eight weeks before. 

February 22d. — The delay of a day by sand-bar and 
wind was fortunate, as it enabled us to celebrate this 
anniversary in a becoming manner, gave us propitious 
weather for ascending the Pyramids, and ended our Nile 
voyage. Our deck was trimmed with all the bunting 
we could muster, and the Stars and Stripes hoisted to a 
salute of 13 guns. The wind from the northwest was 
just enough for comfort. Our donkeys were sent over in 
the ferry from Old Cairo, and we were all mounted by 
nine o'clock for the Pyramids, 6 miles distant. When we 
arrived at the base of " Old Cheops," tents wex'e being put 
up for a party from the Viceroy's Hai-em, that were to 
visit it next day. The guides beset us as usual, but our 
Dragoman saved us all trouble, by bargaining with their 
Sheikh at the tariff price of one dollar for each person, 
with three guides, for ascending or entering the Pyramid. 
It being somewhat windy, none of the party but the 
Doctor accompanied me in the ascent. Having put my- 
self in good climbing trim, and provided with a small 
American flag, and an extra " pocket pistol " as a sanitary 



ASCENT OP "old CHEOPS." 99 

precaution, I dismissed one of the guides, and would have 
done so with the second, but that was not allowable. 

Without hurrying myself, I made the ascent to the sum- 
mit easily in fifteen minutes, assisted at times by only one 
of the attendants, and displayed the flag to those looking 
on from below, saluting it with discharges from one of my 
pistols. The portly form of the Doctor soon made its 
appearance, and a party of Frenchmen followed. With 
fourteen guides, we all made a party of twenty-one per- 
sons on the broken apex of Cheops, a space of about twenty 
square feet, though looking from below very diminutive. 
We remained three quarters of an hour here, during which 
our guides were employed in cutting our names in the 
stones after our own drawings. On descending, we met 
at the entrance of the Pyramid the rest of our party. 
The passage looked so small, gloomy, and on so inclined 
a plane, that only Mr. L. and Miss R. ventured with me 
to visit the King and Queen's chamber. To penetrate by 
the descending and ascending tortuous and narrow pas- 
sage, with the uncertain light of candles, to the King's 
chamber, in the heart of this mass of mammoth masonry, 
requires more exertion than to ascend its summit. It 
was satisfactorily accomplished by those who undertook 
it, for when once in, it is hard backing out. But if one 
has courage, the guides will "put you through." Noth- 
ing but a large empty room was found there, but the 
passage to it, so artfully and ingeniously concealed for so 
many thousand years, must be seen to be realized. These 
enduring monuments of the folly and power of one man, 
of skill of design, and of patient labor in their erection, 
are too well known to require any description from me. 



100 LETTER XIII. 

I may, however, remind my readers that this largest 
of the three gi'eat Pyramids (there are six smaller ones) 
covers eleven acres of ground, has a base of 764 feet each 
way, and is 480 feet high, or 40 feet higher than twice the 
height of Bunker Hill Monument. 100,000 men, it is 
estimated, were employed 10 years in making the cause- 
way on which to convey the stone, and 360,000 men for 
20 years in building it. The next in size, built 2083 b. c, 
is but little inferior in dimensions. The Sphinx somewhat 
disappointed me, though it is seen at great disadvantage, 
being so much buried in ruins. The tomb discovered by 
Colonel Howard Vyse, and the great one of red granite 
recently found by a Frenchman, were surpi-isingly large 
and interesting. In the excavated one of the latter we 
took our lunch, and then returned to our boat. Here we 
dined, while floating down to Boulak, where we dropped 
anchor, and at sunset fired a national salute as we struck 
our flag. Our voyage on the Nile was now ended ; but at 
the invitation of our generous El Adli, we decided to 
spend the following day and night on the " Gazelle." 

The last day on the Nile was a lovely one. Our Drago- 
man engaged donkeys for the gentlemen, and attended us 
to the hotel to engage rooms, and to the bankers, where 
a large lot of letters and papers awaited us. To the credit 
of our Reis, crew, and servants, they all remained on board 
to await our departure. At noon, we tripped anchor for 
the berth of the " Gazelle," a mile farther down the river, 
passing the Viceroy's palace and his six splendid steam 
yachts (thi'ee belonging to his harem), and two immense 
Dahab^ehs. We found at the moorings on the shore of 
Boulak, 17 Dahabeehs, among them our old companion, 



END OF THE VOYAGE. 101 

the " Zarifa," laid up. Mahomed El Adli gave us a sump- 
tuous dinner, and the flags were hauled down for the last 
time. The evening was employed in settling up, making 
presents to captain, crew, cooks, and servants, and last, 
though not least, giving £30, or $150 to oiir Dragoman, 
his boat and other expenses having cost him about that 
sum more than what he estimated when we acepted his 
ofier for the ISTile voyage, and in considei'ation of his lib- 
erality and uniform kindness. The old songs were sung 
over by our faithful, ever-kind, obedient, and respectful 
Arab crew, and we retired from our cosey parlor at a late 
hour. After breakfast, we took leave of all that had 
contributed so much to the happiness of sixty-five days, 
every one of us regretting that the time had not been 
extended. 

In closing the narrative of the voyage, I fulfil a prom- 
ise to give the result of my daily record of the thermome- 
ter and state of wind and weather, which will be found in 
the Appendix. The temperature of the interior of our 
Dahabeeh, which' at no time had any artificial heat save 
that from our French carcel lamp, was within from 3 to 
5 degrees of the temperature of the outside, except in 
the evening. The lowest ranges of the thermometer 
during the 65 days on the river were at sunrise in the 
saloon, Jan. 3d, 45°; Feb. 15th, 45°; and Feb. 16th, 46° ; 
and the highest at same hour and place were Dec. 21st, 
65° ; Jan. 1st, 62° ; Jan. 7th, 64° ; Jan. 20th, 62°. The 
average of the 11 days in December at that time of 
day was a fraction over 57° ; that of 31 days in January, 
about the same, and 23 days of February, 51^°. The 
lowest range at 2 p. m. was 65° on four several days in 



102 LETTER XIII. 

December, and one in February. The highest was Jan. 
15th, 19th, 21st, 22d, and 23d, when it stood at 80°. The 
average of the 1 1 days in December at that hour was 
68|°, that of the 31 days in January, 75^°, and 23 
days in February, 70°, During the whole period, there 
was a remarkable uniformity in the temperature of the 
cabin in the evening until 10 p. m., when it varied fi'om 
65° to 70°, and averaged 68°. Of the 65 days, 17 were 
calm and clear; 22 clear, with moderate breezes; 17 
clear, with fresh breezes, and 7 partly or wholly cloudy, 
rarely the latter. The prevailing winds were 12 days 
southerly, 29 northerly, varying mostly to the west, and 
one day west wind. There were only two foggy morn- 
ings, and not a shower of rain the whole period, save a 
slight sprinkle at Thebes. 

The Nile fleet that we saw or heard from while on the 
river numbered 30 Dahabeehs, 17 of which were under 
American, 10 under English, and three under French 
flags. As there were this season a larger number of 
Americans than usual who wished to make the voyage in 
steamers, the Egyptian line was well patronized, for the 
reason of there being no other. Besides sending one 
Dahabeeh every twenty days, several extra ones were ob- 
tained by parties when a sufficient number warranted. 
The greater number of these passengers, amounting per- 
haps to about 150, were Americans. Much complaint 
was made that the food on some of the boats was insuf- 
ficient, and unfit to eat, and with good reason, as I know 
of some passengers that were made seriously ill by un- 
wholesome food. I have not the particulars to give, but 
the matter was brought to the notice of our Consul at 



COMPLAINTS AGAINST THE RIVER COMPANY, 103 

Cairo, and damages sought to be recovered from the pro- 
prietors, — with what success I know not ; but I think 
the Company will, for their own interests, correct the 
errors of the past season, or else had better give up- 
running their boats for passengers. 



END OF THE VOYAGE. 



TOUR IN SYRIA AND PALESTINE. 



LETTER I. 

PREPARATIONS IN CAIRO. CONTRACT WITH DRAGOMAN. 

CARAVAN AND MILITARY SPECTACLE. VISIT TO SUEZ 

AND THE RED SEA, THE CANAL. THE NEW PORT 

AND DRY-DOCK. LEAVE CAIRO FOR ALEXANDRIA. 

CARNIVAL. DEPARTURE FROM EGYPT. DIFFICULT 

LANDING AT JAFFA. 

This journey had been determined upon by the "R. 
W. L." party of the Nile before the voyage was ended, 
and all were desirous to engage our Dragoman with his 
cook and servants, that had attended us so satisfactorily 
on the river, for our tent life in the Holy Land. They 
had all been there before, and were acquainted with 
the mode of travelling, management of tents, baggage, 
horses, &c. 

Our first object, after arriving at the hotel in Cairo on 
the 25 th of February, was to consult Mohamed El Adli 
on the subject, determine our route, the length of the 
journey, and get from him his lowest price for a given 



106 LETTER I. 

number of days, to include everything needed that is 
customary for the entire trip. We decided to have new 
tents and equipage, canteen, English side-saddles, and a 
palanquin, to be purchased in Cairo, and to start from 
Alexandria for Jaffa by the French steamer of the 7th of 
March. Our Dragoman's terms were accepted, and the 
contract drawn up and signed as usual. The following 
is an exact copy : — 

"Agreement made between H. R, "W. W. W., and C. 
H. L., of the first part, and Mohamed El Adli, of Alexan- 
dria, Dragoman, of the second part, witnesseth : 

"1st. That the said Mohamed El Adli agrees to act 
as Dragoman and servant to the above parties, including 
Miss R., Mrs. W., and Mrs. L. (six in number), during a 
tour in Syria and Palestine, commencing at Jaffa or 
Beyrout, and to include Jerusalem, Hebron, Bethlehem, 
Rachel's Tomb, Pools of Solomon, Dead Sea, the Jordan, 
and Jericho, Damascus, Baalbec, Lebanon, and the Cedars, 
by whatever route said parties of the first part may 
choose, through Palestine and the Holy Land, or partly 
by the Mediterranean. 

" The fares on steamers from Alexandria to Jaffa and 
Beyrout and back to Alexandria for the Dragoman, ser- 
vants, cook, expenses of freight on tents, provisions, and 
everything except the wines and personal baggage of the 
six persons above named, to be paid by Mohamed El 
Adli, who is also to furnish five good horses,^ with suit- 
able bridles, three new English side-saddles, three good 
saddles for the gentlemen, a 'caravan' or palanquin, of 

1 The palanquiu having been abandoned, another horse, making 
six in all, was provided. 



CONTRACT WITH DRAGOMAN. 107 

suitable size, for two ladies, with four mules, and when 
required in cities for the daily use of the party not wish- 
ing to use the palanquin, another horse is to be provided ; 
also a sufficient number of mules for carrying the personal 
baggage, wines, &c., of the party of sis, whenever and 
wherever required, during the entire tour. Also two 
tents, of 1 2 ropes each, for the ladies and gentlemen, with 
a separate cabinet to each complete, a dining tent of 14 
ropes, and a kitchen tent, with flags, &c., to be properly 
furnished with new bedsteads, beds, and sufficient bed- 
ding for each person, including tent furniture and equip- 
ments as is customary, and all to be of best quality. 
Also to furnish provisions of all kinds, except wines, 
necessary for the journey that are usually provided, two 
good servants, a first-class cook, three attendants for the 
ladies' horses or palanquin, with guards, guides, &c., 
whenever required. 

" 2d. The pace of the horses, the length of each day's 
journey, and the time of starting, as well as the route, to 
be decided by the party of the first part, who are to have 
perfect command and control over the movements of 
all persons with them connected in this tour. All the 
horses, mules, and palanquin to be at the disposition at 
all times of said party. 

" 3d. Mohamed El Adli is to furnish said party of 
six with three meals a day, at such hours as they may 
choose ; but it is expressly agreed that if any one or all 
of the party should, from cold or unpleasant weather, or 
any other discomfort of tent life, deem it more prudent 
or agreeable, they are at liberty to stop at any hotel 
or convent they may elect, instead of in camp, when 



108 LETTER I. 

and where they choose, and that such expense at hotels 
or convents during the journey, except wines, is to be 
paid by the said Dragoman, who is also to pay all back- 
sheesh, fees, or presents, necessary or customary, to all 
persons in any way connected with the journey, excur- 
sions, or sight-seeing, excepting only the two waiters and 
cook, so that the said party of six shall not be under 
obligation to pay anything except what is set forth spe- 
cially in this contract. Neither are they to be held 
responsible for any damage to horses, mules, tents, or 
other articles used on the journey. Everything con- 
nected with the furnishing by said Dragoman to be in 
readiness at Alexandria by the seventh day of March 
next, to embark on board the steamer of the Messageries 
Impdriales, or any other leaving after that date. 

" 4th. In consideration of the performance of the fore- 
going agi'eement on the part of the said Dragoman, the 
party of the first part engage that the tour shall extend 
at least to the term of 30 days from its commencement, 
and to pay him eleven pounds sterling each day of said 
term, which is to be in full payment of all expenses 
named in the agreement aforesaid ; and should the term 
exceed 30 days, to pay at the same rate. Should any 
one or more of the party of six persons wish to leave at 
Jerusalem, Jaffa, or Beyrout before the expiration of the 
30 days, they may do so by paying for the remainder of 
the number of days of the term half price, or eighteen 
shillings fourpence each person per diem. The time of 
the voyage between Jaffa and Beyrout, if made by 
steamer, to be deducted from the 30 days' pay to the 
Dragoman at the rate of £11 per diem, and the six fares 
on board to be paid by the said party of six. 



CONTRACT WITH DRAGOMAN. 109 

" 5th. The money to be paid to the Dragoman, and 
advances made, as follows : One hundred and fifteen 
pounds to be paid at Cairo, the receipt of which he 
hereby acknowledges ; eighty-five pounds at Alexandria ; 
ten pounds at Jerusalem ; and thirty pounds at Beyrout. 
The balance to be paid on final retiirn to Beyrout and 
conclusion of the above contract. 

" In case of any disagreement between the parties, the 
whole matter is to be referred for final decision to the 
United States Consul-General at Alexandria. 

"Witness our hands this 27th day of Feb. 1867, at 
Cairo. 

" (Signed) C. H. L. for self and party, 

" and seal of Mohambd El Adli." 

The time for preparation by El Adli being quite short 
(only eight days), the tents and palanquin were ordered 
by him at once ; saddles, beds, bedding, tent furniture, 
table and kitchen ware were purchased, and then he left 
for Alexandria to get his supply of provisions ready, to 
return for us by the 5th, leaving his elder brother Mus- 
tapha (a Dragoman just returned from a Nile voyage) in 
charge, whom he had engaged to take with him as an 
assistant on our journey. Our cook and servants were 
re-engaged, and the preparations progressed rapidly. 

During the eight days that we remained in Cairo, we 
witnessed a novel spectacle, or ceremony, which, also 
with our visit to Suez and the Red Sea, I will describe. 
The ceremony is an annual one, performed in Cairo pre- 
paratory to the starting of the caravan with the pilgrims 
for Mecca. We took carriages for the citadel, in front of 



110 LETTER I. 

which the procession was to pass, and obtained an excel- 
lent position directly on the line kept by the guards and 
police. The gi-eat area behind us was completely filled 
with the multitude of varied Oriental costumes and com-' 
plexions of the native population, interspersed with a few 
foreigners. The procession occujjied an hour and a half 
in passing our carriages, and consisted of about 5,000 
regular troops, numerous camels richly covered, bearing 
pilgrims, and accompanied with fantastically dressed der- 
vishes. The following was the order of marching : — 

Twenty camels, gaily decorated and furnished for the 
pilgTimage complete. Mounted military police. Chief 
magistrate of Cairo splendidly dressed and mounted. 
Military escort, consisting of pioneers, two bands of 
music, one regiment of foot chasseurs, with rifles and 
swoi'd-bayonets, two regiments of infantry, and bands 
with white and yellow uniforms, a regiment of 600 lan- 
cers dressed in blue jackets, with yellow trimmings and 
red trousers, their lances with green and crimson pen- 
nons, a mounted band of music preceding them, generals 
and staff, four squadrons of cavalry, two with red and 
two with white horses, a mounted band, four batteries of 
artillery, men mounted and dressed in red and blue uni- 
forms armed with short rifles and sword-bayonets, mount- 
ed police, a brilliant staff of officers and guards. The 
Cover of the Tombs of the Proj)hets, borne on camels, 
appearing like a lai'ge and highly decorated catafalque, 
the camels richly caparisoned, guards, a squadron of 
cavalry, fifteen camels completely covered with rich and 
gay housings of cloth wrought with various colored beads 
and feathers, and a mounted guard with band of music. 



SUEZ. Ill 

I omit any further description, as I found it impossible 
to obtain any reliable information in explanation of this 
ceremony, and left the whole subject, to occupy myself 
with pi'eparations for our own pilgrimage to Jerusalem. 

Three days were spent in writing letters home, visiting 
the bazaars, and then on the first day of March we were 
all behind the " iron horse," spanning the desert which 
intervenes between Cairo and Suez. The scenery after 
leaving Heliopolis behind us (already described in Nile 
Letter No. 5) was a continued desert, with gently undu- 
lating sand-hills, or a rolling prairie of sand. At the 
half-way station is an oasis, or pretty cottage restaurant 
with flowers around it, its interior filled up as a museum 
of natural history, with implements of hunting and war- 
fare tastefully arranged. We arrived at half-past three, 
p. M., in five hours and a half from Cairo. The second- 
class carriages are very comfortable, and will save a need- 
less expense. We found the hotel at Suez the best in the 
East, without exception ; it is kept by an employ^ of the 
Peninsular and Oriental Steamship Company on a liberal 
scale, under the Company's control. The same evening 
we all took a walk to the other side of the bay, and saw 
a party start off on camels for Jerusalem, by way of 
Mount Sinai. Here we also visited the great Canal exca- 
vation made within two years, in the bed of which was a 
thick incrustation of salt on the water deposit. Our 
walk was extended on our return through the little but 
thriving town grown up of late years by the business 
created by the large number of workmen on the Canal 
and pprt, and on the public works of the Viceroy. 

Having engaged the excellent guide, Joseph, we em- 



112 LETTER I. 

barked in a sailing-boat for a visit down the bay to the 
dry-dock and other objects of interest. This fine speci- 
men of masonry, constructed by the pi'esent Viceroy, was 
commenced in 1863, and finished in 1866. It is 450 feet 
long by 100 broad. The new port now building for ves- 
sels by the Canal Company will require 3 to 4,000 blocks 
of concrete, each twelve feet by six, and five feet high, to 
construct the breakwater. They are made on the spot, 
and require three months' time to dry them. French, 
laborers, engineers, and superintendents were very ac- 
tively engaged on these extensive works. We sailed far- 
ther down the bay, where was anchored the fleet of the 
Viceroy, consisting of a steam frigate and five smaller 
steamers, besides several European vessels, among them 
the fine P. & 0. Co.'s steamer, the " Suratt," of the Cal- 
cutta line. She is 3,000 tons, 700 horse-power, and 350 
feet in length, making the voyage (touching at Aden and 
Point de Galle) in 28 days. The fare first-class is £75. 
We were politely received by the officers on going aboard, 
and were shown her spacious and sumptuous accommo- 
dations. On returning to the inner but shallow har- 
bor, where it is said Moses crossed, we landed to look 
at the new fi-eshwater canal, finished about two years 
since. Its locks and boats indicate considerable business 
between the valley of the Nile and Suez. 

On our return to our hotel, a fine view of the sur- 
rounding scenery was had from its roof, and a spare hour 
was devoted by our Doctor R. in enjoying a bath from 
a small boat in the waters of the Red Sea, while he 
whistled, as he told us, the march of "Moses in Egypt." 
I visited with him and Mr. L. in the evening a cafe 



ALBXANDBIA. 113 

chantant, where we heard some excellent singing of oper- 
atic music. 

The nest morning we reluctantly left this comfortable 
town, where a few days can be pleasantly spent by trav- 
ellers in Egypt, if time will allow. On our return to 
Cairo, arriving at our hotel, we found our tents pitched 
in front on the great Square for our examination, and we 
were pleased with the roomy accommodation. The fol- 
lowing day was devoted to packing up, and El Adli, who 
had returned from Alexandria, took charge of our effects, 
to send them with his by rail. 

The 5th of the month at 8 o'clock we were off from 
the station, and soon took our last look of the city and of 
its prominent citadel. Arriving at Alexandria at 2 p. M., 
we found it in a state of high carnival. The streets were 
full of grotesque and other kinds of costumes, with and 
without masks, while the population of the European 
part of the city were to be seen in holiday array, either 
in carriages, at the windows, or on the promenades. A 
masked ball, which I did not attend, ended the carnival 
about daylight the following morning. 

The next day was occupied in shopping and entertain- 
ing some old friends from Smyrna established here. Our 
appointed sailing day was postponed to the 9th, as the 
" Tibre " had been detained at Marseilles two days, and 
had not arrived. Our time, however, was pleasantly 
spent, and an excellent opera enjoyed at the new opera- 
house. Our Consul-General, Mr. Hale, being absent on 
business, we left his books, kindly lent us, without having 
the opportunity of personally thanking him. About the 
last moment we received photographs of our Dragoman 



114 LETTER I. 

and servants from Cairo, where they had been taken for 
us. 

Early in the morning, El Adli was promptly on hand 
to take charge of our luggage at the Hotel Abbatt, and 
conduct us on board the steamer, A strong wind from 
the W. N. W. was blowing, which had prevailed for the 
three preceding days, and we reasonably expected a rough 
sea as soon as we cleared the port. The skies, however, 
were bright, and the panorama a pleasing one, as we 
steamed from this large mart of commerce, its port filled 
with shipping, while the city, with its half-Oriental look, 
the windmills on the point, and Pompey's Pillar, gradu- 
ally receded from sight. It was curious to see the bright 
blue Mediterranean change its hue by a distinct line of 
demarcation to a dull gray. This is caused by the Ro- 
setta branch of the Nile, whose waters extend into the 
sea a distance of ten miles. 

Among the passengers were Colonel J. P. Sauford, of 
Chicago, whose conversation was highly entertaining, and 
W. H. Bidwell, of the Eclectic Magazine, New York, 
who by the request of Secretaiy Seward was about to 
make some inquiries into the state of the Jaffa colonists, 
and report the same to him. 

A southwest wind prevailed the next day, and blew 
fresh, with heavy sea, as we approached, about noon, the 
shores of Jaffa, or Joppa. This town has no harbor, be- 
ing only an open roadstead, with the protection of a reef 
of rocks for small vessels to lie inside of this natural 
breakwater. We came to anchor a mile outside, and the 
possibility of landing was for a long time doubtful. A 
heavy swell prevailed, and the breakers near the town 



ARRIVAL AT JOPPA. 115 

looked anything but inviting. The large boats, so ad- 
mirably managed by skilful Arabs, came off, and were 
with difficulty kept from being stove alongside. It was 
said there was no danger, and the disembarking com- 
menced. There were many others besides ourselves to 
land, with quantities of baggage, tents, &c. A perfect Ba- 
bel of voices prevailed, enormous prices were demanded, 
and much time was lost in making preparations. We 
finally succeeded in securing two large boats, embarked 
with some difficulty, and reached the shore at four o'clock 
without "shipping a sea," though tossed on waves so 
large that when we descended between them, the masts 
of our steamer were not visible. 

On landing, we got quarters for the night at the Latin 
Convent of the Franciscan brotherhood. 



LETTER II. 

AT THE CONVENT AT JAFFA. THE AMERICAN COLONY. 

OUR CARAVAN, AND START FOR JERUSALEM. ENCAMP- 
MENT AT RAMLEH. ARRIVAL AT THE HOLY CITY. 

TENTS PITCHED OUTSIDE ITS WALLS. A GALE AT NIGHT. 

VISIT TO JERUSALEM. WEATHER BAD. - — LEAVE THE 

TENTS FOR APARTMENTS IN THE CITY. VISIT TO THE 

HOLY PLACES. THE MOUNT OP OLIVES. BETHANY. 

GARDEN OF GETHSBMANB. LEAVE FOR HEBRON, AND A 

FIVE days' journey. 

The Latin Convent, situated close to the landing, com- 
mands a fine view of the Mediterranean, and the hospi- 
tality afforded to those who cannot obtain lodgings or 
meals at the small hotel is said to be the best in the 
town, but poor enough. Though nothing is charged, yet 
about 10 francs per diem for each person is expected. 
There is also a Russian Convent, which gladly offers its 
accommodations on the same terms. The monks serve 
you with zeal, and the one who oflficiated at our quarters 
was very loquacious ; he had travelled in both North and 
South America. We visited "the house of one Simon a 
tanner," which is very near the Convent, and began to 
realize that we were on sacred ground, though outward 
appearances did not indicate it. After a poor dinner, 



START FOR JERUSALEM. 117 

with execrable wine, and a tolerable night's lodging, we 
made ready the next morning for camp. The weather 
was fine, El Adli and our servants took our personal bag- 
gage, reduced to a small portmanteau each, and sundry 
packages for the pack-mules, and we left for our horses, 
which, together with our tents, baggage-mules, and pa- 
lanquin, were outside the walls. 

On our way, we met and had conversation with some 
of the American colonists, and promised to visit them on 
our return. At the rendezvous for starting, we spent 
some time in selecting horses and getting all the mules 
packed. The palanquin proved to be so cumbersome, and 
was considered so unnecessary, unless some of us should 
be unable to ride, that we concluded to leave it behind, 
and run the risk of getting a lighter one at Jerasalem. 
Palanquins are very rarely used, and during our whole 
journey we had no occasion for one. 

At noon, our party were all mounted, and the mules, 
with tents and baggage, sent ahead, to encamp for the 
night at Eamleh. Our caravan consisted of, including 
ourselves, twenty persons, ten mules, and nine horses. 
Our attendants were two Dragomans, two servants, and 
cook, the owner of the horses and mules, three atten- 
dants for the ladies, and five muleteers. The road we 
took from Jaffa was lined with extensive gardens and 
orange and lemon orchards, loaded with the large and 
luscious fruit peculiar to this place. As we emerged 
from these into the open country, the view was very 
fine. The Plains of Sharon, beautifully green with the 
young crops, were brilliant with wild-flowers in great va- 
riety, while the distant rocky and rugged mountains we 



118 LETTER II. 

were to pa^s had a soft gray hue. Our path (for roads 
there ai'e none) was an easy one, allowing us — a rarity in 
Syria — to trot our horses part of the way ; and by three 
o'clock we reached the town of Ramleh, which has a 
Latin convent in addition to a Greek and an Armenian 
one, besides two Turkish mosques and a population of 
2,000. 

Passing through the town, we soon came in sight of 
our tents, all pitched and ready for us, on a grassy sward 
sprinkled with wild-flowers, near a pool of water. We 
took possession of our novel and comfortable quarters, 
and after a ramble over the fields, enjoyed one of those 
good dinners prepared by our cook and servants of the 
"Gazelle." Our first night's sleep in camp was sound, 
and undisturbed save by the tinkling bells of our mules. 
At half-past five o'clock in the morning we rose, break- 
fasted an hour later, and in another hour were all 
mounted for the Holy City, a long ride of nine hours. 
We were accompanied by a party of Americans, at the 
head of whom was our Nile acquaintance, the genial 
and generous well-known J. L. C. of Philadelphia. After 
having crossed the Plains of Sharon, from thence through 
the pass of the mountains of Ephraim Latrone, and the 
Valley of Elah, where David killed Goliath, noon brought 
us to an old ruined mosque, and under the shelter of its 
olive-ti'ees we spread our lunch, and rested our wearied 
limbs on the grass within its walls. While here, we met 
a party of Nile acquaintances from Jerusalem on their 
way to Jaffa. After resting an hour and a half, we 
mounted oiir horses and slowly wended our way along 
the stony and mountainous path. Still continuing to 



JERUSALEM. 119 

ascend one summit after another, at six o'clock our glad 
eyes first beheld the towers of the Russian Convent, and 
soon after that of the city itself. In half an hour more 
we arrived at the convent, near which and the walls of 
the city we found our tents pitched, and gladly ex- 
changed our saddles for tent-chairs. After a late dinner, 
we sought a night's repose. The very hot weather, to- 
gether with such a long ride for the first time, caused 
much fatigue, which was borne quite as well, however, by 
the ladies as by the gentlemen. 

Towards moi'ning, our rest was broken by a sudden 
tempest, and all hands were roused to keep the tents 
secure by additional braces. They remained firm ; but 
the wind continuing to blow all night and morning from 
seaward, and our situation being too exposed, the tents 
were shifted nearer the walls on the side of the hill, while 
we paid a visit to the city. During the day the wind 
changed to N. W., and blew hard and cold until even- 
ing, when it moderated ; but during the night increased 
again, with some rain. 

The day following was a boisterous one, with driving 
clouds. We, however, joined some friends to make up a 
party for visiting the Mosque of Omar, which until re- 
cently had been forbidden ground to Christians. With 
the cavasse sent by the American Consul, and a special 
permission, for which about two dollars each person 
was paid in advance, we were conducted by an ofiicial 
through the Holy of Holies, for a description of which I 
refer to other writers. After being hvtrried through this 
sacred and beautiful temple of Mohammed, we next went 
to the Mosque of El-Aksa, on Mount Moriah, once the 



120 LETTER II. 

Christian Church of the Virgin Mary. Having visited all 
the sacred places of the Mohammedans in the Harara 
Ech-Cherif, we returned to our tents, as the weather 
looked bad, and threatened rain. A consultation was had 
about taking quarters in one of the hotels in the city, a 
change provided for in our contract. El Adli proposed 
engaging for us furnished apartments in a good house 
well situated, to take his stores, cook, and servants, and 
furnish us our meals there. We returned to the city 
through the Damascus Gate, and on arriving at the house 
of Max Unger, were shown by his wife, a pleasant and oblig- 
ing woman, the apartments, very comfortably and neatly 
furnished, and overlooking the whole city, with the Mount 
of Olives and country around to the east. Our Drago- 
man's proposition was gladl}'' accepted, as it gave us 
superior accommodations and a better-served table than 
a hotel, though there were two first-class ones here, filled 
mostly with Americans, mauj from their tents. The 
necessary transfer was made before sunset, and we dined 
in our new quarters, with which the ladies were highly 
pleased. 

The next day was clear, though a cold wind prevailed, 
and our flags were displayed fi-om the walls in front, which 
rose sixty feet above the next house, directly below us. 
AVith our guide, we visited the Church of the Holy Sep- 
ulchre, the Via Dolorosa, St. Stephen's Gate, the Ai-menian 
Convent, Pilate's House, the Arch of the Ecce Homo, the 
House of Veronica, the Church of the Flagellation, the 
Jews' Wailing-Place, and the large stones supposed to 
have been part of an arched causeway connecting Mount 
Zion with Mount Moriah. The fine weather of the fol- 



BETHANY. 121 

lowing morning induced us to visit the Mount of Olives. 
After breakfast, our horses were called in requisition, 
and issuing forth by the Damascus Gate, we passed 
around the N. E. angle of the walls, and riding directly 
across the Valley of Jehoshaphat, ascended the sacred 
mount. On its summit, we alighted to ascend the tower 
and enjoy the fine view from its top, extending as far as 
the Dead Sea. A chapel erected by Habena, mother of 
Constantine, stands here. There are many olive-trees, 
some of great age, yet remaining, but relic-seekers are 
fast demolishing them. 

From here we walked to Bethany, on the eastern slope 
of a lesser mount, one and a half miles distant, gather- 
ing wild-flowers of the most delicate kinds and hues, that 
grow in such profusion and variety in Palestine. This 
place, which has such sacred associations, is a small un- 
inviting looking village, but its neighborhood is very 
pretty, abounding in olive, fig, almond, and pomegranate 
trees. Here we were shown the Tomb of Lazarus and 
the Houses of Mary Magdalene and of Martha. Remount- 
ing our horses, we left this hallowed spot for another 
at some distance, at the foot of the Mount of Olives. The 
Garden of Gethsemane is surrounded by a high wall, en- 
closing eight very old olive-trees. The space is almost 
entirely laid out in flower-beds and borders, with very 
little taste, and the Latin monks in possession dispense 
showy bouquets, for which they expect a fee. On the 
opposite side of the road we were shown the Grotto 
of Agony and the Virgin's Tomb and Chapel, where it is 
said the Virgin lay after death, and the Assumption 
took place. At all such places a liberal fee is expected, 



122 LETTER II. 

from one to two francs, according to the size of the 
party. 

Eeturning towards the city, we rode around the south- 
eastern walls, passing on the way the Tomb of Absalom, 
and those, hewn in the rock, of Zacharias, Jehoshaphat, 
and St. James. Ascending the hill to the southwest, we 
reached the interesting Tomb of David, surrounded with 
buildings which detract much from the sacredness of the 
spot, especially as it is in the hands of the Turks, who 
keep the place in a dirty condition. We were shown by 
our guide a room in one of the buildings, in which he 
assured us Christ dispensed the Last Sapper. Entering 
the city by the Jaffa Gate, beside the venerable Tower of 
David, and escorting the ladies to our house, I then 
made some calls at the Mediterranean Hotel, to see friends ; 
after which rode out of the city again to the tents of Mr. 
H. A. R., who had proposed joining his party to ours in 
a five days' excursion around Jerusalem, embracing the 
Pools of Solomon, Hebron, Bethlehem, Mar-Saba, the 
Dead Sea, the Jordan, and Jericho. It was decided to 
start on the following Monday, should the weather prove 
favorable, and the necessary permits to visit the Russian 
Convent, and a guard to meet us at Mar-Saba for the 
Dead Sea and Jordan, were applied for at the Consulate, 

Sunday, the 17th of March, was a very fine morning. 
From our house we could see the flags displayed on all the 
Consulates. "We all attended the English Church service 
in the morning, and in the afternoon visited the Church 
of the Holy Sepulchre during the service of the Greek 
Catholics, presided over by the venerable-looking patri- 
arch. A description of this extensive and sacred edifi.ce 



THE HOLT SEPULCHRE. 123 

would be out of place in this merely brief record of a 
tour. Suffice it to say that it stands on what is sup- 
posed to be the site of Calvary, and of the tombs of 
Joseph and Nicodemns,. as also of the place where Jesus 
appeared to his mother after his resurrection. Differ- 
ent sects of Christians have their respective chapels 
within its walls, that of the Greeks being very richly 
embellished. The most sacred spot among the many 
within the church is the Holy Sepulchre. The tomb 
itself, which is of white marble, about six feet square, 
is in a small room, allowing but four persons standing 
at a time, and difficult to approach, as there are some 
devout pilgrims who enter and depart on their knees, 
their eyes bathed in tears. On this spot for nearly six- 
teen centuries, kings, queens, princes, the greatest po- 
tentates upon earth, crusaders, and pilgrims have knelt 
and prayed. No Christian, be his creed what it may, can 
approach it without being inspired with awe and venera- 
tion. 

Our guide, a converted Jew by the name of Wein- 
thrope, who has an interesting family near Max Unger's, 
was desirous to show us what few travellers see. This 
was the extensive quarries under the city, discovered 
accidentally by Di\ Barclay, an American, about twelve 
years ago. These subterranean galleries, huge in *their 
proportions, were made, so it is said, by the Jews in 
building the city and walls when encompassed about by 
enemies. They extend from near the Damascus Gate to 
the Mosque of Omar and Gate of St. Stephen, and disclose 
the marks of the workmen's wedges, some of which re- 
main yet in their places. We found the excursion a very 



124 LETTER II. 

interesting one, attended with no inconvenience, only re- 
quiring a guide with candles. The Tombs of the Proph- 
ets Avere next visited, not far distant from the Damascus 
Gate, in a northerly direction. 

On the day appointed for our five days' excursion, the 
weather was cloudy, with a fresh wind. We were up 
early, and prepared to start by eight in the morning ; our 
mules, loaded with the baggage, and saddle-horses in the 
street ready to mount, while Mustapha had gone to the 
camping-ground to meet us outside the city with our 
tents. It rained some, and the clouds looked a little 
black and threatening. I mounted my horse, rode out to 
the camp of Mr. R., outside the Jaffa Gate, to consult 
about starting, and got caught in a shower, against which 
my mackintosh was proof. I found his tents struck, and 
himself and party waiting the result of the weather. 
We concluded to remain a while longer, and as in an 
hour the clouds broke, we detei'mined to run the risk and 
start for Solomon's Pools, where we could encamp if 
found necessary, instead of proceeding to Hebron. 

As soon as I returned to Max Unger's, we mounted, 
and were joined by Mr. R. and party, all leaving by 
the Jaffa Gate, after a slight inspection there by the 
custom-house officers. Descending the hill, we crossed 
a plcrtn, and soon came to some large convents and 
hospitals. At Jacob's Well and Rachel's Tomb we 
stopped to gather wild-flowers, by which time the 
weather, though cool, had improved, and all signs of 
rain had disappeared. In two hours and a half, the 
Pools of Solomon were in sight, and concluding to stop 
here for lunch only, orders were scut forward to our 



JOURNEY TO HEBRON. 125 

servants countermanding the intended encampment. 
While taking our lunch under the walls of a building- 
near the massive and gigantic reservoirs, a party of 
gentlemen with their Dragoman, servants, and baggage 
on camels arrived, that had crossed the desert from 
the Eed Sea, bound to Jerusalem. We all took a 
walk to inspect the famous works here built to supply 
the city with pure fresh water, contained in three 
basins of finely constructed masonry, the aggregate 
dimensions of whose interiors measure three million and 
a half cubic feet, and are fed by the mountain streams. 

After leaving, we began to ascend the steep and 
rocky path of the mountain, which was often difficult 
to find, as it branched ofi" in several directions, requiring 
great judgment in taking the right one, and avoiding 
the mud-holes and bad places among the rocks. De- 
scending to a plain, a shorter path was visible in the 
valley, which in dry weather can be used instead of 
the circuitous one along the hills. Continually gaining 
a higher altitude, valleys and mountains were crossed 
in slow and lengthened succession, and weiaried with 
many hours' riding, we impatiently looked from the 
summits to catch a glance of Hebron. Finally, as we 
came to a valley, the numerous vineyards, olive and 
fig trees which covered it and the hillsides, indicated 
the approach to the city of Father Abraham. We 
next passed along a narrow walled passage over 
mud, stones, and water, and emerged into higher 
ground in sight of the walls of ancient Hebron, 
nestled in the valley on the sides of one of the hills, 
opposite to which we found, at six o'clock, our tents 
pitched. 



126 LETTER 11, 

As we rode up, a crowd of noisy boys were annoying 
the servants, while vendors of chickens, eggs, milk, bread, 
(fee, were watching the operations of Achmet Shaheen 
at the kitchen tent. The infidel youths were soon 
dispersed, the others remaining to trade with the 
Dragoman or gaze at the hated Christians, there being 
none in Hebron. Our ride of five hours and a half since 
lunch had fatigued us, but we enjoyed an excellent din- 
ner, and though the bright moonlight scene without was 
tempting, soon retired to rest. 



LETTER III. 

HEBRON. TOMB OP ABRAHAM. THE OAK. ENCAMP AT 

POOLS OF SOLOMON. — BETHLEHEM. OUR SHEIKH AND 

GUARD. MAR-SABA. OUR ENCAMPMENT. DESCENT TO 

THE DEAD SEA. THE VALLEY AND RIVER OP JORDAN. 

ARRIVAL AND ENCAMPMENT AT JERICHO. GREAT HEAT. 

RET URN TO JERUSALEM. • A STORM DRIVES US PROM 

OUR TENTS. MAX UNGER's HOUSE. LEAVE FOR JAFFA. 

NEBU-SAMUEL. LYDDA. ENCAMP AT JAFFA. 

The morning was calm and clear, with a warm sun. 
Having breakfasted early, we rode to see the city, the 
camping-ground of the patriarchs, the resting-place of 
Abraham and family, and the oldest city in the world 
next to Damascus. Our tents and baggage were sent 
forward, while we entered its narrow and venerable 
streets, and went to the great Haram, within whose 
walls is the sacred mosque or sanctuary which no 
Christian eyes are permitted to see. Beneath this, in 
the cave of Machpelah, lie buried Abraham and his wife, 
Sarah, together with Isaac and Rebekah, Jacob and 
Leah. The inhabitants of the city offered us no in- 
dignity, as they have done to some others heretofore. 
We noticed the men and children were particularly 
fine looking, and that there were some Jews in the 



128 LETTER III. 

streets. Wine not being allowed by the laws of Mo: 
hammed, the grapes here are mostly dried, though they are 
sold in Jerusalem, where good wine is made for sale by 
Christians. 

On emerging from the walls of the city, we rode to 
Abraham's Oak, a mile or two distant, where we stopped 
some time under its widespread branches, one of which 
had been disposed of last year to make into articles for 
sale. Our ride back to Solomon's Pools was a very 
pleasant one, during which we stopped at a beautiful 
spot near an old ruin for lunch, and arrived at 4 p. m. at 
our camp. The tents, seven in number, including those 
of Mr. E., were pitched in a delightful spot near the 
Pools, and made a very pretty appearance from the hill, 
as we descended into the valley. The weather was mild, 
the temperature being 72° at 5 p. m., but falling to 50° 
during the night. A pleasant walk, dinner, a bright 
moonlight evening, and a good night's rest were enjoyed 
successively. 

The weather was calm and clear when we arose at six, 
breakfasted at seven, and both parties were punctually 
in their saddles, with tents struck and baggage on the 
mules, at eight, for Mar-Saba, vid Bethlehem. Passing 
the Pools, we rode along the rough sides of the mountain 
beside the water aqueduct, with a view beneath us of a 
lovely valley, with very finely cultivated gardens of fruit 
and vegetables raised for the Jerusalem market. A 
pleasant and romantic ride brought us in an hour and a 
half to the birthplace of our Saviour. This town, unlike 
Hebron, is inhabited by Christians, who have it in their 
possession by treaty with Turkey. Its outward appear- 



THE CHURCH OF THE NATIVITY. 129 

ance indicates the difference of the inhabitants of the two 
cities, this looking more fresh and European. We rode 
through the town and dismounted at the Church of the 
Nativity, in possession of the Greek Church, where we 
were beset by Jews and Christians to purchase mother-of- 
pearl rosaries and sculptured religious pieces, the impor- 
tunate vendors even following us into the sanctuary. 
We had them expelled, and were permitted to penetrate 
and inspect the walls and cells of this really impressive 
and interesting place without interruption. 

This church, surrounded by the Greek, Latin, and 
Armenian convents, is the oldest in the world. It was 
erected by Helena in the year a. d. 327. The ceiling 
is made from cedars of Lebanon. We descended into the 
crypt of the chapel, the floor and walls of which are of 
marble, and lighted by 40 gold and silver lamps, pre- 
sented by different sovereigns of Europe. At the eastern 
end is a silver star at an altar, around which are the 
words in Latin : " Here Christ was born of the Virgin 
Mary." Near by is a recess in the rock, in which is a 
block of marble hollowed out to represent the manger. 
All the surroundings are of the richest gold and silver 
ornaments, with precious stones. The velvet hangings of 
the altar of the place of nativity are entirely covered over 
with figures of the Virgin and Child, apostolic pictures 
and angels, the faces of whom are of fine enamel, with 
robes of pure gold studded with diamonds, rubies, em- 
eralds, and pearls. At regular distances between the pic- 
tures are about forty stars, richly worked in threads of 
gold with diamond centres and ruby and emerald points. 
Sixteen of the centre_ stones nearest within reach had 

9 



130 LETTER III. 

been stolen ! We descended into the Grotto of St. Jerome, 
where he spent the greater part of his life, and next saw 
the Altar of the Innocents, 20,000 of whom were buried 
here after the massacre by Herod. 

Leaving the church, we were again beset by the ven- 
dors of articles made from mother-of-pearl, stone, and 
wood finely carved, from whom we made several pur- 
chases, and then gladly effected our escape, followed by 
some of them a considerable distance. At the base of 
the hilKwe were joined by an Arab Sheikh well mounted 
and armed, and a guard of eight men on foot, poorly 
equipped with old flint-lock muskets. They had been 
engaged at Jerusalem, as customary, to attend us to the 
Dead Sea and the Jordan for protection against the wan- 
dering tribes of Bedouin Arabs who plunder and rob when 
a chance presents. They inhabit the country mostly 
bordering on the east side of the Dead Sea and Jordan, 
on the plains of Moab. As we wended our way, we fre- 
quently stopped to cull some of the beautiful wild-flow- 
ers which grow in pi'ofusion near the city, among them 
the well-known star of Bethlehem. At a convenient 
spot, we stopped to lunch, and continued our ride over 
a wild, mountainous, stony, and sandy country, with only 
a few stunted bushes here and there, and not a Jbouse or 
any living creature in sight but those in our lengthened 
caravan of nine Christians, with twenty-nine Ai'ab atten- 
dants. Some of the valleys looked fearfully deep below 
us, but our well-trained and careful horses gave us con- 
fidence, and the most remarkable scenery of this wild 
region was much enjoyed for its novelty. 

At three o'clock, we arrived at the immense structure 



CONVENT OP MAR-SABA. 131 

of the Russian Convent of Mar-Saba, situated in the wild 
gorge of the mountains, looking, with its high towers, 
walls, buttresses, and gates, like a stronghold or fortress. 
It was thus constructed to protect the monks from the 
incursions of the wild Bedouins. Having a special per- 
mit from the Grand Patriarch of the Greek Church at 
Jerusalem, it was put into a basket, which was lowered 
from the tower eighty feet above us, and then the gate 
was opened for the gentlemen only, women never being 
admitted. We entered, leaving the ladies to take shel- 
ter from the hot sun under an arched wall. In the 
chapel, forty monks ranged on either side were at service. 
We were shown over the different buildings, rising one 
above another, the hospital, belfiy, and others, also a 
pretty flower and vegetable garden ; then ascended the 
tower, 250 steps high from the lowest part of the build- 
ing, and commanding a very fine view. Descending again 
to the court-yard, we made some purchases of articles 
manufactured by the monks, and afterwards visited the 
grotto curiously cut out in the sides of the rocky prom- 
ontory, in which lived and died a celebrated and sainted 
monk. Refreshing ourselves from a never-failing foun- 
tain of running water in the chapel, and declining other 
refreshments, which, as also lodgings, are offered travel- 
lei's without tents, we took leave, and found the ladies 
already gone to our camp, two miles distant. A fine road 
led us into the deep valley a thousand feet below, where 
our tents were pitched within a half-mile of those of some 
Bedouins. After the rest of the party had retired, the 
Doctor and myself strolled about the camp, and were 
entertained with a dance by our guard, which cost us 
some of the inevitable backsheesh. 



132 LETTER III. 

The morning was clear and calm, with a temperature 
of 64° at sunrise. Our two parties were ready mounted 
at the fixed hour of eight, for starting on the long-di-eaded 
and hard day's journey to the Dead Sea, by a steep descent 
of 5,000 feet, thence to the River Jordan and Jericho, a 
ride of ten hours. As we wended our way over the deso- 
late hills, our caravan made an imposing appearance, con- 
sisting of 28 individuals and 35 horses and mules. After 
long winding descents, following the course of a mountain 
torrent, we came to the low country of the Jordan and 
Dead Sea, reaching the latter about noon. Situated 
between mountains, it is nearly fifty miles in length by 
seventeen in breadth, and lies 4,000 feet below Jerusalem, 
or 1,300 feet lower than the Mediterranean. 

While some of the party were strolling along the 
shores of this wonderfully salt lake, others went off with 
the guard and enjoyed a refreshing bath in it. The 
water is extremely buoyant, and is as salt as that of 
St. Catherine's "Wells, in Canada West. From here, the 
ride across the plains of Jordan, now barren and sandy, 
was an excessively hot one, and after an hour's discom- 
fort, we gladly welcomed near the river the first trees we 
had seen for two days. Under their shade, we found 
reclining two other parties from Jerusalem, vid Jericho, 
taking what we all needed, rest and lunch. While here, 
I was joined by others in taking a bath in the turbid 
waters of the Jordan, relieving us of the salt of the Dead 
Sea, while some contented themselves with dipping their 
hands and faces in the sacred river. 

Having filled our tin cans, brought for the purpose, 
with its waters, and getting some sticks of the willow, 



INTENSE HEAT. 133 

we mounted our horses for a two hours' ride across the 
plain to Jericho, where we arrived about 6 P. M. Our 
tents, which had been sent forward by a shorter route 
after leaving Mar-Saba, we found pitched in a pleasant 
spot beside a running stream, outside the old town. The 
thermometer at that hour stood at 84° in the shade ! 

The morning was calm, clear, and very hot, the mer- 
cury at 7 A. M. being 70° outside in the shade. We rose 
early, and left at eight o'clock, in company with two other 
parties that we met at the Jordan, and had encamped 
near us. A rough and long ascent of the mountains was 
to be made, we being 5,300 feet below Jerusalem. The 
path being the worst we had seen, and fortunately was to 
be ascended instead of descended, proved our determina- 
tion to reverse the order of our five days' journey to be 
a wise one, as the dreaded descent of Mar-Saba was not 
as bad as represented. The heat of the sun became so 
intense, that we had to employ all means to keep off the 
burning rays. Before eleven o'clock, we were glad to 
obtain the shelter of some old walls where there was a 
well, and rested and lunched on the shady side, remain- 
ing there two hours. During the next three or four 
hours the heat, nearly alike on mountain as in valley — 
there being no air stirring — became so insupportable, 
that we took shelter beside an old ruin. We were near 
Bethany, whose heights we began to ascend as the sun 
declined behind the western hills before us ; and from 
their summits continued our way around the Mount of 
Olives, by the Garden of Gethsemane, the Valley of 
Jehoshaphat, and the northern walls of Jerusalem, to our 
tents, ready for us with the usual promptness. The 



134 LETTER III. 

party of Mr. R. had left us at the last stopping-place, 
and were encamped on the Mount of Olives. Our Sheikh 
and his men had been paid off, and took their leave of 
each of us before reaching Bethany. 

While' sitting at table, dining, I was suddenly seized 
with the symptoms of sun-stroke, and left immediately 
for my tent, where I threw myself on the bed, drank 
freely of brandy, had a jug of hot water placed to my 
feet, cold applications to my head, and was entirely free 
in the morning from the effects of the hottest day I 
ever expeiienced. The rest of the party suffered no 
such consequences, having used white umbrellas, which 
I had not. 

The morning of the 23d was very warm, the clouds 
and wind from the S. W. threatening rain. Before noon 
the thermometer rose to 90° in the shade. Some of us 
went into the city to make purchases of photographs, &c. 
While here, we met our friends Mr. and Mrs. H., who 
had arrived from Egypt with their Dragoman and tents, 
during our absence, and our pleasant voyages on the Nile 
were talked over and conti'asted with the " hard I'oad of 
Jordan." The weather was showery in the afternoon, 
and in the evening we had a thundei'-storm. Soon after 
midnight it commenced blowing, accompanied with a 
heavy rain, thunder, and lightning. All of us had to 
bestir ourselves to keep our beds and luggage from get- 
ting wet, while El Adli, Mustapha, and the servants 
were keeping the tents secure outside. 

The following day, the wind and rain continuing, and 
our tents being in a wot condition, we resolved to quit 
them and take up our old quarters in Max Unger's 



WEATHERBOUND IN JERUSALEM. 135 

house, should they be vacant. This was somewhat 
doubtful, as the hotels were overflowing with travellers, 
mostly Americans, who had left their tents in conse- 
quence of the bad weather. The apartments were found 
vacant, and engaged immediately, not any too soon, as 
they were applied for ten minutes afterwards. By nine 
o'clock, the ladies were conveyed to our excellent quarters, 
sitting around a stove to dry their garments, and were 
soon refreshed by a substantial breakfast, prepared by 
our own servants and cook. We had a visit from some 
Nile friends in the evening, who had to recount stories 
of tents blown down, of ladies who had to seek shelter in 
coffee-shops the preceding night, which quite reconciled 
us to the discomforts we had undergone. 

We had determined, as part of our plan, to start the 
next day for Jaffa, there to embark for Beyrout by 
steamer, where we could be in easy reach of Damascus, 
instead of taking the usual long route to the latter city 
by way of ISTablous, Samaria, Jenin, Nazareth, Lake 
Tiberias, Capernaum, Safed, and Bauias, which requires 
at least ten days of consecutive travelling with tents. 
This is a great objection, should the weather prove bad ; 
but if the traveller desires particularly to extend his tent 
life and see the places named in the foregoing route, he 
had better defer visiting Syria to a later period in spring, 
— • though it is said the rains came later this year than 
usual. 

The weather appearing unsettled, and our tents being 
wet, determined us to wait in Jerusalem another day, 
which allowed us time to visit the shops, make calls, and 
write some letters. The morning was fair, and as prepa- 



136 LETTER III. 

rations had been made the evening previoiis to take 
advantage of it, we were all ready in our saddles, and 
started at eight o'clock for Jaffa, vid Nebu-Samuel and 
Bethoron. Leaving by the Damascus Gate, we bid adieu 
to the old gray walls of Jerusalem forever, and met our 
baggage and tents under the charge of Mustapha, who 
led the way, while El Adli remained as usual with us to 
look after the comfort of the ladies. After a long circui- 
tous ascent, we reached the top of Nebu-Samuel, from 
which we obtained a fine view of the plain of Gibeon and 
surrounding country. It was here that the leaders of 
the great Christian crusade stojDped over night before 
their attack on Jerusalem. 

Descending, we reached a spot near Gibeon, where we 
lunched, and then proceeded on till we reached New 
Bethoron, where El Adli expected to find our tents 
pitched. We found none there, and wei-e apprehensive 
we should have to go to Lydda for them, a much longer 
ride than we cared to take, as it was getting late. A 
little farther on, we espied them in a valley two miles 
distant, and on arriving, learned that this spot had been 
wisely selected as a much better one for encamping. 

The following morning was cloudy, and weather com- 
fortable, with the wind from a fair quarter, and having 
an easy journey before xas, we started at ten o'clock for 
Jaffa. Our course was over gently undulating hills, until 
we reached the pretty-appearing town of Lydda, sur- 
rounded with luxuriant fields, and standing on an emi- 
nence crowned with olive and other trees. Ramleh, our 
first camping-ground, was in sight a few miles off" on the 
other route to Jerusalem. Passing through the filthy 



137 



streets of the town, we came to the pretty ruins of the 
Church of St. George, supposed to have been built by 
Richard Coeur-de-Lion. The gentlemen there ascended 
the minaret tower of a Moslem mosque, where a fine 
view was had. It was in this town that Peter performed 
the miracle of curing ^neas (Acts ix. 32—36). Our lunch 
was spread a short distance outside the town under some 
large trees, and after a brief stay we resumed our jour- 
ney. On approaching Jaffa, the air was redolent with the 
perfume of orange-blossoms from the extensive groves 
through which we rode for nearly two miles, when we 
emerged into the market-place outside the city, near 
the Jerusalem Gate. Proceeding along the outer walls 
southerly to the quarantine hill, we found our tents 
pitched there and ready for us at five o'clock. From 
this spot a fine view of the sea was had, as also of the 
city and of the Jaffa Colony, about a mile distant. 
Having hoisted the American flag on the highest branch 
of a tree, we dined, and retired to rest. 



LETTER IV. 

THE AMERICAN COLONY AT JAFFA. RAIN AGAIN. LEAVE 

TENTS FOR THE CONVENT. EMBARK FOB BBYROUT. 

ARRIVAL. THE CITY. RIDE TO DAMASCUS IN DILI- 
GENCE. DEMETRl'S HOTEL. VISIT TO CONSUL. THE 

BAZAARS. VIEW OF CITY FROM SALINBH. VISIT TO 

MRS. DIGBY. LEAVE DAMASCUS. 

The moi'ning was cloudy, and the wind from the east 
soon after changed to S. S. W. After having called on 
the Vice-Consul, Mr. Loewenthal, we took a walk to the 
American Colony, a short distance from the city walls, 
to see it for ourselves, having heard so many conflicting 
opinions and statements concerning its condition. Mr. 
Bidwell, as has been mentioned, had visited it to make 
a report to Secretary Seward, with what result I know 
not. It seemed to me that the published reports of the 
sickness and deaths had been exaggerated, as on referring 
to the register at the . Consulate, there had been, out of 
the whole number of 156 who landed in October to the 
present time, only 14 deaths, and four of these were 
adults of over 38 years of age. Nine of the children 
were under three years, the other one eight years old. 
No deaths had occurred for the last four months. 

Wc found the village looking quite like a Western one 



THE AMERICAN COLONY. 139 

just settled by New England emigrants. It had a group 
of wooden dwellings, mostly without clapboai-ds on their 
walls, among them the frame of a large three-story build- 
ing being erected for a hotel, and, conspicuous for its size 
and superiority, a nice-looking, finished house, occupied by 
the temporal and spiritual leader of the colony. Elder 
Adams. We called upon him, aiid found his wife to be 
an extraordinarily strong-minded woman, possessing a 
large share of ambition and Yankee " smartness." They 
gave us a very favorable account of the condition and 
prospects of the Colony, excepting, as they stated, there 
were without reason a very few indolent or discontented 
ones. 

Our visit to some of the disaffected families convinced 
ns there were two sides to the question. They appeared 
to be very honest, simple-minded, and industrious. Their 
dwellings evinced neatness, and the personal appearance 
of the grown-up sons and daughters was highly creditable 
to the New England character. A careful inquiry led ns 
to the conclusion that nearly half of the Colony were dis- 
appointed in their expectations, and were irreconcilably 
opposed to, and divided from, those who wished, with 
Mr. Adams, to remain. Their several stories agreed, and 
led to the same conclusion ; and as " a house divided 
against itself cannot stand," it seemed to us better for 
the opposing parties to separate, those wishing to leave, 
to be provided with the necessary means of doing so. 

While doubtless a flourishing and united colony of 
Christians here so near Jerusalem might, under proper 
direction, be a very desirable object for the good in- 
fluences it would give to the Christian cause, which is 



140 LETTER IV. 

rapidly gaining ground in Syria, especially at Beyrout, 
it is very important that the unhappy dissensions among 
the Christians of Jaffa should speedily cease. -^ 

The return to our camp at five o'clock "was just in time 
to escape a shower, and our tents were again drenched. 
The rain continued for two hours, at the end of which 
time the Vice-Consul called by appointment, and as we 
were to take the steamer the following morning, and a 
rainy night was in prospect, we concluded to leave for the 
hotel or convent. A muddy walk brought us to the for- 
mer, which finding quite full, we were accompanied by 
the Consul to our old quarters, the Latin Convent, where 
we were accommodated for the night. By the invitation 
of Mr. Loewenthal, in company with one of the gentle- 
men of our part}^, I accompanied him to his house, near 
by, where we found his wife and Mrs. R., of Boston, their 
guesti and had a pleasant hour's conversation. 

The following morning, which was a calm and cloudy 
one, I rose very early, before the nearest gates were 
opened, and went out to our camp by the Jerusalem 
Gate, to have our luggage and all hands on board the 
Austrian steamer, which was to leave for Bej^rout at 
9 o'clock A. M. Our tents being too wet to pack, it was 
arranged that they should follow us with the servants 
by the French steamei', to leave in the afternoon. El 
Adli accompanied us on board at the hour, and the tran- 
sit to the " Pluto " was in happy contrast to the one when 
we landed here. There were many other Americans, and 
as the weather soon cleared off finely, our short passage 

^ The Colony soon after returned to the United States. 



BEYROUT. 141 

promised to be a pleasant one. The coast view was very 
beautiful, and at Caiffa, near Mount Carmel, we stopped a 
short time to land passengers. The day continued fine, 
and the night was a quiet one on the steamer, except about 
thi'ee o'clock a. m., when she dropped anchor at Beyrout. 

The view which greeted us on going on deck the next 
morning was a very lovely one. The weather, calm and 
fine, afforded us an excellent opportunity of seeing to 
advantage the beautiful panorama of the city, with the 
hills around it, and the mountains of Lebanon in the 
distance, their summits tipped with snow, and their 
sides, with the intervening valleys, clothed with the 
foliage of the mulberry, grape, fig, and olive trees. 
There are many fine houses in the suburbs, surrounded 
with gardens, which impart an additional beauty to the 
scene. 

We landed at the custom-house, where the usual ex- 
amination takes place, and where my passport, which 
I had not shown since leaving France, was asked for. I 
referred the officers, as I had done before in the Turkish 
and Egyptian dominions, to the American Consul, as I 
knew they had no right to see it. At the Hotel d'Orient, 
kept by Nicolas Bassoul, we were very comfortably lodged, 
and found his table an excellent one, so much so, that 
we decided to lay aside tents a while, if not finally. Our 
first object was to engage places to and from Damascus 
in the diligence at the bureau «of the French Company, 
who have built at a heavy expense a most perfect road 
over the Lebanon mountains, and take passengers through 
in 12 hoiirs. Places were secured for the desired days 
in the coupe and imperial for our party, and one in the 



142 LETTER IV, 

interieur for our Dragoman ; it having been arranged as 
a part of our programme to visit Baalbec from Stoura 
(the half-way station on the road) on our return from 
Damascus, meeting there our servants and horses for 
the trip to and from Baalbec. As accommodation for a 
night at both places could be obtained, our tents might 
be dispensed with, and the necessary provisions, &c., 
brought on a mule ; saving time, trouble, and the risk 
of rain in the valley between the two raiiges of the 
Lebanon, in which our route lay. 

We found rumors prevailing here of an intended mas- 
sacre of the Christians in Damascus, and many families 
of the natives, remembering the dreadful one of 1861, 
wei'e already fleeing hither from there. We were how- 
ever assured by our Consul, Mr. Johnson, since appointed 
Consul-Genernl, that there was no danger. The excite- 
ment "there against the Christians was caused by a pro- 
clamation in relation to the wounded Turks fighting in 
Candia; and the Governor afterwards neutralized it by 
another one issued by the intervention and at the urgent 
demand of the foreign Consuls, which calmed the inflamed 
passions of the Mohammedans. 

While awaiting three days our time of departure, we 
visited the bazaars and many interesting places in and 
about the city. It has a 2:)opulation of about 50,000, 
mostly Christians, who have embellished it; and a lai'ge 
trade with Europe and Syria gives it the aspect of a 
European city. Its growth has been rapid the last few 
years, and there are many excellent institutions, one of 
which we visited, and sliould be seen by all Americans 
stopping here. The School of the American Mission, 



THE SCHOOL OP THE AMERICAN MISSION. 143 

established four years since, is a model one, and within 
a year has been removed to the spacious new building 
erected for the purpose, and occupying a fine and con- 
spicuous site. Miss Gregory, a young native, has done 
a vast amount of labor in organizing and getting the 
school into its present perfect condition, under the 
supervision of Mr. Jessup and his assistant. The eighty 
scholars went through their exercises for us, singing in 
Arabic and English exceedingly well. 

The weather remained fine, and the temperature very 
equal, varying but little the three days, from 70° at night 
to 75° during the day. The Sabbath spent here was a 
quiet one, most of the shops being closed, except in the 
Turkish quarter. The soldiers seemed to make it a holi- 
day, playing various games in the great Square. The 
market was well supplied with new marrowfat peas, beans, 
potatoes, vegetable-marrow, squashes, lettuce, radishes, 
celery, &c. During the third day, we tried the horses 
hired for our Baalbec excursion, and rode out to a forest 
of young pines, near which a regiment of Turkish infantry 
was encamped for the night, on its way to Damascus. 

Our obliging landlord called us long before daybreak, 
and had a hot breakfast ready, which fortified us for the 
diligence ride. He accompanied us with El Adli to the 
office, where our luggage was weighed, and the overweight 
of 25 lbs. allowance to each person paid for. Punctually 
at four o'clock, we started, with a fall complement of 14 
passengers. The morning was pleasant, and our ascent 
of Mount Lebanon over this fine macadamized road, well 
graded by a skilful engineer, was easily done with four 
horses, which were changed about every two hours. As 



144 LETTER IV. 

we nenred the highest summit of the road, in five hours 
aud a half from starting, the wild hyacinth with its purple 
blossoms perfumed the air, now grown quite cold from the 
vicinity of snow. Our descent was a very rapid one over 
the winding and gradually descending grade. A fine view 
of Gebeleh Sheikh, the highest mountain in Syria, was 
had, with its summit covered with a heavy body of snow. 
Before noon, we reached Stoura, where El Adli served, 
on the banks of a stream, by the little French restaurant, 
a lunch from his canteen, though we might have obtained 
a tolerable breakfast, had we wished, in the house. 

After crossing the plains, we ascended and passed 
through a romantic goi-ge of the Anti-Lebanon range, and 
then along beside the running stream, the Barada, which 
supplies Damascus with pure water. Emerging into a 
valley, the minarets of the city appeared, while its build- 
ings Avere mostly veiled from view by the surrounding 
groves. At six o'clock, the soiind of the bugle from our 
lively conductor, and the crack of the whip of the pos- 
tilion, announced our arrival at the entrance of the 
famed City of Uz, who was the grandson of Noah, and 
founded it. We were soon comfortably lodged in the 
only hotel of the place, the Locanda Melluk, kept by 
Demetri, a Greek. It was well filled, there being over 
thirty Americans, a j^art of whom were to leave the next 
day for their tents, en route to Baalbec and Beyrout. All 
had come from Jerusalem "overland," and had experi- 
enced considerable rainy weather ; among them some of 
our old friends just arrived who had left there before us. 
The wares and silk stuffs of " Old Antique " were in the 
evening displayed as usual in the recess which opened 



VISIT TO THE CONSUL. 145 

into the court of the hotel, with its fountain and orange- 
trees. The sayings and doings of this eccentric Oriental 
pedler amused us much. 

The morning of the third of April succeeding our 
arrival was very fine, and the mercury at 70°. It was 
improved by taking a walk in the market, and seeing two 
parties, numbering 18, start off with their camp equipage 
for Baalbec; after which we visited the Great Mosque, 
with its three minarets, one of which we ascended. From 
here we went by special permission to the harem of a 
wealthy merchant, the interior of which the ladies saw, 
with some of its fiiir inmates, while the gentlemen waited 
in the coffee and smoking room. Some richly furnished 
houses belonging to Jews were next visited. One of them 
contained several generations of the same family, with 
a large nursery of young children living together ; the 
saloons and apartments seen were richly decorated and 
furnished. 

The following day, the horse-market was visited early 
in the morning, where among about fifty horses, some of 
the wildest had to be caught with the lasso. It took 
several strong men to hold one when caught. At the 
invitation of Mr. Mechaka, our Consul, who sent his 
cavasse for us, the gentlemen of our party paid him a 
visit. The veteran representative of the Great Republic 
is a wealthy Syrian Christian, formerly a physician, is a 
large, fine-looking man, and occupies an elegant, richly 
decorated and furnished house, with a fine garden at- 
tached. He welcomed us very warmly, and with one of 
his sons, who spoke French and English, entertained us 
with pipes, coffee, and sweetmeats. From him we learnt 

10 



146 LETTER IV. 

that during the great massacre of 1861, he was struck 
down with the blow of a sword on the forehead, the singu- 
lar effects of which he was just in part getting over, it 
having deprived him of the sense of smelling some things, 
while others were so obnoxious, that he had lived five 
years without meat and most kinds of vegetables and 
fruit. The remainder of the day was spent in making 
purchases in the bazaars, most of which are situated in 
"the street that is called Straight." 

A part of the following day being rainy, I went with 
El Adli to the bazaars. It being the Moslem sabbath, 
the covered streets of this great resort were thronged 
with crowds of people from the country, curious to be- 
hold. The numerous cook-shops were well patronized by 
them, and the manner of cooking and dispensing strange 
dishes was exceedingly novel and interesting. Two par- 
ties from Jerusalem arrived " overland," among them our 
old companions of the five days' journey, who had experi- 
enced a hard time, and were glad to enjoy the comforts 
of a hotel again. 

The rain next day ceasing a while, we took a ride on 
donkeys to the heights of Saliueh, where a fine view of 
the city was had. Damascus, suiTounded by hills and 
situated in a valley, is set with a deep fringe of the dark 
foliage of its surrounding groves and gardens, giving it a 
very picturesque appearance. It is called the oldest city 
in the world, dating back over 4,000 years, and consid- 
ered in its aspect, the most Oriental. The inhabitants 
number over 160,000, five-sixths of whom are Mohamme- 
dans, the rest Christians (mostly native) and Jews. There 
are about 400 public cook-shops, 200 mosques, eight 



VISIT TO MRS. DIGBY. 147 

synagogues, and eight convents and churches. The Chris- 
tians, Jews, and Turks inhabit separate quarters of the 
city, and the gates are closed at sunset. 

Having sent our cards to the " Honorable Mrs. Digby," 
an hour was assigned by her to receive us, and accord- 
ingly we improved it to see this remarkable woman, whose 
life has been so checkered a one. A daughter of Admiral 
Digby, and of extraordinary beauty, she married at an 
early age Lord Ellenborough, then eloped with a German 
baron, and afterwards became the wife of a Greek count, 
whose friends persuaded him to separate from her. Sub- 
sequently, having been rescued from danger in travelling 
to Palmyra by her escort, a fine-looking Sheikh, and chief 
of a tribe of Bedouins, she was enamoured of him and 
became his wife, remaining so for many years to the 
present time. She is now over sixty years of age, and 
lives in a fine house fitted up in the Oriental style, hav- 
ing one of the best gardens attached to be found in 
Damascus. She is supported mostly by an income from 
her English connections, and is known in English circles 
as Lady Digby. -^ 

Her ladyship received iis in a very cordial manner, but 
was suffering from a sprained ankle caused by a fall from 
her horse some weeks previous. She insisted, however, 
on showing us through her suite of rooms, which embraced 
a square saloon and a pretty octagonal one connected, and 
richly decorated in Oriental style. I noticed on the walls 
the beautiful painting of herself when young, and that of 
her father, the renowned Admiral. She alluded freely to 

^ Lady Digby has recently died. 



148 LETTER IV. 

the gi'eat change in her looks, showed us a photograph of 
her Sheikh, then absent ; and her frankness, general 
deportment, and conversation were prepossessing, and 
evinced quite a change in the once gay Lady Ellen- 
borough. Although having plenty of servants, she in- 
sisted on accompanying us through the garden to the 
Btables, where were some fine horses, and in the yard 
some gazelles and a collection of poultry. We were then 
shown her summer-house, with a handsome suite of apart- 
ments, in Oriental style, a fountain in the centre of the 
smoking-roona, the whole building carefully screened by 
trees and shrubbery from the rays of the sun. Having 
gratified a desire to see one whose histoiy has been 
adverted to by several authors, we left for the bazaars. 

The next morning, all arose before three o'clock to 
take the diligence for Stoui-a, where we expected to meet 
our horses for Baalbec. At four o'clock we were in our 
secured places, and soon after sunrise the cold morning 
mist gave way to occasional sunshine. Having crossed 
the first range of mountains, some of whose summits are 
about 7,000 feet high, we entered the plain from which 
the other Lebanon I'ange looked beautiful in sunshine 
and shadow. Stoura was reached at eleven o'clock, 
where our horses were in waiting, and we then left the 
diligence to have a hot breakfast at the restaurant, pre- 
paratory to starting for Baalbec. 



LETTER V. 

A PLEASANT RIDE TO BAALBEC. SLEEP IN AN ARAB 

HOUSE. A STORMY NIGHT. VISIT TO THE GREAT 

TEMPLES AND QUARRIES. A STORMY DAY's RIDE TO 

STOURA. A NIGHT AT THE RESTAURANT. A PINE 

DAY, AND DILIGENCE RIDE TO BEYROUT. PREPARA- 
TIONS FOR DEPARTURE. EMBARK FOR EUROPE. 

PARTING WITH OUR FAITHFUL EGYPTIANS. VOYAGE 

ALONG THE COAST OF SYRIA. CONCLUSION. • 

While the diligence stopped its usual hour, and we 
were at breakfast, the clouds on the mountains looked so 
dense and threatening that the ladies abandoned the 
idea of a two days' ride on horseback in such uncertain 
weathei', and concluded to return by the diligence to 
Beyrout, Mr. L. also wisely deciding to accompany them. 
Being provided with rubber garments, I determined to 
go, even if alone ; but the Doctor was as anxious to visit 
the great ruins as myself, and after the diligence left we 
were soon mounted, choosing the best of the sis horses, 
which with their attendants followed us and El Adli. 
We took the precaution to engage for sleeping, the night 
of the following day, on our return, the only obtainable 
room, that of the salle-h-manger of the restaurant, order- 
ing also a hot dinner to be ready for us. The French- 



150 LETTER V. 

man and his wife, -who keep it, appropriate the rest of 
the snug quarters for themselves and for some employes 
of the company stationed here. 

Soon after starting, the weather cleared up finely, and 
we had a delightful ride of five and a half hours through 
the valley between the Lebanon and the Anti-Lebanon 
range of mountains, which were covered .with snow, and, 
in alternate sunshine and shadow, looked very beautiful. 
On arriving at the confines of Baalbec, only a small mis- 
erable village, near which the ruins raise their majestic 
heads, we parted from El Adli, leaving him to arrange 
for our night's quarters, and galloped toward the temples, 
entering their midst just before sunset shed its parting 
rays upon the walls of these wondrous monuments of art 
and architecture, of which we took a survey, and reluc- 
tantly left for our lodgings. These we found were 
engaged in the house of a Christian Arab, whose family 
did all they could to make us comfortable. Fires were 
lighted, dinner cooked, and tolerable beds made for us on 
the floor, there being neither bedstead?, tables, nor chairs, 
— all useless furniture in an Arab house. In the even- 
ing, we gathered with them around a fire in an adjoining 
room, and, seated on mats, kept up a lively conversation. 
El Adli acting as interpreter. 

A stoi'm of rain, with thunder and lightning, prevailed 
for some houi'S in the night, but did not prevent us from 
having a good repose. After a hot breakfast from our 
canteen, the rain ceasing, we again visited the Temples of 
Jupiter and the Sun, surrounded by immense walls and 
towers. The subterranean passages by which we entered 
are on a grander scale than anything of the kind I ever 



THE TEMPLE OF JUPITER. 151 

beheld. The origin of these temples is not known, but 
Persians, Greeks, and Romans have in turn possessed 
them, and in 639 a. d. they were pillaged by the Arabs. 
The fortress was partially destroyed by the warlike Tar- 
tar, Tamerlane, having suffered much in the wars of the 
crusades. Some of the foundation-stones are 63 feet 
long, 15 wide, and 13 thick. There are many ashlers in 
the walls 20 feet above their foundation, which measure 
30 by 15 feet, and are 13 feet in thickness. The two tem- 
ples, together with a circular one, were built upon an 
immense platform raised 30 feet above the plain. That 
of the Sun was 290 by 160 feet, and had 54 Corinthian 
columns 75 feet high, and over 7 feet diameter at the 
base. The huge capstones, reaching from pillar to 
pillar, were clamped together with wrought iron a foot in 
thickness. Only a small remnant of the once majestic 
colonnade now remains standing ; other parts lie strewed 
around. 

The temple of Jupiter, 230 feet long by 120 wide, is in 
a comparatively perfect state, more so than any other 
in Syria. No description can convey any adeqiiate idea 
of the grandeur of its architecture, the beautiful details 
of which serve as models for the finest specimens of 
modern ornamentation. These temples combine the 
Doric, Tuscan, and Coi'intbian orders with the Jewish; 
it is supposed that Solomon built them for his Jewish 
wife, and that his idolatrous successors consecrated the 
one to the worship of the Sun. We ascended a high 
broken arch by a circular stairway within the wall, and 
crossed on its top, over the half-dropped-out keystone, to 
the adjoining walls of a gigantic loopholed tower, into 



152 LETTER V. 

which we entei'ed neai' its summit. A fine view was had 
from here, and a curious stone observed lying in the 
tower, covered with hieroglyphics. 

Returning to our lodgings, we hastened our departure, 
as it was nearly eleven o'clock, and as the weather, 
already rainy, threatened a bad day for our return. 
About a mile distant, we stopped to view the quaiTies 
which supplied the large stones for the walls alluded to. 
Here Ave saw a solid piece of stone hewn on its four sides, 
lying in its original bed, measuring 69 feet in length, 
17 wide, and 14 thick! Soon after leaving, we encoun- 
tered a sudden and severe storm of hail and wind, which 
broke my umbrella in pieces, earned my hat far into 
a field, and caused my horse to face about until the 
worst was over. Fortunately, I had with my mackintosh, 
a rubber cap with a cape, which effectually protected my 
head and neck. We proceeded on as fast as possible, 
meeting successive showers of mingled hail and rain, with 
wind, which came through the valley directly in our 
faces. The roads became wet and muddy, and El Adli, 
drenched to the skin and chilled, looked desponding. 
An extra coat was spared him, and a little artificial 
warmth administered, as well as to ourselves. 

I found the double suits of clothing I wore did me 
good service, though my face and hands suffered from 
the cold and hail. The mud in the valley road, which 
we had unfortunately taken as the shortest, became so 
soft, that for quite a distance our horses sank tip to 
their knees at every step. We finally reached an Arab 
village, where, in the only Christian hut of the place, we 
got shelter, were supplied with a little fire, and took our 



EETURN TO STOURA. 153 

lunch. Refreshed by an hour's rest, we continued our 
way, meeting gusts of wind with occasional showers from 
the two ranges of the Lebanon, over which dense clouds 
dispensed alternately on summit and valley, snow, hail, 
and rain. About five miles from Stoura, we ascended 
a hill on which is situated the large town of El Malaka, 
having extensive silk manufactories and a monastery. 
From here there is a good macadamized road built by 
a French company. Night approaching, and the weather 
looking worse, we urged our jaded horses to the utmost, 
and scarcely drew rein until we ainnved at the station- 
house of Stoura, where the room of the restaurant had 
been engaged for us. 

The French hostess and her pretty Arab waiter-girl 
served us with a hot dinner, and, with the pure Lebanon 
wine made here by our host, was a welcome repast. 
Nice clean sheets and comforters were spread on the 
divans for our night's repose, and although the storm of 
the evening previous was renewed with great fury, accom- 
panied by torrents of rain, we slept soundly. 

The morning came with fair weather and a bright sun, 
which we enjoyed while awaiting the arrival of our dili- 
gence at noon. About an hour before, a party of friends 
with their Dragoman and camp equipage arrived from 
Zableh, where they had encamped overnight from Baalbec, 
and experienced the bad weather. They were en route 
for Beyrout, and the three ladies were glad to accept our 
proffered vacant coupe in the diligence which we had 
engaged, and leave their horses and party to follow them. 
Our old places in the imperial, on the top of the vehicle, 
though exposing us to the cold on the summit of the 



154 LETTER V. 

mountain road, gave a splendid view, on our descent, of 
the Mediterranean, of Beyrout, and of the valley spread 
out before us. We arrived at half-past five o'clock, and 
■were glad to meet our party and numerous fi'iends at 
the hotel. 

Early the following day, we secured passages in the 
" Indus " for Smjaiia, to touch at Trij)oli, Latakia, 
Alexandretta, Mersina, and the Island of Rhodes. Our 
luggage was got in readiness and takeu to the steamer, 
which was to leave early in. the morning, obliging us to 
go on board the evening previous. The U. S. steamer 
" Canandaigua " arrived, and some of her ofl&cers dined 
at our excellent table cVhote, where thirty Americans, 
being a largq majority present, represented our glorious 
Republic. 

Having settled up accounts vs'ith our Dragoman, and 
given him and the servants and cook recommendations 
and presents, they all accompanied us on board, where 
they took an affectionate and sorrowful leave. The wai-m 
and generous heart of our faithful El Adli was melted to 
tears, and we all parted with regret from those who had 
contributed so much to our pleasure and comfort in Egypt 
and Syria for the last four mouths. The night w^as a 
beautiful one, and we slept soundly after retiring at a 
late hour, while our vessel remained at anchor. 

The morning of the 11th of April was a lovely one, and 
at an early hour we steamed away from this handsome 
port and town, passing along the coast with its fine 
mountain views. Our voyage of six days, most of which 
time we should be in port, pi'omiscd fairly. We arrived 
at Tripoli in four hours, where we remained a while,. 



ALEXANDRETTA. 155 

giving the passengers an opportunity to go ashore and 
see both the old and new town, the former having an 
extensive fortress. Latakia was reached next, about 
10 p. M., -where we anchored for the night. This town 
is celebrated for its export of a favorite tobacco for pipes, 
the best of which is the gebeleh. About 11 o'clock the 
next morning, with clear weather and a smooth sea, we 
left for Alexandretta, arriving there at sunset, which was 
a brilliant one. The large saloon of the " Indus " was 
enlivened in the evening with music on the piano, a flute 
accompaniment, and some dancing. 

Another beautiful day greeted us as we came on deck 
and found ourselves lying at a,nchor in the bay of Alexan- 
di'etta, at the extreme eastern part of the Mediterranean, 
and nearly encompassed by land, the water clear and 
smooth. The town is a mere hamlet, but steamers await 
here the arrival of the overland mail and specie from 
Aleppo and Bagdad. Cotton and nutgalls were added 
to the freight. While strolling ashore, the temperature 
and a fine beach invited a bath, which some of us enjoyed 
very much. A pleasant evening was spent on board, and 
our steamer remained here during the night. 

Our departure was delayed until 10 o'clock the day 
following, and with the receding shores of Alexandretta 
propei'ly ends our "Tour in Syria and Palestine." 

In conclusion,^ I will add that we were favored with 
fine weather during our voyage to Smyrna, from thence 
in another steamer to Constantinople, touching at Metelin 
(which had just been destroyed by an earthquake), and 

1 A few useful items belonging to the foregoing tour will be 
found, Avith others relating to Egypt, in the Appendix'. 



156 



LETTER V. 



after, from the Oriental metropolis in the fine steamer 
"Tibre" to Messina, touching at Piraeus, the port of 
Athens. In our short voyage by another steamer from 
Messina to Naples, we experienced the first rough sea 
since leaving Beyrout. Our visits to these interesting 
places were much enjoyed, but we found the middle of 
May too warm a period for Central Italy, and hastened 
our departure for Paris by way of Milan, Turin, and the 
Mont Cenis Pass, arriving in the latter part of the month 
at the gay capital, where the " R. W. L." party of the 
Nile and Holy Land commenced examining the wonders 
of the Great Paris Universal Exposition of 1867, remain- 
ing in that city until its close in November. The follow- 
ing winter and spring were spent in the South of France, 
Algiers, Portugal, and Spain. 




APPENDIX. 



USEFUL ITEMS OF INFORMATION FOR TRAVEL- 
LERS IN EGYPT. 

No 2^ciss2oorts are required after leaving Europe, but 
it is best to have one with you, as it identifies your 
nationahty in case of need. 

Money of any kind can readily be had from the bankers 
on whom you have ci'edits, and it is not necessary to take 
any more than for your expenses to Alexandria or Cairo. 
French and English gold is generally used (the former is 
preferable), and can always be exchanged for small silver 
money of the country, which is piastres and paras. A 
Napoleon is worth 97, and a sovereign 121 current pias- 
tres, varying according to the rate of .exchange. Prices, 
however, at all Government offices, including the railroad, 
are made in Egyptian silver piastres, which are worth 5 
paras more than the Turkish or current piastre, and only 
77 — 5 of these are given for the Napoleon, and 97 — 20 
for the pound sterling. They are worth 40 paras, and 
divided into ^, \, and ^ pieces. There are other coins 
current, such as the Austrian zwanziger, and Russian 
20 and 25 kopeck pieces. 



158 APPENDIX. 

Letters and 2)<^I>^'>'s should be sent to care of your 
banker in Cairo, who will forward them, according to 
the time you desire, by the Egyptian letter post. This 
is despatched by Ai'ab runners across the desert, and 
all letters and papers should be directed to care of the 
Consul at Thebes, so as not to run the risk of missing 
them at other towns on the river. 

For articles of clothing, the climate will suggest what 
ought to be taken, but dress suits, except a coat, are quite 
needless up the Nile. As little should be taken as possi- 
ble, the room in a boat not admitting of much luggage, 
without great inconvenience; neither will it be required. 
The following are most useful : A cloth travelling suit ; 
riding pants, or canvas leggings ; flannel shirts with or 
without collars ; j)aper collars (laundry arrangements are 
A'ery limited on board) ; a thick knit woollen vest, or 
short gilet de chasse, to be worn between the coat and 
ordinary vest ; a long dressing-gown ; a thin overcoat ; 
a light hat with broad brim covered with muslin (to be 
had in Cairo) ; a fez ; light shoes of canvas cloth (no 
thick boots are necessary unless duck-shooting is pur- 
sued away from the river, which is rarely done) ; a foot- 
warmer heated with hot water. 

For sporting : double-barrel breech-loading fowling- 
pieces, and a modern rifle, with equipments, to be 
bought with fixed ammunition in Loudon, Paris, or Mar- 
seilles, not omitting matei'ials for cleaning. 

A good field-glass, and colored glasses with wire pro- 
tectors for the eyes, should be bought in Paris or London ; 
a white umbrella with dark lining in Cairo. 

Flags of all kinds and pennants can be purchased or 



APPENDIX. 159 

made in Cairo. Hadkinson, an English tailor in the rear 
of the Esbekieh, and another one in the bazaar, will sup- 
ply them. The flags should be about 9 by 12 feet, and 
pennants from 30 to 60 feet in length, by 15 to 20 inches 
wide at the mast end, and tapered to a point. 

Wines and liquors it is best to purchase at Alexandria. 
Ebenezer Thomas has all kinds, and sells a pure and 
genuine article at a fair advance on the cost. Bordeaux 
and Marsala, mostly the former, are best for the Nile, 
although the w^ater of the river, filtered on board, is 
exceedingly palatable, and contains nothing deleterious 
to health. Some desirable articles mentioned in one of 
the letters can be purchased at Marseilles of J. S. Martin 
or his successors. 

Tea it is best to purchase in Europe. Should it not 
be done, select it for your Dragoman in Alexandria or 
Cairo. English butter must be bought in Alexandria. 

See that the Dragoman selects all the proper articles 
for the voyage with reference to kinds and quantities, 
about which the tastes of travellers differ so widely. 

Before selecting a boat, examine it well behind the 
wood casings, within the drawei's, and under deck, to 
ascertain whether it is free from a bad odor and vermin. 
Flies abound on the Nile, but only a few mosquitoes, 
and rarely any fleas in a clean boat. Nets, however, 
should be provided, and it is important to see that there 
is a good supply of blankets. A French lamp is very 
useful, and can be purchased in Cairo. See that. the best 
oil is furnished, with extra wicks and shades. 

Medicines can be obtained from an English apothecary 
at Cairo. Such rules of health as apply to a tropical 



1 60 APPENDIX. 

climate should be observed. Temperance in eating and 
drinking, especially strong alcoholic drinks, should be ob- 
served, avoiding a continued perspiration, wet clothes, a 
too long exposure to the night air, and sitting in a draught. 
A narrow belt, or a sash worn tightly around the waist 
beneath the clothing, is a good sanitary precaution against 
diseases of the bowels in warm climates. There are but 
few diseases in Egypt. Fevers are rare ; and diarrhoea, 
dysentery, and ophthalmia are the principal ones travel- 
lers on the Nile are liable to. 

But little money need be taken up the river, as only 
a few articles other than antiquities are to be purchased 
there. The novice in these must be on his guard against 
spurious scarabei, to be met with principally at Thebes. 
Mustapha Aga, the consul there, is a good judge of 
them. 

While ti'eating the Dragoman and servants with kind- 
ness, it is very important from the first to avoid a useless 
familiax'ity that sometimes breeds contempt of authority, 
and at all times assert your rights firmly. All orders 
not inconsisfcent with your contract should be obeyed by 
your Di'agoman, who engages himself as a servant, not 
as an equal in authority. Good discipline on board is 
essential for the enjoyment of the voyage. 

When there is more than one gentleman in a party 
equally interested, it is better to have one act as captain, 
by turns or otherwise. After deliberation and decision 
among the party on matters of the voyage, all wishes 
or orders can then be communicated through that officer. 

The hours of stopping which are made at the request 
and on account of the party should be noted down, and 



APPENDIX. 161 

a memorandum of the same given to the Dragoman for 
the Reis of the boat. 

Many opportunities can be had for shore excursions 
when the boat is tracking or otherwise unavoidably 
delayed, and several times on the upward and downward 
voyage while the crew stop to bake bread. These are 
not included in the time given in the contract for stop- 
pages. 

For steamers from Marseilles, Trieste, or Brindisi, for 
Alexandria, consult the latest guidebooks. 



ITEMS FOR A TOUR IN SYRIA AND 
PALESTINE. 

This tour can be made to the best advantage in the 
month of October, and the latter part of March, and the 
month of April. It is best to take tents from Jerusalem, 
if the desert route is avoided, and Jaffa is taken as the 
point of departure, where horses and guides can be had 
for the former city. Syrian Dragomans and Jewish 
local guides are preferable. They understand the coun- 
try and people better, by the same rule that applies to 
Egypt, where native Dragomans are to be preferred 
to foreign. Of course there are exceptions to this, and 
the traveller must be his own judge by the experience he 
meets with. 

Tents should be carefully examined before adopted, 
with reference to their quality, which should be water- 
proof or best English canvas, and the form of the roof, 
which should have eaves projecting to shed the rain 

11 



162 



APPENDIX. 



from the sides. They should be provided with clean car- 
pets, folding-chairs with backs, and portable washstands. 
Gimlets will serve a good purpose for hanging up clothes 
to the tent-poles. Pieces of oilcloth about 6 feet square 
for the ground, and smaller pieces for bundles of luggage, 
are very useful. Cheap portmanteaus can be bought in 
Alexandria for necessary luggage, and trunks containing 
other baggage can be left with the steamer's agents in 
Jaffa and Beyrout. 

Contract for good English side-saddles, if any are 
needed, and see that your others are comfortable and in 
proper order ; also try your horses before starting. 
Although there is now no danger to be apprehended, it is 
best to be provided with good fire-arms. Sporting guns 
will be only an incumbi-ance. 

Some of the foregoing items for Egypt relating to 
money, letters, pajDers, and clothing, it will be seen, 
apply to this journey. 

Note. — The new hotel in Cairo is now (November, 1867), 
opened, and a road is rapidly being built between Jaffa and Jeru- 
salem. 



APPENDIX. 163 



PROVISIONS OF THE "GAZELLE" FURNISHED 
BY THE DRAGOMAN. 

A Quarter of Beef at Cairo — Live Sheep — Turkeys 

— Geese — Chickens — Pigeons — Flour — Rice — Mac- 
aroni — Vermicelli ■ — ■ Potatoes — Beans — Lentils — 
Onions — Groats — Tapioca — Sago — Arrowroot — Oat- 
meal — Maizena — Dried Salt Cod Fish — English Hams 

— Smoked Tongues — Herrings — Cheshire and Dutch 
Cheeses — English Table Butter — Native Cooking But- 
ter — Split Peas — Eggs — Tea — Mocha Coffee — Choc- 
olate — Loaf Sugar — Sweet Biscuit — Hard Biscuit — 
Ginger Cakes — Sweet Cakes — Sugared Almonds — 
Honey — Dried Apricots — Dried Prunes. The following 
canned articles, — Sardines, Mock Turtle Soup, Green 
Peas, Beans, Cauliflower, Salsify, Champignons, Tomatoes, 
Concentrated Milk, Oysters, Mincemeat for Pies, English 
Plum-Puddings. Also the following kinds of Preserves 
in jars, — Scotch Marmalade, Raspberry, Strawberry, 
Greengage Plums, Red-Currant Jelly, Apricots, Damsons, 
Peaches. Four kinds of English Pickles — Essences — 
Curry Powder — Sweet Syrup — Oil — Mustard — Vinegar 

— Salt — Pepper — English Sauces — ■ Lemon Syrup — 
Raisins — Figs — Almonds — Walnuts — Oranges — 
Apples — Pears — Bananas — Fresh Vegetables in sea- 
son — Soap — Oil — Candles. 



164 APPENDIX. 



ARTICLES FUENISHED BY THE PARTY. 

60 tin Lanterns made in Cairo for illuminations. 

2 Brass Signal Lanterns with colored Globes. 

Oil and Candles for above — Flag, Pennants, and Hal- 
yards. 

Guns, Pistols, and Sporting Equipments. 

Drums and Tambourines for ci-ew ; Dusters for flies in 
boat. 

Fishhooks and Lines ; Shoe-brushes and Blacking. 

Guide and other Books, Maps, Measuring Tape, Compass, 
Thermometer. 



The following are very useful, and are seldom found 
on board, viz., — a Hammer, Chisel, small Saw, Files, 
Screwdriver, Gimlets, Pliers, Nails and Tacks, Screws, 
Cord and Twine, small Hooks for hanging up articles, 
extra Window-glass, Putty and Tins to set the same. 



Medicines, &c., best for the voyage, are : Rhubarb, 
Castor Oil, Seidlitz Powders, Quinine, Laudanum, Nitre, 
Diarrhoea Mixture, Essence of Peppermint, Brown's Es- 
sence of Ginger (Swann, No. 12, Rue Castiglione, Paris, 
is the agent). Cream of Tartar, Arnica, Liniment, Lint, 
Sticking Plaster, Ej-e-Wash. 

2l^=" See Notes for Third Edition, page 167. 



APPENDIX. 



165 



TEMPERATUEE IN THE SALOON OF THE DAHABEEH 
" GAZELLE " DURING 65 DAYS ON THE NILE. 



Date. 


Sunrise. 


2 P.M. 


8 P.M. 


Wind and Weather. 


1866-67. 


o 










Dec. 21 


65 


72 




calm and clear. 


" 22 


58 


65 


60 


S. breeze and clear. 


" 23 


56 






S.S.W. and cloudy. 


" 24 


56 


65 




same. 


" 25 


56 


65 




same. 


" 26 


60 






same and clear. 


" 27 


60 


75 


70 


N. breeze and clear. 


" 28 


50 


70 


^ , 


same. 


" 29 


50 


65 


68 


same. 


" 30 


54 


70 


69 


S.E. breeze and clear. 


" 31 


58 


70 


70 


same. 


Jan. 1 


62 


75 


70 


calm, clear. 


2 


60 




70 


N. breeze, clear. 


" 3 


45 




70 


foggy morning, same. 


" 4 


56 






N. breeze, same. 


5 


60 


70 


70 


calm and cloudy. 


6 


56 




65 


same. 


7 


64 


75 


70 


N. wind, partly cloudy. 


8 


56 


77 


70 


S. light and clear. 


" 9 


60 


79 


70 


N. same. 


" 10 


54 


75 




N. fresh and clear. 


" 11 


54 


77 




W. light and clear. 


" 12 


56 


75 


73 


calm and clear. 


" 13 


58 


73 




same. 


'< 14 


58 






same. 


" 15 


54 


80 


78 


same. 


" 16 


60 


78 




same. 


" 17 


68 


75 




same. 


" 18 


58 


78 




same. 


" 19 


58 


80 




N. fresh W. and clear. 


" 20 


62 


79 




calm and clear. 


" 21 


56 


80 




same. 


" 22 


56 


80 




same. 


" 23 


56 


80 


70 


same. 


" 24 


60 






strong S. wind and cloudy. 


" 25 


60 




70 


same. 



166 



APPENDIX. 



Date. 


Sunrise. 


2 P.M. 


8 P.M. 


Wind and Weather. 


1867. 





o 


o 




Jan. 26 


54 


68 


69 


Strong S. wind and cloudy. 


" 27 


50 


70 


65 


light N. wind, clear. 


" 28 


52 






same. 


" 29 


54 


78 


70 


slightly cloudy. 


" 30 


58 






N. wind, clear. 


" 31 


60 


79 


75 


calm and clear. 


Feb. 1 


52 




70 


same. 


" 2 


54 




70 


same. 


" 3 


60 


75 


70 


same. 


4 


58 


78 


72 


same. 


5 


60 


70 


68 


strong N. wind, clear. 


6 


56 






same. 


7 


54 




65 


same. 


8 


52 


75 


70 


same. 


9 


48 




65 


light N. wind. 


" 10 


47 




60 


same. 


" 11 


50 


68 


65 


variable and clear. 


" 12 


62 


62 




strong N. wind, clear. 


" 13 


50 




65 


same. 


" 14 


47 


75 


65 


light N. wind, clear. 


" 15 


45 




60 


fresh ditto, clouds. 


" 16 


46 


68 




moderate breeze, clear. 


" 17 


50 




70 


calm and clear. 


" 18 


52 


76 


65 


fresh breeze, clear. 


" I'J 


52 


74 


68 


calm and cloudy. 


« 20 


50 


70 


68 


calm, foggy, and breeze. 


" 21 


54 


70 


68 


calm, clear, and breeze. 


" 22 


52 




64 


S.W. wind, cloudy. 


" 23 


52 


66 




S.W. breeze, clear. 



Note. — The saloon in which the foregoing temperature was taken had no 
artificial warmth, and was always within 3 to 5 degrees of the heat in the shade 
outside. 



NOTES BY THE AUTHOR FOR THIS 
THIRD EDITION. 



The following works, published since the foregoing Letters 
were written, are recommended to the Mle traveller : — 

Egypt, by Mrs. Clement, published, in 1880, by D. Lothrop 
& Co., Boston. A concise illustrated history, ancient and 
modern, in a convenient-sized volume. 

Egypt as it is, by J. C. McCoan, published in England, 
1880, and a new edition in New York, by Dodd, Mead, & Co. , 
1882. This contains a vast amount of information by the 
writer, who made several visits to that country specially to 
collect statistical and other information not found in any 
other work, and in the collating of which he was assisted by 
several of the heads of departments of the Egyptian Govern- 
ment. A copious appendix gives some very valaable statis- 
tics of a late date. 

The splendidly illustrated work entitled Egypt, by Pro- 
fessor Georg Ebers, published in Leipsic, 1878, translated 
by Clara Bell, and published in London, Paris, and New 
York, 1881, in two large volumes, is a most valuable acquisi- 
tion for home use. 

Eau du Nil, by E. C. Hope Edwards, chronicles a tour in 
Egypt and voyage on the Nile by a party of three, in 1880. 



168 NOTES BY THE AUTHOR. 

This is from a journal written on the spot in an off-hand, 
pleasing manner. 

It may be stated, without egotism, that none of the fore- 
going books contain the practical information within a brief 
compass sought for to undertake a voyage in a Dahabeeh, 
though such a voyage has been far better described in the 
two last-named works than in my own. 

A railway is now in operation to Siout (Assiout), where 
there is a newly-opened hotel. 

Flags can be obtained in Cairo, also many things for the 
voyage not before kept in this progressive city, which has 
changed much within a decade, and become a fashionable 
winter resort, like Nice and other cities on the Mediter- 
ranean. 

Most of the Dahabeehs are of the same form as those in 
the days of the Pharaohs, unlike the model of the hull of 
the English-built " Gazelle," which gives more breadth pro- 
portionably to length, without diminishing the speed. Their 
internal arrangement of rooms, however, do not vary much 
from that of the "Gazelle," and some larger boats are 
furnished with upright pianos, rich silk draperies, &c. 

There are various ways of spelling some names of towns 
of Egypt by writers, without altering their sounds: Daha- 
6ee> is spelled Dahabeeyeh; Minieh, spelled Mineeyeh; Sioot, 
spelled Siout and Assiout ; Assouan with one s, &c. 

w. w. w. 

Boston, February, 1883. 




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